not enough power

idismoker7.3

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I'm new to this motor and truck its a f350 crew cab dually with the 94 idi factory Turbo auto. I feel LIke if it's running right It should pull a f150 on a tow Dolly with easy right? I feel it's having a hard time any ideas
 

Kevin 007

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How many miles on the injection pump and injectors? Are there any intake leaks post turbo? Is the tranny slipping/overheating/causing any grief? That would/could absorb some power.
 

chris142

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Restricted fuel filter? Even with a turbo these trucks are gutless compared to a newer Diesel
 

idismoker7.3

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I have not changed the IP of injectors yet I did the lift pump. And the transmission shifts hard bud no slips
 

icanfixall

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So what is the mileage on the truck or engine. If the engine mileage is over 125,00 then both the injection pump and injecters are worn out. Timing is a big factor in how well these engines run too. A dirty fuel filter is. Look over the exhaust flanges. Any that look black are telling you thats a leak. Any leak in the before turbo exhaust is going to limit the available boost because the hot side can't work hard enough to make boost on the inlet side. Both hot and cold wheels are on one turbo shaft. So if the drive side which is the hot side can't make drive pressure it can't pump air into the engine as boost.
 

Dieselcrawler

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also, is it the truck in your pic? has it been regeared to compensate for the large tires?
 

idismoker7.3

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No that's not my truck. But I do think it has a highway gear because I'll cruise down the highway about 70-75 at a little over 2 grand. But I can't tow for crap
 
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GOOSE

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Please take the time to fill in your signature so we know the basics of your truck like what size tires, what trans and such.
We could probably tell you what gears you have with a little more knowledge. My truck turns roughly 2500rpm's@75mph. My F250 turned 2200rpm's at about 80mph with 3:55 gears. I am guessing you need IP, injectors and timing. The factory exhaust is constrictive, they make upgraded exhaust elbows, downpipes and so on so there is room to gain there as well.
 

lotzagoodstuff

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Mark your rear tire sidewall where the tire meets the ground vertically, then tie a string around your driveshaft and knot the string at the bottom of the driveshaft and mark the driveshaft with a grease pencil or welding crayon. Now have somebody get in your truck and move it slowly for one tire revolution while counting the driveshaft revolutions with the string. If it's a little over 4 revolutions on the driveshaft, it's 4.10s. About 3 and a half, 3.55s. If it's a little over three, you've got 3.23s. If you got lots of time on your hands and like the smell of gear lube on your hands (or maybe you just haven't changed the lube and you want to do the maintenance), pull the rearend cover and count the number of ring gear teeth and divide by the number of pinion teeth. Just wondering: how tall are your tires? It will effect your final gearing.

In regards to your power or lack of power: timing is pretty critical on an IDI, so get it timed. If it still runs poorly, look at your IP and injectors.

Good luck, and FYI: that's a good looking rig in your avatar ;Sweet
 
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C.J.

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In regards to your power or lack of power: timing is pretty critical on an IDI, so get it timed. If it still runs poorly, look at your IP and injectors.
Good luck, and FYI: that's a good looking rig in your avatar ;Sweet

I'll vouch for timing is everything. I took my rig in and had it timed and WOW what a difference in power and mileage did it make. Sure, it ain't no Powerstroke, but it's affordable and reliable as all get out and that adds up for the little guy in the long run.
 

laserjock

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With or without OD? Probably 3.55's. That's in the ballpark of my f150 which is 3.55 with OD.

Other methods would be to check the door tag or the tag on the diff for ratio or axle code.
 
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