New IP installed, a few questions.

[mjs2011]

I got the pump installed today, I did like icanfixall recommends, and put a center-punch mark on the old pump before I sent it off to mark my timing, but my pump had a seized hydraulic head, and I got a different core back, so no center-punch mark. I installed it to the factory timing mark, and It fired right up, but it idles somewhat funny. I guess you could describe it as loping. Is this due to the timing, or is it a fuel delivery issue?

Secondly, I got the throttle spring on the pump installed how I thought it was, but it doesnt seem right. Does anyone have a picture of how this spring mounts?

And lastly, once the high idle kicked out, it seemed to be idling pretty low. Where is the idle adjustment? I will bump it up when I get a timing meter and can see an accurate RPM reading.

 

[ironworker40]

Idle rpm should be on tag on valve cover 850 if i remember corectly. idle is adjusted by the brass plunger on the high idle solonoid. It has a hex on it, 1/4 in wrench I think, turn it out to increase ilde. I can get a pic of mine ip tomorrow

 

[OLDBULL8]

Idle rpm should be on tag on valve cover 850 if i remember corectly. idle is adjusted by the brass plunger on the high idle solonoid. It has a hex on it, 1/4 in wrench I think, turn it out to increase ilde. I can get a pic of mine ip tomorrow

The Hi idle is set by the Hi idle solenoid, not for low RPM idle. Hi idle is 850-900 RPM, Lo idle is 650-700 RPM. The idle screw is on the pass side on the IP, it's the screw with a spring on it. Your loping may be caused by air in the system yet, takes a while to work it out. Don't have a pic of the spring.

 

[icanfixall]

Not all of whats posted above is correct so I might be able to fix this some. Now to increase the idle be it cold or warm what Bill posted is correct. Just turn it in till you feel you have whats good for you. Do not adjust the yellow full throttle set stop on the throttle arm. Now what another member was posting about the brass 1/4 inch hex to adjust the idle is not correct but it can be confused as correct. That brass plunger hex is the fast idle setting and you can adjust it 2 ways. One is to loosen the bracket the solenoid. there are 2 bolts with a 7/16 hex. Just loosen them and slide the bracket towards the throttle arm. then tighten the bolts. Now if the cold fast idle is still not enough now you can adjust that brass 1/4 inch hex plunger till you get what you want. As for the loping sound that tells me your really retarded on timing so move it to the passenger side fender about 1/8 inch and see what that does. It probably will increase the idle doing that advancing too. Now for the throttle spring. It hooks over the top of the throttle cable ball at the end of the throttle arm. Thats between the cable connection and the arm. then the over end of that spring connects way down at the bottom of the idle solenoid bracket where the V notch is. Use a flash lite to see down there. Its best done with the cables off the throttle arm too.

 

[mjs2011]

Excellent info, I knew you guys could tell me what I needed to know.

As far as the loping, turns out it was a loose injector line at the pump. I started it again and it was running rough so I went and looked, it was spitting a bit of fuel too. Lucky it was one of the nuts on the top. I tightened it up and it idles just the same as it did now.

I would like to get the timing done soon but the weather here in South Dakota is just so finicky. Yesterday was 35 so I got the injectors done, Now today It was 40 and I got the rest of the work done, and tomorrow........20 and a chance of snow, and cold for the rest of the week and on into next week.

Is there any harm that can be done running at the factory timing mark for the time being? I don't think It will be nice enough to get out and work again for awhile.

You folks down in the warm states really don't know what you are missing.

 

[mjs2011]

OH, and one more thing, the adapter above the number one injector, Where can I find another one of those? Mine is starting to get cross threaded pretty bad on the top thread and I'm worried that If I ever take the steel line off, I will never get it back on.

 

[icanfixall]

well glad you found the loppy reason and it was an easy fix. Running it not timed is not a death sentence but you will want to time it before too long. No good reason to ruin a set of glow plugs from too much advance. What might help for now is when the engine starts first thing in the cold does it rattle lots. then when the advance and fast idle drop off does it quite down some or is it still rattleing like a powerstroke engine. As for the injector timing adapter the best place is another wrecker engine at a yard or get the hard line from a van engine application that does not has this timing adapter. Dieselogic sells then new for around $45.00. I bet Mel will be a good source for that line and maybe he has the timing adapter too.

 

[mjs2011]

You know I started it this morning and it didn't seem to rattle at all. Yesterday when I put the pump in, I connected the FSS and timing advanced wires with the key on, and both made a solid click, but when I first started it cold, I disconnected the timing advance and it didn't seem to change at all. My ear is only familiar with this one IDI though, and I have only had it for 9 months. Im guessing the timing on it has never been changed. It sounds nearly identical now to how it did when I bought it. Feels the same too, just a little bit more dark smoke than the gray crap I initially had.

 

[icanfixall]

It needs to be timed and not by ear. I have a meter available but its a first come first served deal. Pm me for details and it can be shipped today or when the funds are seen in my paypal.

 

[mjs2011]

Yeah, I talked to you awhile ago about renting a meter. Problem is, the forecast where I am is 10 degrees for the next two weeks.

 

[79jasper]

Did you have the block heater plugged in?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mjs2011]

When I first installed the pump, yes the block heater was plugged in. But later that night when I went out to start it, the block was not plugged in, though I found the loping to be due to an injector nut on the pump loose. Lucky it was on top and I could tighten it.

Haven't plugged it in since the new pump, and it has started every time with no problem. Down to 7 degrees so far and it starts with one cycle of the glowplugs.

With the old pump, If I didn't plug it in and cylce the plugs twice, the truck would just laugh at me in anything lower than 20 degrees. Like it was saying to me, its too damn cold today, cut it out.

I wanna see when we drop to the negatives again if It can start without being plugged in.