Radiator Issues

Steven Sochalski

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I bought my truck with this radiator. There are no brand marks, so I'm assuming chinese.

It's held up well in the year I've owned it. I've not had any close to overheating incidents and tow a large gooseneck horse trailer with living quarters and 2 horse straight load. We have a lot of hills here, and the truck get it done towing, just slowly.

Hope this helps.
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RSchanz

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I bought my truck with this radiator. There are no brand marks, so I'm assuming chinese.

It's held up well in the year I've owned it. I've not had any close to overheating incidents and tow a large gooseneck horse trailer with living quarters and 2 horse straight load. We have a lot of hills here, and the truck get it done towing, just slowly.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for sharing! I think the call might be trying something on the cheaper end and buying accurate after market gauges and keeping an eye on everything.
 

Gachris

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Don't know where you are but I have a radiator and an extra clutch fan if your interested and not too far away . I live in Woodbine ,ga
 

Gachris

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Steven Sochalski that aluminum radiator in picture you posted is a champion radiator . That's what I went to and it's been awesome
 

RSchanz

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Don't know where you are but I have a radiator and an extra clutch fan if your interested and not too far away . I live in Woodbine ,ga

shoot, I’m over in California. That’s kind of you to offer.

The champion radiator is only like $100-$150 more than the one I found on Amazon. I read elsewhere that someone was happy with that radiator. They had only run it for a year but seemed good to them so far
 

silexis

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Places I've had invisible coolant leaks on my truck that weren't from cracks/seam problems/holes in my radiator
Gasket under the cap.
Overflow tube at the fill neck
Heater hose on fitting at the exhaust manifold
Slow leaks on hoses on the inlet and outlet fittings despite (fixed by sealing with hylomar gasket sealant)
Leaks on the heater hose connections.
Switching to constant pressure spring loaded hose clamps solved a lot of problems.
For my excavator, I got a custom aluminum radiator made somewhere down south, (Georgia or Alabama?) and shipped in.
Seems stout and has held up well. It wasn't cheap ($1000?) but was by far cheaper than getting one from the Komatsu dealer.
I think they make 7.3 idi radiators, but if I remember right, they were also about $1000.
 

RSchanz

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Places I've had invisible coolant leaks on my truck that weren't from cracks/seam problems/holes in my radiator
Gasket under the cap.
Overflow tube at the fill neck
Heater hose on fitting at the exhaust manifold
Slow leaks on hoses on the inlet and outlet fittings despite (fixed by sealing with hylomar gasket sealant)
Leaks on the heater hose connections.
Switching to constant pressure spring loaded hose clamps solved a lot of problems.
For my excavator, I got a custom aluminum radiator made somewhere down south, (Georgia or Alabama?) and shipped in.
Seems stout and has held up well. It wasn't cheap ($1000?) but was by far cheaper than getting one from the Komatsu dealer.
I think they make 7.3 idi radiators, but if I remember right, they were also about $1000.

I noticed a small leak on the outlet hose. When I get the new radiator I'm going to re-do all the hoses and everything.


If I purchase this Champion radiator for my year and make do you think I can keep my fan?
 

renjaminfrankln

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I just bought a champion 3 row for my truck. Its in the garage. I will hopefully have it installed this week. It looks veryy similar to the one in the amazon link you posted earlier. Around $250 from jegs I think?
 

RSchanz

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I just bought a champion 3 row for my truck. Its in the garage. I will hopefully have it installed this week. It looks veryy similar to the one in the amazon link you posted earlier. Around $250 from jegs I think?

Any reason why you did 3 row instead of 4? I was looking at the 4 from champion.
 

RSchanz

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I've ordered a new Champion radiator that I'm expecting this week. I found this detailed article on flushing coolant:

https://www.dieselhub.com/maintenance/idi-coolant-flush.html

They claim I need to remove the thermostat to do a proper flush.

First, is that true?

Second, my cold high idle isn't working correctly. I've checked the wires that run to it to confirm that it does get power. The plunger never seems to push forward. I know this isn't a huge deal but could it be related to my Tstat being faulty? If I have to remove the thermostat housing to do a proper flush I figure I may as well replace the Tstat or switch now.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Before you buy another switch, clean the two prongs on the switch and maybe the spades inside the plug if you can. Sometimes, it's a bad connection and all you need to do is to unplug and plug it in a few times. It may not work, but at least it's way cheaper than a new switch.
 

RSchanz

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Before you buy another switch, clean the two prongs on the switch and maybe the spades inside the plug if you can. Sometimes, it's a bad connection and all you need to do is to unplug and plug it in a few times. It may not work, but at least it's way cheaper than a new switch.

I tried unplugging and replugging but I didn't clean them. I'll take some alcohol to the prongs and I'll trace the wires a bit and see if anything looks suspicious.

Do you know if I have to remove the thermostat housing in order to flush the coolant properly?
 

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