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Project Queso

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by krogo, Jul 30, 2020.

  1. aggiediesel01

    aggiediesel01 Full Access Member

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  2. krogo

    krogo Registered User

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    Thanks! I'll check it out.
     
  3. krogo

    krogo Registered User

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    Friday off update:

    Finished all of the fuel related plumbing.
    Mounted the Front Tank.
    Started the wiring modifications for the transfer system.

    Follow along!!
    IMG_20200814_143536487.jpg

    I snipped off the FSV connector.
    The Yellow/Light Blue and Yellow/White wires were bonded.
    The Dark Blue/Yellow and Brown/White wires were bonded.
    I added a length of wire to the Red wire.
    IMG_20200814_154952533.jpg

    I slipped everything into the factory harness convolute.
    The Red wire exits the factory harness where the rear tank pickup and tone ring pickup wires exit.
    I added a 2 pin Deutsch connector between the harness and the transfer pump for easy service.

    IMG_20200814_163910481.jpg

    Adding to mess already in the cab, I pulled the gauge cluster.
    I depopulated the Fuel Selector switch connector.
    The two browns and two Reds are spliced somewhere up the harness.
    The Remaining Red and Black are Positive Keyswitch and Ground.

    IMG_20200814_144802805.jpg

    The Two reds will be trimmed to One Red. This is now the circuit that runs back to the transfer pump. This wire will land on a relay in a project box that contains the controls.
    The two browns will be trimmed to one brown. This is now the front tank sender signal wire and will land in the project box.
    I somehow didn't get a picture, but the Yellow/White wire that goes to the factory fuel gauge was cut and a length of wire added to each side. These will also land in the project box.
    The Keyswitch and ground will also end up in the project box as well.
     
    Thewespaul likes this.
  4. lotzagoodstuff

    lotzagoodstuff Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    Very nice and well documented ;Sweet

    Are you duplicating two or three sets of these? If you aren't you should as I think there's going to be some folks who will want to duplicate your system.
     
    Danielle likes this.
  5. Thewespaul

    Thewespaul Supporting Vendor Supporting Member

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    That’s what I said. Very neat alternative to the factory selector switch mess.
     
  6. krogo

    krogo Registered User

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    I shall ponder the idea of "extras".

    In the meantime, Some more photos.

    The Yellow/White (Rear Sender Signal) wire cut and extended.
    My harnessing days prevent me from NOT twisting signal wires.
    IMG_20200815_113938335.jpg


    All the extensions fabbed.
    IMG_20200815_113948763.jpg

    Wires sheathed and pulled under dash. Awaiting Connector.
    IMG_20200815_115144767.jpg

    Plumbing shots. Front Tank. Factory Return capped. Factory Supply feeds Transfer pump.
    I'm awaiting a filter sock for the pickup rather than the shower head. We'll see how that works in the long run.
    IMG_20200815_120013226.jpg

    Transfer Pump. Rear Tank. Factory Return in Factory location. Factory Supply is now inlet from transfer pump.
    IMG_20200815_120033930.jpg

    Final note: Leak tested the fuel system today, none found. The Deatchworks pump is "Quiet" enough that the rattle of the engine drowns it out easily. She fired right up, even though I didn't "Prime" the system at all. Keep in mind, I've had the fuel system disassembled from the filter head down for weeks. I'm happy with the results.

    I think I shall weld the factory mirror holes and dumb B & C pillar handle holes up with the remainder of the day.
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2020
  7. krogo

    krogo Registered User

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    Weekend update,

    Pulled the front end off.
    Removed radiator, trans cooler, condenser.
    Removed, in pieces, Core support. Didn't realize how bad it was, only the Fenders were holding it on. Might explain why the headlights needed to be aimed weird to get a decent pattern.
    Removed all engine accessories.
    Pulled Exhaust, starter. yada yada...

    You don't need a play by play... I pulled the engine.
    Bent the excrement out of my old engine stand backer arms. Looking for a new stand now.
     
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  8. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    Yep. We can't go cheap on engine stands. You'll need at least a 1000lb stand to hold up. I have a 1200lb stand that I bought for $80 form Sam's club back in the late 1990's and it still works great.
     
  9. krogo

    krogo Registered User

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    Tis a sad day. I had hoped this stand would work. I've had a turbo 2.3, 4.6, 5.4, 240 & 300 I6's, OHC 3.0, 460 and (gasp) GM 327 & 350 hanging off her. I was convinced that after the 300 I-6, nothing could damage it, yet the IDI was too much. I have shed my tear, time to move on.
     
  10. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    The 460 was probably heavier than the 300-6 and neither of them compare to our IDIs. The closest gas engine that I've had experience with that would probably be the closest was an IHC 345. It easily folded up a 750Lb. engine stand.
     
  11. krogo

    krogo Registered User

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    Ended up having to order a stand. None could be found locally.

    Ordered a 2000lb stand from Jegs September 1. Somehow, delivered September 2.

    The Box wasn't damaged from shipment. I opened the box. Missing 2 of the 6 casters. Missing ALL of the hardware. Missing the Turning Plate/Head.

    Called Jegs September 2. Told "Oops, That happens sometimes, Parts will ship tomorrow."
    Nothing happened September 3, 4, 5 and 6th.
    Shipment notification September 7.
    Parts finally arrive September 9.
    WTH....

    Have the engine mounted and started stripping it today.
    Heads are off, gasket surfaces cleaned, all head bolt threads chased in the block.
    Bores look good, just a hint of the factory hone left.

    Heads look good. Just getting them cleaned up now.

    The passenger side of the engine looks like it was running hotter. Valves look like they were hotter as do the precups.
    Nothing alarming, Just hotter. Once I've got the heads fully torn down I'll inspect and make a call at that point.
    I suspect the factory exhaust is to blame. I'm sure the way they just tag the passengers side into the exhaust at a 90° angle really helps with scavenging...o_O

    Last weekend I spent tidying up the engine bay a tad. I rolled the factory firewall lip over in preparation of a turbo downpipe. An air palm nailer with the nail guide removed, works wonders.
    Just don't get your hand between the trans and the hammer and have it fire. :eek: That hurts, a LOT.

    Sorry, no pictures. I have no excuse, there just aren't any. I suck.
     
  12. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    :wtf:-Lame:joker:
     
  13. krogo

    krogo Registered User

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    Correction...
    Heads looked good at first glance.

    Flatness is good, no warping.
    Valve guides are good, no slop (haven't measured yet).
    Intake valves are good, no noticeable wear and good pattern.
    IMG_20200913_163318695[1].jpg

    Exhaust valves are no good. Major wear on the valve face in the form of an deep groove.
    Patterning has the contact at the margin and at most 0.020" wide.
    IMG_20200913_163337417[1].jpg


    Investigation begins.

    Good news from the bottom end, Pistons, rods, crank etc.. are all minty.
    Bearings show wear but nothing extraordinary, will be replaced anyhow.
    IMG_20200913_163356251[1].jpg
     
  14. IDIBRONCO

    IDIBRONCO IDIBRONCO

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    Good idea. There will never be a better time.:Thumbs Up
     
    Danielle likes this.
  15. krogo

    krogo Registered User

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    Alright, need opinions. I'm in it this far, things have happened. This project is already way behind schedule and over budget.

    Should I just do the Typ4 cam?
    I spoke to @Thewespaul about it months ago when I hadn't planned on going this far and the concensus was "Nah". Perhaps opinions have changed.

    Let the hive mind project meddling commence!
     
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