Question on Timing

[bilbo]

I recently acquired a 1994 F250. Normally when I get something it sits until I've had a chance to really look everything over. It doesn't take me long with a gasoline engine as I kind of know what to look for and where to adjust it. However, this is my first diesel and while I know the basic concept and locations of major components, my expertise ends there. From the sips I've taken from the fire hose so far I've gathered the fuel system and timing is the most important (and for me least understood) aspect. I'm working on a pinging problem on my other truck (an 83 Ranger) and have been using this until I get that sorted. I'm worried about something being damaged due to ignorance. The truck has 277k miles and was owned by a company that used it for transporting stuff to trade shows. It's 2wd with a 5 speed manual transmission. It looks well taken care of and seems to sound and drive ok. Is there anything I should be checking that's extremely important right away? A big worry was coolant additive. The person I bought it from drove it but the shop's maintenance guy maintained it and thus couldn't say whether coolant additive was used or what type. Is there a way to check without knowing what type was used?

I read about the life span of fuel pumps, and if mine's original it's definitely in its winter years. Is there a way to estimate its age/wear?

Once I get to really dig into it I'd like to check timing more thoroughly. I've read about as things wear timing retards; is this a huge concern for engine damage? There seem to be other settings on the pump for things like varied advance throughout engine load range. I'm its goals are similar to the vacuum advance on a distributor but where is it?

Sorry if these are basic questions already covered somewhere. I tried searching but don't really know what I'm looking for, which is probably why I'm not finding much. I appreciate any advice and expertise offered up!

--Edit to add--The title doesn't really reflect the post; I typed that before I figured the rest out and never went back to change it. It should probably just read 'Questions.' sorry about that.

 

[Farmer Rock]

If the truck has 277k miles I am assuming the injection pump and injectors have been replaced along the line.So if it's running good now,the timing was probably set right when the injection pump was replaced.Even if the timing was slightly retarded it wouldn't do any damage,but I would suggest you don't mess with the timing,unless you have a problem,or are changing the pump.If they can't say for sure if SCAs were used,then that means they didn't use them.The best thing to do is add the SCAs and it wouldn't hurt to flush the coolant before you do that.As for the fuel pump,you can test the psi coming out of it,which should be 4-6 psi.


Rock

 

[MtnHaul]

Welcome to the site.
If you're worried about the coolant you could either just drain and replace it with fresh Fleetcharge which already has SCAs added, or buy some coolant test strips which will indicate the presence or absence of SCAs.

As to timing it is best to have it timed with the appropriate timing meter. Perhaps there is a member nearby who can help with that. But if the engine starts easily hot or cold, has consistent idle, and no excessive smoke then the timing should be at least OK.

At 277k there might be things like vacuum pump, water pump, and brake booster that are getting old if they haven't been replaced already. I bought mine with 300k and in short order replaced the above mentioned items as well as master cylinder and all brake hardware. Check things like grounds and battery connections for excessive wear/degradation. Poor connections can strain and shorten the life of your starter.

Good luck with the new rig.

 

[krogo]

There will be far more people with far more knowledge answer you but here is my contribution.

One of the first things I do getting a "new to me" vehicle is to do what I like to call a 'Stage 0."
Change all fluids, replace all common consumables, etc..

Completely agree with @MtnHaul on coolant. Test it and if needed change it with Fleetcharge, OR Stage 0 the cooling system with Fleetcharge and a new Thermostat.

Timing is one of those things that is very important and not so important at the same time. As @MtnHaul stated, if she's starting and running ok, you're in the ballpark.
If the pump is truly original, the timing has certainly drifted, the cost of which is power, high egt, smoke, etc... The only thing that could cause real damage is High EGT or a leaking injector causing piston erosion.

"Hive Mind" says if your pump is truly original, it's "done", they don't just stop working, they die a very slow death. But I'm agreeing with @Farmer Rock that it's likely been replaced along the way along with the injectors. Add those to the Mystery list, you'll likely never know.

Remember, the principals are the same, Suck, Squish, Bang, Blow, and these things use archaic technology so if a Englishman in the 50's could dream the fuel system up, these days there should be no mystery.
Enjoy the journey, it can be truly entertaining.

