Pyrometer install questions

bj58

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WoW 64,
I will not see that for a few more months. Well maybe late October.
at 6am when I checked the news they said the temp was 88.

I mounted the probe last night in the same place.
I hope to finish it up tonight.
 

Mikerson

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Did you drill from the top or the bottom?

I hope the rest goes smoothly for you. Good luck.
 

bj58

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The bottom
I wanted to put it just before the down pipe, but could not get the drill in there.
I do not like the idea of splitting the cylinders for the probe. It seams to me that this would dump the heat right on top of the probe and give a higher reading.
But I also understand that's were the problem area is. (not 6 inches down the pipe)
I guess I played devils advocate with myself. In the end it was easer to just split the cylinders.
 

bilbo

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I’m thinking on doing this. I gather the easiest place to put the probe is the bottom. I always thought putting things in the bottom was bad due to moisture. Is that not much of a concern here?

Also, why is it preferred to be between the back two cylinders? Wouldn’t the temp be similar coming out of any of the cylinders?
 

IDIBRONCO

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I’m thinking on doing this. I gather the easiest place to put the probe is the bottom. I always thought putting things in the bottom was bad due to moisture. Is that not much of a concern here?

Also, why is it preferred to be between the back two cylinders? Wouldn’t the temp be similar coming out of any of the cylinders?
I think the back two cylinders are just easier to get to while the manifold is on the engine inside the truck. As for the moisture, since we're talking about something that's mounted directly into the exhaust, fairly close to the head, I think that the temperatures that it sees would eliminate the moisture before it becomes a problem.
Wes told me that instead of putting it in the manifold itself, he likes to use a weld in bung right in the pipe itself below the flange that bolts to the manifold. He told me that he's broken a few manifolds by trying to drill and tap them so he stopped doing that. To me, it also seems like that would be easier than trying to drill and tap an exhaust manifold.
 

bilbo

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Thank you. I read somewhere in here about the bung on the pipe. I like that idea better as it seems less risky. I will have to look into where it would be easiest to put it in. If it doesn’t work out I can just plug it.
 

bilbo

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Here is where I think we are talking about, with the bund coming out at about this angle. But I see no way of welding the bung anywhere up there without removing the exhaust pipe, assuming I want it as close as possible to the manifold. I could take the pipe loose but the flange further down is pretty crusty and I don’t want to disturb it.

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Scotty4

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I removed mine, not too much of a pain. The studs actually came apart easy but the exhaust clamp broke, dime a dozen at the parts store.
 

Randy Bush

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When I rebuilt my 93 turbo I put it in the pipe right after the turbo. Now one of these days need to finish hooking it up.
 

IDIBRONCO

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When I rebuilt my 93 turbo I put it in the pipe right after the turbo. Now one of these days need to finish hooking it up.
That's fine, but, from what I've read on here, you need to add 300* to your pyro reading to get the accurate temperature. I don't really like math well enough to keep doing it all the time. That's why I had Wes weld a bung into my crossover pipe when I sent it off to have him get it Cerakoted.
 

bilbo

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I think the studs will come apart fine due to the constant soaking in oil they've received for God knows how long. But back further under the passenger side there's a flange that looks old, cantankerous, set in place and unwilling to yield to my desire to move it so I can put the bung in. I'll give it a shot and see if I can get enough movement to access what I need with the welder without stressing that joint too much.

Also, my engine is NA so no before/after turbo to worry about. But I agree with IDIBRONCO, if the temperature in the cylinders is what's important, that's what should be measured. If it can't be measured directly, then get as close as possible. I would think the energy exchange that happens in a turbo would be nonlinear, and so the 300 degree offset may not even be a good approximation in some conditions.
 

MtnHaul

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Drilling and tapping the manifold while in the truck ain't that hard. I managed to do it and it was literally the first time I'd ever tapped threads--I'm sure a brand new tap and drill bits helped. No problems several years later. N/A so didn't have to worry about shavings getting into the turbo. Just be patient, start with a small hole, and use some lube.
 

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