jwalterus
Made in America
Well, truck was down for a bit, oil pressure dropped to 2 psi one day in January and I limped it home, checked the pressure gauge first (doesn't read below 5psi), hooked it up to a good gauge and saw the 2 psi, changed oil and filter, no change and a lot of cussing, and decided to wait until it was warm to delve into it (no access to a heated garage big enough to work on the truck).
I finally had time to tear into it last weekend, and I decided to pull the pump and sump tube (which I figured had cracked and I could fix it), and did it without pulling the motor completely, splitting the trans, or dropping/cutting the crossmember.
Loosened the 2 trans crossmember bolts, took out the 2 nuts on each side engine mount, cracked the pan free while the engine was down, put a trans jack under the trans and lifted as high as possible (reasoning later on, could have used a floor jack), disconnected the exhaust from the manifolds so it was free, and lifted the front of the engine until the bellhousing hit the cab, dropped the driver's side tie rod end and used a floor jack with a piece of 2x4 to lift the engine on the drivers side (trans jack kept it level, tie rod end was disconnected to make room).
Doing this made room to access the oil pump mounting bolts, and the sump tube support bolt (by twisting the oil pan and shoving it to the driver's side, required about 12" of extension), pulled the entire assembly out of the FRONT of the oil pan (requires a little twisting to pull it out, but it wasn't a PITA). 3.5 hours to this point in 85* and 80% humidity.
Took about 3 hours to do this, using hand tools and no air. Oil sump tube was fine, disconnected the sump tube, pulled open the oil pump, drive gear (inside pump, not outside) slips on the shaft, shaft is scored up underneath, so I bought a new pump, I thought about welding it or tapping for set screws, but I decided against it for my truck. New pump cost $181.99 from either O'Reilly or Carquest, I went with Carquest because they could get one quicker. Dropped the enigne back into place and had the oil pan held on with 4 bolts until yesterday when I finished.
Reassembly was the same reversed, used air tools (because I can), and put the oil pump/sump tube assembly in from the front, mounted oil pump first then sump tube support bolt. Cleaned gasket surfaces with a razor blade scraper and brake cleaner, PO had put on a cork gasket, rtv-ed the crap out of the engine gasket surfaces (3/8" bead with a caulking gun tube), and put the pan back on. Took me about 2.5 hours (80* and 65% humidity) to put it back together, dropped engine back into place then dropped trans jack, trans jack kept engine straight up/down with no shifting, so it dropped straight back into the engine mounts.
The only reason I did it this way was to see if it could be done A) safely and B) reasonably easily. I would do it this way again if I ever have to now rather than pull the engine or split the trans. I didn't work my rear off, and it could probably be done much quicker with help. Keep in mind my truck is N/A with a T-19, if you have a ZF, auto, or turbo, this may not be possible.
I finally had time to tear into it last weekend, and I decided to pull the pump and sump tube (which I figured had cracked and I could fix it), and did it without pulling the motor completely, splitting the trans, or dropping/cutting the crossmember.
Loosened the 2 trans crossmember bolts, took out the 2 nuts on each side engine mount, cracked the pan free while the engine was down, put a trans jack under the trans and lifted as high as possible (reasoning later on, could have used a floor jack), disconnected the exhaust from the manifolds so it was free, and lifted the front of the engine until the bellhousing hit the cab, dropped the driver's side tie rod end and used a floor jack with a piece of 2x4 to lift the engine on the drivers side (trans jack kept it level, tie rod end was disconnected to make room).
Doing this made room to access the oil pump mounting bolts, and the sump tube support bolt (by twisting the oil pan and shoving it to the driver's side, required about 12" of extension), pulled the entire assembly out of the FRONT of the oil pan (requires a little twisting to pull it out, but it wasn't a PITA). 3.5 hours to this point in 85* and 80% humidity.
Took about 3 hours to do this, using hand tools and no air. Oil sump tube was fine, disconnected the sump tube, pulled open the oil pump, drive gear (inside pump, not outside) slips on the shaft, shaft is scored up underneath, so I bought a new pump, I thought about welding it or tapping for set screws, but I decided against it for my truck. New pump cost $181.99 from either O'Reilly or Carquest, I went with Carquest because they could get one quicker. Dropped the enigne back into place and had the oil pan held on with 4 bolts until yesterday when I finished.
Reassembly was the same reversed, used air tools (because I can), and put the oil pump/sump tube assembly in from the front, mounted oil pump first then sump tube support bolt. Cleaned gasket surfaces with a razor blade scraper and brake cleaner, PO had put on a cork gasket, rtv-ed the crap out of the engine gasket surfaces (3/8" bead with a caulking gun tube), and put the pan back on. Took me about 2.5 hours (80* and 65% humidity) to put it back together, dropped engine back into place then dropped trans jack, trans jack kept engine straight up/down with no shifting, so it dropped straight back into the engine mounts.
The only reason I did it this way was to see if it could be done A) safely and B) reasonably easily. I would do it this way again if I ever have to now rather than pull the engine or split the trans. I didn't work my rear off, and it could probably be done much quicker with help. Keep in mind my truck is N/A with a T-19, if you have a ZF, auto, or turbo, this may not be possible.