 

[Farmer Rock]

Also if you are looking for preventive maintenance tips,like krogo said,change all fluids and filters,then if you want to,buy a return line kit,change belts and hoses,grease everything,check glow plug system,and my favorite thing to do with "new to me" diesel equipment,is fill up the fuel tank with 40% kerosene to 60% diesel (do this before you change the fuel flter),then run it really good,this will give the entire fuel system a deep clean from the tank to the injectors.The reason you do this without changing the filter is because all the junk that the kerosene cleans out,will end up in the filter,so you will have to change it.


Rock

 

[krogo]

Speaking of return lines, BE CAREFUL...

If the truck starts "quickly" right now and the lines or caps aren't leaking, Don't touch them, like literally, do not touch them, not even a wiggle. Even "Booping" them can break a seal that's held for years.
Return lines are a source of Ford IDI consternation. If you plan to replace your pump and injectors at any point, THAT would be the time.

 

[Farmer Rock]

Speaking of return lines, BE CAREFUL...

If the truck starts "quickly" right now and the lines or caps aren't leaking, Don't touch them, like literally, do not touch them, not even a wiggle.
Return lines are a source of Ford IDI consternation. If you plan to replace your pump and injectors at any point, THAT would be the time.

I won't argue that the return lines are real finicky,but personally I rather take the time to replace the return lines,caps,and orings then leave everthing alone,only to go out one morning to start my truck,and it won't start due to air intrusion.But that's just me


Rock

 

[bilbo]

Thanks for the advice! Are the coolant test kits universal? And are the SCAs themselves able to be mixed?

I like the 'Stage 0' name, that about sums it up. It does start quickly, within half a second or so and it's running, but it's always been plugged in. Temps in the 20s so not all that cold, but I remember the diesels at work through the years and my Father in law's pickup did not care for cold at all. This weekend, when I don't 'need' it to start, I'll try starting it without the block heater after an overnight sit. I do have a set of Motorcraft glow plugs to put in. I don't like the thought of those expanding and getting stuck, leaving pieces in cylinder, etc. so I think I'll 'Stage 0' that right away since I have the parts.

 

[MtnHaul]

On the touching of the return lines all I can say is I did once cause myself a big leak when I accidentally disturbed a return line that had probably been in place for at least 50k based on POs receipts. I actually carry a spare return line kit in the center console just in case. The rubber lines become rigid over time and sort of form to a given position and if disturbed won't have enough flex to keep a tight seal. My .02

 

[MtnHaul]

If you have difficulty removing the old plugs I suggest a liberal dose of penetrating oil and gently twist the plug back and forth to work the oil into the threads. If you can't break it free initially then soak the plug in penetrating oil and be patient.

 

[krogo]

The Glow Plug system is very straight forward. It contains no wizards nor unicorns.
I only plug mine in if we are expecting significant snow as the coolant convection through the heater core automatically keeps the windshield clean.
I've never had an issue starting Queso even in Sub 0 temperatures only on the Glow plugs.

There are alot of other factors beyond the glow plug system that affect cold starting. Injection Pump health, Injector Health, Battery health, Starter Speed, those darn return lines, Fuel Gelling and as @MtnHaul stated all the 25 year old electrical connections.

 

[bilbo]

One other question, I’ve confirmed the fast idle solenoid is bad. It won’t fire with 12v applied directly. Where can I get another one? And where is the cold timing advance solenoid?

--Edit--I might have one I can adapt from the Ranger. When I changed to a different carb I didn't use the anti-diesel solenoid. Maybe I can get that to work...

 

[bilbo]

Thanks for the tips and boost of confidence on the glow plugs! We will see how they go this weekend. I will hit them with some Kroil over the next couple of days.

 

[krogo]

And where is the cold timing advance solenoid?

There ya go.

Can't find a source for the High Idle Solenoid currently. Might be a scrap yard run.
Another thing to note, is the High idle solenoid won't self set. You need to depress the throttle after key-on and the solenoid will latch.

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[krogo]

Ohh, And when you replace the glow plugs, make sure you goop the threads with some anti-seize and torque to 12 lbf⋅ft