rhkcommander
Full Access Member
I'd try injector hole myself before popping the head off... compressed air in the gp hole and a shop vac in the inj hole maybe
either way that sucks, good luck
either way that sucks, good luck
One of these 8 glow plugs.....
- Thread starter fuzzydog
- Start date
fuzzydog
Full Access Member
I'd try injector hole myself before popping the head off... compressed air in the gp hole and a shop vac in the inj hole maybe
either way that sucks, good luck
already done - we've tried for hours. If I had just popped off the head from the start - it would be back together and running by now. But I did come up with an idea for a removal tool that I am going to try to experiment with. Won't help me now because I have already pushed it in, but in future......
I believe there's a specific bolt sequence that you need to do when removing the heads on an IDI. I'd do a search before pulling the heads.
Good luck to you
Good luck to you
fuzzydog
Full Access Member
this isn't an IDI (my previous one was) but you are correct, the head bolts need to be removed in reverse sequence
Its been going pretty good so far today - I was getting frustrated with access but finally removed the plastic fender liner. Should have done that first as it gives great access to everything in there. Right now I am just going to have some lunch before undoing the head bolts, then a couple friends are coming over to help lift it off. I left the exhaust manifold attached as there is no way those bolts are coming off intact. Once on the bench I will remove the bolts and replace them with new just for future convenience.
Also while I am down there
, I unbolted the downpipe at the cat and well, er......the cat is not going back in .. (no SMOG in my area)
Its been going pretty good so far today - I was getting frustrated with access but finally removed the plastic fender liner. Should have done that first as it gives great access to everything in there. Right now I am just going to have some lunch before undoing the head bolts, then a couple friends are coming over to help lift it off. I left the exhaust manifold attached as there is no way those bolts are coming off intact. Once on the bench I will remove the bolts and replace them with new just for future convenience.
Also while I am down there
, I unbolted the downpipe at the cat and well, er......the cat is not going back in .. (no SMOG in my area)fuzzydog
Full Access Member
Ok, the head is out. I figured I would post up a few pics and some info for future searchers. Note that this info refers to the PASSENGER SIDE head only.
1. The head comes out easily with the exhaust manifold attached. leave it on, save yourself some grief. Having said that now that it is off I am going to blast those diseased bolts off and put new ones in.
2. You don't have to mess with any of the injector pump, etc. There is one fuel line that goes from the fuel pump to the very back of the head, underneath the exhaust downpipe. This was the single biggest PITA about the whole job. It is a 9/16th compression fitting and you have to disconnect the downpipe at the turbo AND at the cat converter in order to move it around enough. Even then, it is tough to get the wrench on as you still can't actually see the nut. Persevere and it will eventually come.
3. I completely removed the Y pipe from the turbo for simplicity and more room.
4. you definitely have to remove the outside of the AC (condenser?/evaporator?) box on the passenger side firewall. there are several small bolts all around and one has to be removed from inside the cab. Look in the area and it is pretty obvious.
5. remove the plastic fender liner. OMG, this gives so much room for getting at all the bolts - head bolts, exhaust manifold to up pipe bolts, exhaust back pressure line at the front of the head....it just is so much easier. The liner itself is a bit of a pita to get out, but as mentioned, well worth it.
6. other than that everything else is pretty obvious - the oil line and fuel return line (I guess) at the upper front of the head have to be disconnected. I left one attached to the head as it was easier to undo the other end. they are only about 6" long. There is a ground strap going from the head to the firewall - I undid it at the firewall and left it attached to the head.
Radiator, fan shroud, fan, etc do not have to be removed. Turbo does not have to be removed.
The head, block and valves look really really good. We did notice that the cylinders have what I consider to be a pretty darn big ridge on them though. I think this must be normal because we could see some crosshatching on one of the cylinders. Do these come from the factory with a hefty ridge at the top for some reason?
Here are some pics
The silver blanket on the ac box has to go. You should remove it before taking the valve cover off. I didn't and when I did remove it the dust got all over inside the head. it will get a good cleaning before reinstallation.
Here it is with the outer cover removed. lots more room to work
And here we are looking in from the passenger side wheel well with the liner removed. The tire is still on, if you really want to get comfy in there remove the tire and put that corner on a jackstand.
A couple of shots showing the head just about ready to come out.
and, OH, what's this? A kingpin Dana 60 under my F250?
1. The head comes out easily with the exhaust manifold attached. leave it on, save yourself some grief. Having said that now that it is off I am going to blast those diseased bolts off and put new ones in.
2. You don't have to mess with any of the injector pump, etc. There is one fuel line that goes from the fuel pump to the very back of the head, underneath the exhaust downpipe. This was the single biggest PITA about the whole job. It is a 9/16th compression fitting and you have to disconnect the downpipe at the turbo AND at the cat converter in order to move it around enough. Even then, it is tough to get the wrench on as you still can't actually see the nut. Persevere and it will eventually come.
3. I completely removed the Y pipe from the turbo for simplicity and more room.
4. you definitely have to remove the outside of the AC (condenser?/evaporator?) box on the passenger side firewall. there are several small bolts all around and one has to be removed from inside the cab. Look in the area and it is pretty obvious.
5. remove the plastic fender liner. OMG, this gives so much room for getting at all the bolts - head bolts, exhaust manifold to up pipe bolts, exhaust back pressure line at the front of the head....it just is so much easier. The liner itself is a bit of a pita to get out, but as mentioned, well worth it.
6. other than that everything else is pretty obvious - the oil line and fuel return line (I guess) at the upper front of the head have to be disconnected. I left one attached to the head as it was easier to undo the other end. they are only about 6" long. There is a ground strap going from the head to the firewall - I undid it at the firewall and left it attached to the head.
Radiator, fan shroud, fan, etc do not have to be removed. Turbo does not have to be removed.
The head, block and valves look really really good. We did notice that the cylinders have what I consider to be a pretty darn big ridge on them though. I think this must be normal because we could see some crosshatching on one of the cylinders. Do these come from the factory with a hefty ridge at the top for some reason?
Here are some pics
The silver blanket on the ac box has to go. You should remove it before taking the valve cover off. I didn't and when I did remove it the dust got all over inside the head. it will get a good cleaning before reinstallation.
You must be registered for see images attach
Here it is with the outer cover removed. lots more room to work
You must be registered for see images attach
And here we are looking in from the passenger side wheel well with the liner removed. The tire is still on, if you really want to get comfy in there remove the tire and put that corner on a jackstand.
You must be registered for see images attach
A couple of shots showing the head just about ready to come out.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
and, OH, what's this? A kingpin Dana 60 under my F250?
You must be registered for see images attach
Late_99_psd
Full Access Member
Bet you'll never buy an autolite product again 
fuzzydog
Full Access Member
Bet you'll never buy an autolite product again
Never have - it was the PO that put that one plug in there
