Christian9112
Full Access Member
Does anybody have a diagram/schematics for an oil system for any IDI? I am trying to figure out where to tap an oil gauge but I have read that oil pressures can go up to thousands of psi.
Oil system diagram for 1994 e350 na idi ambulance?
- Thread starter Christian9112
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DrCharles
Full Access Member
Only in the lines from the injection pump to the injectors!
The lubrication system for the engine itself normally runs at around 50 psi and even when cold would not exceed 100 psi...
The lubrication system for the engine itself normally runs at around 50 psi and even when cold would not exceed 100 psi...
jwalterus
Made in America
Please introduce yourself, as well as making use of the search function.
Welcome to the forum.
Welcome to the forum.
vegas39
Full Access Member
Sure you weren't reading about the high pressure oil system of a powerstroke?
Like mentioned before, the only thing high pressure on these is the fuel injection
Christian9112
Full Access Member
Sorry, Hi I am new to the diesel game. I mainly worked on motorcycles. Thank you DrCharles.
Where should I tap in for the oil pressure gauge to get a precise reading?
Where should I tap in for the oil pressure gauge to get a precise reading?
Christian9112
Full Access Member
Also, I could not find a service manual online for an e350 na IDI cut out/rv/ambulance. Is the turbo idi manual ok for these?
DrCharles
Full Access Member
How about a tee on the same port where the existing sensor is screwed in? 
BTW, many Fords replaced the dash gauge's sensor with an on-off switch & resistor, so the gauge only reads zero or mid-scale. They got tired of owner concerns over changing oil pressure with temperature and RPM, so the factory solution was to have the gauge lie to them!
BTW, many Fords replaced the dash gauge's sensor with an on-off switch & resistor, so the gauge only reads zero or mid-scale. They got tired of owner concerns over changing oil pressure with temperature and RPM, so the factory solution was to have the gauge lie to them!
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Christian9112, You'll find that A LOT of people these days don't know the difference between a 7.3 IDI and a 7.3PSD. It get pretty frustrating sometimes.
Christian9112
Full Access Member
at first I thought it was a Powerstroke since it was 1994 but quickly realize it looked different under the hood. I researched IDIs and they seem to be great fit for me and I bought it. I wanted to learn diesel mechanics and IDI seems to be the easiest to work on by DIY.
It was decomissioned by california swat. All the wires were either torn off or plugged off. She smoked like hell driving it home. Smelled like unburnt diesel. owner thought the cylinders were leaking. Turns out, that one of the injectors had a broken dowel.
Right now I want to monitor what else is broken on this thing so I can upgrade the parts. I am looking into gauges at the moment. Volt meter/ oil pressure/ coolant temps/ fuel pressure/ EGT.
It was decomissioned by california swat. All the wires were either torn off or plugged off. She smoked like hell driving it home. Smelled like unburnt diesel. owner thought the cylinders were leaking. Turns out, that one of the injectors had a broken dowel.
Right now I want to monitor what else is broken on this thing so I can upgrade the parts. I am looking into gauges at the moment. Volt meter/ oil pressure/ coolant temps/ fuel pressure/ EGT.
Macrobb
Full Access Member
Fuel pressure..On an IDI, you need (>0) psi, usually less than 7. The injection pressure is not measurable and doesn't matter anyway, because it only exists due to the spring holding the injector shut... so the injection pressure is equal to the injector pop pressure, basically.
This is also why, if you have a loose line, you aren't going to see huge pressures there - with no resistance, the pressure will be minimal.
Volt meter... not really needed while driving; check with a multimeter and if it's charging decently(14.0-14.5v at hot idle), you are fine.
Coolant temps is a good one to have.
Oil pressure is good to have but not something to worry about really; as long as you are seeing 10+ psi at hot idle, you are fine.
Pressures will be a lot lower than you are expecting, peaking around 45 cold, at 2k rpm or so. Really, as long as you have oil in there, there isn't much you can do about it anyway.
Another good one to have is an EGT gauge, especially if you mess with fuel and/or add a turbo. Don't want to melt something.
This is also why, if you have a loose line, you aren't going to see huge pressures there - with no resistance, the pressure will be minimal.
Volt meter... not really needed while driving; check with a multimeter and if it's charging decently(14.0-14.5v at hot idle), you are fine.
Coolant temps is a good one to have.
Oil pressure is good to have but not something to worry about really; as long as you are seeing 10+ psi at hot idle, you are fine.
Pressures will be a lot lower than you are expecting, peaking around 45 cold, at 2k rpm or so. Really, as long as you have oil in there, there isn't much you can do about it anyway.
Another good one to have is an EGT gauge, especially if you mess with fuel and/or add a turbo. Don't want to melt something.
Here ya go, with a few other pic's.
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More, only allowed 5 pic's per post. 1st pic is where you can remove pipe plug for an oil pressure gauge. For an EGT you can drill and tap on the underside of the drivers side exhaust manifold between 6 & 8 cylinders.
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Christian9112
Full Access Member
oldbull you are the freaking MAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THANK YOU
Christian9112
Full Access Member
The return lines were cracked and leaking air in so I replaced it along with viton O rings. I am curious if the timing will change if I reduce the pop pressure at 1600 or 2200 as to the normal 1800.
I have deleted the pump and installed a holley red. This was the main reason i am putting a fuel gauge.
The alternator is not operating properly. It is a leece neville 165 amp alt. With the engine running, it is only at 12.7v. I have the brushes and regulator collecting dust for now.
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