jonathan
Full Access Member
I'm needing to know what type of material is good for are oil coolers.
oil cooler o rings
- Thread starter jonathan
- Start date
Jonathan, I don't know what the rings are made of, but you can save yourself alot of money if you get them from Rockauto...
I went to the IH stealership because they usually are reasonable and even cheaper than the Ford stealership and paid 52 bux for the full set and the Ford guys wanted 55...
Frack that... I thought that was frelling disgusting after I found out that Rockauto wants less than 7 bucks for them...
Go to Rockauto dot com and type part# GS33545 in the search box at the near top of the page.
They are Victor-Reinz and are very good quality seals... In fact, I used the same in mine just weeks ago...
A word of advice, DON'T hit the oil cooler ends with a metal hammer... I did out of frustration...
I went to the IH stealership because they usually are reasonable and even cheaper than the Ford stealership and paid 52 bux for the full set and the Ford guys wanted 55...
Frack that... I thought that was frelling disgusting after I found out that Rockauto wants less than 7 bucks for them...
Go to Rockauto dot com and type part# GS33545 in the search box at the near top of the page.
They are Victor-Reinz and are very good quality seals... In fact, I used the same in mine just weeks ago...
A word of advice, DON'T hit the oil cooler ends with a metal hammer... I did out of frustration...
idiabuse
Full Access Member
mine leaks! and the rings are new! 
jonathan
Full Access Member
Thanks bill I found a online source for viton o rings for 10 bucks for 4.i just want to know if they will hold up to the task
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Russell and maybe gary can tell you what material to use.
There's a thread here, goes by color. Green and black, IIRC.
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There's a thread here, goes by color. Green and black, IIRC.
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icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Mel aka agnem or Russ aka typ4 will sell you the correct o rings. The color does really mean something too. Green and black are what you want. This is a deep job and to make a mistake using the cheap stuff is not worth the cost difference in the long run. Also how you install them makes a big diff too.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
^Thats the truth. Normally I'm one for finding cheaper stuff, but knew I didn't want to deal with that thing a second time. (Though I did anyways to replace a header)
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Sent from my USCC-C6721 using Tapatalk
idiabuse
Full Access Member
Used rings from a complete gasket kit Victor Reinz. 1000 miles it drips 2 quarts, $10+ a quart of oil
jonathan
Full Access Member
Thanks Gary I didn't know that Mel and Russ sold these o rings
jaluhn83
Full Access Member
Yep, smacking the ends is suboptimal - the aluminum is soft and will crack. Easy to weld though... don't ask me how I know this....
I highly recommend hydro testing prior to install as well - it's easy enough to be worth it. All you need is 2 small pieces of flat metal that will cover the flanges at each end - drill holes in these to match, and a hole in the center of each passage (both ends) tapped for NPT. Bolt each up with a new gasket, and put a good quality rachet tie down strap around the entire cooler (to keep pressure from pushing the ends off - the stock hydro setup uses a plate holding the 2 end flange covers together to mimics how the block holds it, but it's much easier to just use a strap. Hook one passage up to shop air through a regulator (I used ~20 psi water side & ~50 oil side), then put the whole thing in a tub of water and look for bubble.... easy day.
I highly recommend hydro testing prior to install as well - it's easy enough to be worth it. All you need is 2 small pieces of flat metal that will cover the flanges at each end - drill holes in these to match, and a hole in the center of each passage (both ends) tapped for NPT. Bolt each up with a new gasket, and put a good quality rachet tie down strap around the entire cooler (to keep pressure from pushing the ends off - the stock hydro setup uses a plate holding the 2 end flange covers together to mimics how the block holds it, but it's much easier to just use a strap. Hook one passage up to shop air through a regulator (I used ~20 psi water side & ~50 oil side), then put the whole thing in a tub of water and look for bubble.... easy day.
The orings in full gasket sets are black and do not hold up. the good ones are actually dark blue and the fat ones are green. I have NOS IH orings and felpro gaskets.
I have yet to find a match for the fat one that is perfect.
I have yet to find a match for the fat one that is perfect.
Agreed get the appropriate kit with dark blue (looks purple to me lol) and green. I purchased mine from the Ford dealer for a decent price. I've pulled apart two coolers so far that had silicon (orange) and buna (black) o-rings... Both were on the brink of total failure. Silicon and buna have their place but in this situation it is a big no-no.
Pulling the rubber fender skirt is a good idea. Helpful when scraping off old gaskes stuck to the block. Dirty job but well worth the effort. Good luck
Andrew
Pulling the rubber fender skirt is a good idea. Helpful when scraping off old gaskes stuck to the block. Dirty job but well worth the effort. Good luck
Andrew
How much did Ford charge you for the rings, Andrew?
Mine were green and dark blue too...
Mine were green and dark blue too...
