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93_E_350

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First off get a mechanical oil psi gauge, they (Blackstone) probably new you had a factory gauge – LOL. Do a quick hook up, take it for a ride and see what you get. “If you’re going to be scared you might as well get scared by something real and not the boggy man”…

Do a compression test. I always use two cans of engine flush when doing an oil change – keeps the rings clean. Warning - Read the label there a at least two kinds one with a turbo and one with out.
 

gunnie

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i agree with the above posts, get a mechanical gauge. mine would stay on the L or lower i drove it this way for a short time, installed a mechanical now i have 40 lbs at 2000 rpm and 18 lbs at idle running temp. bought a autometer for like 35 bucks real good investment for peace of mind
 

Exekiel69

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The oil gauge is on the way, but I can steel tell the difference between oil pressure and no oil pressure. Some time ago when I just had the amsoil bypass filters (one is 1 micron) every time the truck was down hill the oil pressure gauge would not read until after 1 minute of engine running, I replaced the 1 micron filter for another filter that would thread in and the problem at startup was gone although I still had low oil pressure. Now I'm running a regular oil filter and the pressure seems a bit higher but no more. I'd like t know what gives first the oil pump or the pressure ball in the oil cooler heather.

Thank You.
 

93_E_350

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The oil gauge is on the way, but I can steel tell the difference between oil pressure and no oil pressure. Some time ago when I just had the amsoil bypass filters (one is 1 micron) every time the truck was down hill the oil pressure gauge would not read until after 1 minute of engine running, I replaced the 1 micron filter for another filter that would thread in and the problem at startup was gone although I still had low oil pressure. Now I'm running a regular oil filter and the pressure seems a bit higher but no more. I'd like t know what gives first the oil pump or the pressure ball in the oil cooler heather.

Thank You.

A 1 micron filter - 1 micron = 1/1000 mm = 1/25,400 of a inch! Who suggest you use that? I heard of 10 micron fuel filters and maybe for a hydraulic pump but seem a little restrictive for motor oil? How long ago did you start using this filter and does it coincide with the lead in the oil?
 

Exekiel69

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The 1 micron oil filter is from amsoil that is the filter that comes with the bypass kit and one must use it if You want to run a bypass. I did notice the gauge didn't work the same for a few months and then I switched to regular oil to see if that would change anything.

Any ideas on the low oil pressure?

Thank You.
 

argve

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the 1 mic filter is not plumbed up in such a way that all the oil passes through it - it is as the name suggests a bypass filter as it only sees a portion of the oil on every pass of the fluid.
 

argve

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EZ

we need to get a real oil pressure gauge on the system to start troubleshooting. as you know the stock oil gauge is hooked to pressure switch that turns on at 7psi and there is a resistor on the Printed Circuit Board that makes the gauge cluster so that when the switch closes that the needle on the dash will deflect to a predetermined point - meaning that one truck will show N for oil pressure but another truck will show L. So getting a real gauge hitched up is our next step.

now for checking the valve guides you have to take off the valve springs so you will need to have the piston in the up position to do this check. We all know there isn't any room for a valve to go any where if the piston is up so you won't loose it down the cylinder. A typcial sign of bad bad guides and bad seals is soot build up around the offending valve/cylinder in the valve cover. But with running AMSOIL with it's higher detergent content I would expect it to lesson the amount of build up but I would still expect to see some because everytime the clyinder fires it would force some out. Plus you don't have much pressurized oil in the valve cover it pretty much just sort of oozes out of the pushrods - it's not like a chevy 350 where it shoots across the room.

I no longer have my service manuals so I can't tell you what the amount of deflection is acceptable but typically you can feel it when they are bad - there should be almost no movement side to side of the valve stem.
 

Exekiel69

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Thank You for posting on this one Travis. I don't think amsoil is the problem, the bypass maybe but I will know for sure today or tomorrow. I bought a sun pro oil pressure gauge (sorry the isspro would take about a week to get here) and will connect it to see real # and go from there.

Now check this out, while I was still running amsoil oil and bypass filters the oil pressure would take about 1 minute sometimes to build up on the gauge at start up (stock) and when I switched to rotella 15W40 that wouldn't happen. Now I only run a stock oil filter and the pressure on the gauge seems higher so the new real gauge should tell the truth.

Thank You.
 

Exekiel69

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Well the sunpro oil press gauge is installed and the # are normal to Me.

At start up I can see 40psi at the gauge and once warmed up I can see 19-20psi and 42 at 2000rpm warmed up driving.

What do You guys think.
 

sle2115

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I see pretty much the same numbers, except I see 50+ cold, then it tapers to 20 or so at hot idle, sometimes more sometimes a little less. At anything much over idle, the pressure picks up quickly and at 2000 I see about the same, 42 to 44, I know this because my gauge blinks (digital) at anything under 40, and gets your attention.

Personally, I think you are fine. Are there any other symptoms of low oil pressure? And as for guides, you should feel no side to side movement. Most are clearanced at .002 to .003 and most heads we saw with .004 or more were recommended for a re-guide. Many would go with the knurl, which if done right isn't bad, but I preferred the new guides and in my heads used the one with a spiral liner as they oiled very well.
 

argve

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EZ

the pressure results are good.

I still don't have an idea of why it took longer for you to build oil pressure with syn oil vs dead dinos Ihave thought and thought about and just can't seem to come up with a logical reason. But we know one thing for sure that you got good pressure.
 

Exekiel69

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Travis I don't think it is the oil but I suspect (no proof yet) it was the bypass filter. Anyway, how the heck do I have lead on the oil samples -cuss . Now We know is not the oil pressure at least, I will reconnect the bypass and see if the # are the same.

Thank You.
 

icanfixall

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These are the factory specs for the guide to valve clearance. This is for both intake and exhaust. Stem diameter ... 0.37165 to 0.37235. Max stem to guide clearance is 0.0055. The valve head recession relative to the deck (head gasket) surface on cylinder head is as follows. Intake 0.042 to 0.054 and the exhaust is 0.051 to 0.063. Now the good news. My information is from the International Engine Service Manual but... My Haynes book shows the standard running clearance for both valves is 0.0012 to 0.0029......
 

93_E_350

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The oil pressure sounds fine. I like Amsoil but the bypass filter seems a little restrictive... Do you have any pictures of the hook up? I would not base any past experience on the factory gauge. Remove the sending unit and standoff, clean it up good and re-install and it will probably "look great". I would get two cans of gumout engine flush and some 5w 40 synthetic oil and once you know all is good go back to using the bypass filter if you want. I was looking around and found a 5 micron filter at an Amsoil site – is that what you have or is it 1 micron?

Glad to here you got good oil pressure!!!
 
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