Problems - I think???

[fields_mj]

Okay, so I was running late this morning because I had to get my daughter to school. The wife usually does that but she spent the night at the hospital with our 3yo son who's been sick and finally had to go to the ER for dehydration. I wasn't in a hurry, but I'm drying down the road (back road, paved) running about 50 mph through a curve. The truck starts to shake like I'm going over a washboard on a gravel road, and it gets progressivly worse FAST. Immediatly, I pushed in on the clutch, turned the key off, and started to coast to the side of the road. As soon as I turned the key off, everything calmed down. Total time from start to key off was about 5 seconds. I was worried that I had bent a rod or something. As I was coasting to a stopped I checked my gauges. Oil pressure and temp were fine. Before the truck coasted to a full stop I hit the ignition key (clutch still in) and the truck fired right up no problems. Voltage gauge indicated the alt was running fine (Serp belt okay). I let out on the clutch eased back out on the road, and dove the rest of the way to work. As I approached an S curve, I noticed that I had no power stearing, or at least that's what it felt like. It took a very firm grip with both hands to turn the wheel any appreciable amount. Wheels went back to straight with a lot less effort. Got into town, and making the turns from one road to the next was very difficult. I was glad there were only 3 turns plus the one into the parking lot. I was going to park on the outskirts of the lot and take a quick look undernieth. I though maybe something had happend with the tie rods. After I turned the wheels to pull into the parking lot, just as the front wheels touched the gravel, it was like you turning my power steering pump back on and everything was fine. I parked the truck, turned the wheels back and forth with no problems. Turned the engine off, got out and looked under the front end and nothing looks out of place with the tierods or the ball joints (just a quick visual check though). Popped the hood. Serp belt fine. Checked the PS pump. It has always leaked on my during colder weather (40s or below), but it always seals back up in the spring. I go through a quart or two of ATF with it every winter, but last year I only had to top it off 3 times, so it was less than a quart. Anway, I topped it off as a matter of maintenace during my last oil change (4K ago). I checked it again and the level was fine, but the ATF had a brown tint to it.

So any ideas on why the truck started shaking, or why the stearing went out on me?

Thanks,
Mark

 

[OLDBULL8]

From all that your saying your gonna need a new/rebuilt power steering pump soon. Could be it tied up when you lost steering. Check your serp belt real close for burnt spots.

 

[snicklas]

Another thing it could be it the U-Joints in the front axle that allow the steering knuckles to pivot. I know someone that had a Brick... and at times it would be impossible to steer, and other times just fine. In his case, only one "axis" of the U-Joint was frozen up. So if it was turned the right way, steering, and steering effort would be normal. If the joint was turned the wrong way it was almost impossible to turn. Took a bit to figure that one out. Do you have manual or auto lockouts. If they are manual, are they locked or unlocked?

 

[icanfixall]

Both of the comments above can easily be whats wrong. I'm leaning towards the known issue with the power steering pump leak and the color of the fluid. Sadly you will need a special pulley puller to remove and install the pump pulley. Any fakeazz auto parts store will rent or allow you to borrow one if you buy the pump from them.

 

[fields_mj]

I have manual hubs. I was going to double check them when I parked the truck, but spaced it. They should be unlocked.

I have the pully pullers. Bought them when I had to replace the vacuum pump. I was expecting the PS Resvoir to be bone dry when I popped the cap off, but it wasn't. I wouldn't have thought the PS pump would have caused the vibrations, but I did think that maybe the vibrations caused the pump to mess up and it just so happened to free itself up as I pulled into the parking lot. I think I'll suck the fluid out of it and fill it up with fresh ATF when I get home. I replaced the gear box, tie-rods and ends, and the hoses within the first 6 months that I had the truck. The pump and Resev. look like a real PITA to get to so I've tried to avoid doing it as long as I can. Sounds like I should get them on order so that they are sitting on the shelf when I need them...

 

[riotwarrior]

I"m leaning to U joint...his description of the shaking/shuddering tells me that the ujoint/s got bound up and caused it to shimmy when turning and finally released afterwards.

Real simple test..

Jack up front end of truck and block it up...both sides off ground..

Key on ENGINE OFF

Trans in Neutral

Turn steering one way full lock

lock one hub and rotate tyre this will cause the ujoint to function and any binding will be alarmingly easy to spot. If nothing, unlock hub and the do other side with it's hub locked.

JM2CW

Al

 

[fields_mj]

I'll give that a try. I need to swap out the wheels on the front end anyway. I've got a pair in the garage that's almost worn out, and I want to use them the rest of the way up so that I can put a new set of M55s on those rims before winter. I'll get it up and put the jack stands under both sides and do it all at once.

Thanks!

 

[Dieselcrawler]

Was steering wheel shaking?