pulling motor ?

pauls painting

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:thumbsup: taking tomorrow off to pull 6.9 out of 85 f250 parts truck. any hints on how to get the beast out? pull front clip off make it easier? any help will be appreciated. should i put a new oil pump in before i put her in my 94?oil cooler o rings? will the water pump off of 7.3 fit 6.9 ? can i use serp belt system with 6.9?:hail :hail
 

icanfixall

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Be sure you get a motor lift that can handle the 1100 lbs. I use the 2000 lb lifts. Everything that bolts to the outside of the 6.9 will bolt to the 7.3. If you are pulling the pan may as well do the rods and mains just because your in that deep. How many miles are on the motor? Yes, its a very good time to replace the oil cooler o0rings. You will never have an easier time or place to do it. Most engine stands will not handle the weight of these motors. I have a 2000 lb stand and had to modify the brackets so it would bolt up to the rear of the motor. They did fit but it was not a good factory fit. Thats why I made other arms. Remove the cover on the oil pump. If you can get a .004 thousands feeler gage between the gears its time to replace the oil pump. Otherwise just run it.
 

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When I removed the 6.9 from my 1985, all I did was take off the hood and lay the A/C out of the way.

I left the clutch attached and it came up and out OKAY; but, if I were to do it again, I would remove the clutch, just to give it a few more inches.

I also removed the radiator and fan/clutch.

Don't trust a cherry-picker.

Use a fork-lift, big farm-tractor/loader, or an over-head chain-hoist on a A-frame.

 

madcj8

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Has anyone tried pulling the whole cab/front clip assembly off like the newer superduties? I was toying with this idea because im looking at replacing the motor on it soon. The two major reasons why i want to try this is because it is TIGHT behind that turbo, and I have access to a lift
 

Agnem

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I don't see why you couldn't do it if you have the body lift available. That's the way they built them in the factory.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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If you only want the engine out and back in, I wouldn't remove the front-clip, as it's removal is WAY more work than simply pulling the engine.

The only reason I would remove the clip would be to do frame repair/restoration work.

These model trucks are quite a chore to even swap a fender, let alone pull the clip.
 

madcj8

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Well i was going to tidy up the downpipe and probably put new bearings in the transmission while i was at it, along with a few other piddly things(secondary oil cooler, fuel cooler, Baldwin oil bypass filter, finish drilling another set of bolt holes for the zf swap i did years ago). Im good friends with the employees at the Auto Hobby shop that we have here on base, so finding help isnt a problem.

But at bare minimum, I would say pull the hood and radiator.
 

icanfixall

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Removing the hood is not really needed but it will help with the height lift. If you leave all the front clip on the truck you will need to remove the starter and oil filter because they will hit the cross member under the oil pan. Boy... I sure can't seem to hit the correct keys today.....
 
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MIDNIGHT RIDER

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If you leave all the front clip on the truck you will need to remove the starter and oil filter because they will hit the cross member under the oil pan.


Truck year models will differ; but, on my 1985 F-350, the oil-filter and starter both remained with the engine as it came up and out.

On a few seconds of thinking about this, though, I do have a two-inch body-lift that probably made the difference.

It is amazing how much a mere two inches makes everything about the truck easier to access and work on.

The body-lift is one modification that I recommend as the first change made to a truck, before doing anything else; as, it makes everything else ever done in the future SO much easier.

It is amazing how much clearance I have above such things as bell-housings, transmissions, and the like.
 

towcat

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Has anyone tried pulling the whole cab/front clip assembly off like the newer superduties? I was toying with this idea because im looking at replacing the motor on it soon. The two major reasons why i want to try this is because it is TIGHT behind that turbo, and I have access to a lift
been there done that:D
I had a problem pulling the turbo off the '92 CC so I unbolted the steering column, the brake master and 4 body bolts. opened the doors and ran a short nylon choker around the "B" pillar and lifted the body with a cherry picker. Cut four blocks off a 4x4 and set them between the frame mounts and the cab and set the cab back down on them. That operation and pulling the radiator support made life a whole lot easier for me;Sweet
note... first two pics details the turbo area with the body lifted and blocked, the third pic is the body remounted.
 

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madcj8

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oh yeah, wow i am definitely going to do that then. Ill post pictures when i get around to it, that damn jeep takes up all my time
 

tonkadoctor

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been there done that:D
I had a problem pulling the turbo off the '92 CC so I unbolted the steering column, the brake master and 4 body bolts. opened the doors and ran a short nylon choker around the "B" pillar and lifted the body with a cherry picker. Cut four blocks off a 4x4 and set them between the frame mounts and the cab and set the cab back down on them. That operation and pulling the radiator support made life a whole lot easier for me;Sweet
note... first two pics details the turbo area with the body lifted and blocked, the third pic is the body remounted.

YIKES........Towcat, it looks like you are about ready to graduate to the dark side......where's the engineLOL
 

towcat

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YIKES........Towcat, it looks like you are about ready to graduate to the dark side......where's the engineLOL
tonkadoc-
it's only going to get worse this weekend:eek:
I'm working on relocating the fuel filter in prep for the intake system I am building. Also, I have a Racor CCV4500 that I've decided to mount in the engine compartment. It's really going to be awful in there soon enough-cuss-cuss-cusscookoocookoo:D
 
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