Pyro hook up

[argve]

No need to be embarrased it's just that I have a degree in elektronics and I currently work in industrial maintenace because I like to pull wrenches so I work with thermocouples almost on a daily basis

now for recommending gauges. Get what you like. I always liked the ISSPRO's because they had in my opinion the best looking gauge out there reminded me a lot of newer OEM stuff pointers lighted up, numbers lit up but no halo effect, plus they used the 4-20ma system which meant that I could get an electrical gauge that had a 270° sweep of the needle just like a mechanical set up.

But I see where Autometer has come out with some pretty neat looking ones as well I really like the look of the Cobalt series I think it's called - it's the one that lights up a soft bluish glow at night - very cool in my opinion.

I really don't think you can go wrong with any of the big hitters these days - well other than the cheapie ones that hang on the shelf in Autozone and the like (sunpro or whatever that brand is).

Biggies these days are...

Autometer,
Westach
Isspro
VDO (I used to work in the factory that made these gauges) they have some neat styles out as well - good quality gauge for not much money but not a lot of diesel type gauges.


Now for the boost gauge - there is no need to get one that reads 60psi - heck you'll never get that high... I think you will find that you will have to take at least 15psi but that's fine because most IDI's pump out 12~13 max once you twist the wick on them...

 

[rancherman84]

yep,i work in a ag shop everyday but dont fool much with pyrometers.
checked mine today to and found the thermocoupler good and the gauge good but the wires between them are bad.
i cut the bad spot out of the wire and installed two new ends,hooked everything up and nothing worked
next question,do the wires have to be a certain length to get a correct reading on the gauge,and are the wires them selves special?
the banks wires(red & yellow) have tin foil around them and a seperate piece of copper wire.can i make my own wires between the cuopler and gauge or do i need the banks one?
my banks boost gauge only goes to 20,i have one that goes to 30 and the new one from banks(read my got luckey post )goes to 50 i think

 

[argve]

Yes you have to have thermocouple wire not just any ole wire will work. The reason is because a thermocouple works on the principle of how two dissimilar react. Lenght of wire is not a concern unless your going to run the wire from your engine to around your rear tail light then back up to the dash, that length of wire will be too much for the little junction to push the electrons through.

The reason for the tin foil is to insulate the voltage and current signal produced at the junction from stray electrical signals created under the hood. We have to remember that a thermocouple lead only creates a mili-volt signal so it's real easy to walk all over it.

Sell that 50psi boost gauge to a PSD, Cummins or Duramax owner we can use a gauge that reads that high - an IDI will never survive for long with that kind of boost (too high of compression to start with).

 

[rancherman84]

thanks argve,that clears things up,i will call banks and ask how much vaseline i will need to use when buying that item,i guess i'll have to break down and buy the new y-pipe as well,i know i need alot of vaseline for that baby $350.00 banks does nice work but there prices are
i know about the boost levels on our(well not yours) IDI's.maybe i should try to swap that gauge for part payment on the y-pipe.

 

[The Warden]

i know about the boost levels on our(well not yours) IDI's.

Actually, I think that overboosting the engine is one of the few sins that Travis didn't commit with his IDI

I think there's only one guy on here who's nuts enough to routinely overboost his IDI (assuming everything's accurate)...

 

[argve]

I over boost for one trip of 20 miles. I pinched off the boost line to see what effect it would have. I found out real quick that anything over about 12~13 psi nets you only more heat and nothing more on the butt-o-meter (this is with a banks sidewinder system) which told me I was over running the turbo.