Project: BTB

[HS108]

Thanks Laser,

Ya, I just got to focus and keep trucking. I have a pregnant wife at the house, which doesn't help in the stress dept lol

I am going over tomorrow, and im gonna finish the turbo and exhaust install. I'm bringing in a buddy to help me exclusively , as there is other projects going on in the same garage im working in which delays progress on my truck from me constantly rubber necking over to the jeep lol

Questions:

First: Can I install the pyro thermo coupler in the exhaust and not have power to it without ruining it?

Second:
Can I install my water temp sensor in this port located on the drivers side head with the square top?

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[DaveBen]

The answer to your first question is YES you can put the thermocouple in the Exhaust Manifold and no power until you need the gauge (Key On).

 

[laserjock]

The thermocouple does not require power to work. The gauge may. The thermocouple is a junction of two different metals that creates a voltage. That voltage varies with temperature. The probe could care less if it is hooked to anything.

The water temp sender can go there but generally, people like to put it up in the stock location as the water has been all the way through the head at that point. There is another thread going on that mentions that. I moved my dummy gauge from the port on the front of the engine to a hole in the head and put my autometer sender in it's place.

 

[HS108]

Thanks, I know they say O2 sensors are bad to leave in if no voltage to them, so I was thinking about installing the pyro, but not hooking up the gauge right away, but I bought a plug for the hole, so I'm gonna drill and tap it. Then install the pyro later.

I too saw the thread and saw that the stock location is the best balanced. I am going to use the stock port for my gauge, and move the dummy one to the other port

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[HS108]

Day 4

Turbo is super close to being mounted, I clearanced the firewall As best I could, mounted the drain casting, and finished off my header wrap with the clamps

It's going to be a tight fit in there with the down pipe that's for sure, I had to adjust the hot sides clocking as it was a little off, but I was able to bolt it down and adjust the hot side so it should be good to go.

I attempted to mount the Turbo with the upper downpipe attached, but I do not think that is going to work

I now need to clock the cold side my plan is to leave the cold side loose inserted into the Turbo snail to ensure accuracy

Header wrap on up pipe finished off

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Starting to clearance the FW

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Used a nice duck bill spreader to fold it like butter

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Finished product, almost looks factory, I may need to go more, but didnt want to cut into the V past the pinch seam

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[typ4]

Is the turbo you removed available?

 

[HS108]

Yes I will have 2 turbos available. After this project, one off the running truck, one in need of a good overhaul.

I'll contact ya if you want them


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[HS108]

I offer discounts for help on working on my projects.... air fares are cheapish lol

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[typ4]

I do.

 

[HS108]

Day 5 update

TURBO IS IN

After many test fits I was able to get the turbo mounted, I tried with the DP attached, no DP, bolts already in under the elbow, etc etc. I finally had to remove the elbow, and some on the header wrap, install the turbo and drain. Then bolt back on the elbow, and redo the wrap. It should come out much easier if I ever have to do this again!!! I drilled the flange on the turbo and used 3/8 stainless hardware to bolt it down. Made life SOOO much easier. I can deff recommend the turbo install kit Russ (typ4) sells, I used every part out of it!

The firewall has a good clearance all around, Id say about 1/4 inch on all side from the downpipe, so hopefully no rattle. I still have to attach the exhaust, and will have to prob cut and change the angle at the tail end of the DP, but no big deal.

Next step is finish off the exhaust, then start on moving the fuel filter and making a new intake pipe. I want to delete the stock intake, and route it to the passenger side.

I still plan on chipping away on this project, I want to get the gauges installed, and maybe hydro boost as well. I feel that the hardest part is out of the way now.

Now for the pics.

Picture of the turbo mounted finally

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Close up of the wicked wheel in there, man its a snug fit, that's for sure!!

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View of the DP clearance, man that duck bill spreader made it look so clean and factory.

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A little snug to this trans line, may wrap that to protect it a bit

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[Danielle]

Love this thread!

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[HS108]

Thanks for awhile I felt as if I was just posting it for my own sake lol

I got the exhaust 95% installed yesterday, not a big fan of these diamond eye kits. I know it's cheap but they didn't even paint the clamps, and the clamps ain't clamping jack squat really


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[79jasper]

Pretty sure mine were stainless.
But I dislike those style clamps anyways. I like the band clamp first, then the accuseal style second. Both will let you remove the pipe later.

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[HS108]

Mine were unpainted mild steel

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[HS108]

Update:

Oil feed line is installed, Exhaust is in, and truck is running.


I went with the braided stainless oil line from Russ, Im not sure why, but my crossover pipe was blocking me from putting the 90 degree fitting directly in the block, so I had to get a bit creative. I was able to make an extension pipe to push the elbow out into the sweet spot of the cross over pipe between the bolt and pipe. Took a few attempts to get the measurement right, but a quick adjustment with the die grinder, and boom im in!!! Cooler clean oil for the turbo here I come!!!

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The new exhaust sounds AWESOME! you can hear a lot of turbo spool, and just over all sounds very nice. It finally sounds like I own a turbo diesel truck. The bummer is I didnt get video of it yet, and the down pipe in knocking on the firewall

My question is, Im going to whack the firewall some more, but can I add shims to above the body mounts? I noticed my passenger side pin stripe on the body is low and doent line up with the truck bed. If I can add the shims it prob would be enough to gain the clearance I need. Im only thinking 2 washers at the most. The pipe only hits off and on, its not constant so I only need a wee bit