New guy here, got some troubles...

[gonecrazyi]

You should wire the air horn into the stock wiring for the steering wheel.

Thats what I did with mine, just had to run a ground and pull the hot off of the wire that used to be on the stock horn.

Works great and much easier to hit quickly then a toggle.

 

[rhkcommander]

yup, its got cruise control so i gotta figure out which wire it is though. shouldnt be too hard to find it though just trace it back from the horn

the toggle is to switch between stock horn and air horn for when i wanna have the nice cuddly beep or blow some eardrums with the air horns . anyone here know a good airhorn kit?

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

anyone here know a good airhorn kit?

I pick them up at swap-meets all the time, the genuine thing.



As for the turbo, I doubt that the turbo itself was built by "Banks"; it was most likely either a Garrett or AER??whatever.

There are only about three actual turbo manufacturers, HOLSET, GARRETT, and one other.

 

[rhkcommander]

trucks running decent now, gonna compression test it soon though.

tackling the sound system today... the door has stock speakers and they were the only ones working on the aftermarket deck and 2 speakers...

turns out one of the two speakers had the wires twisted togeter and tucked under the floor, the other disconnected. he tried hooking them both to the right rear channel.

i am suprised i got any sound at all

anyone know a good (cheap, as cheap as can be) 10" sub box for a standard cab f250? i'd appreciate some good info on this


also, anyone ever have trouble with defrost? i can hear it working, same goes with the blower motor. it works just very VERY slowly/poorly. blend door maybe? havent torn into the dash yet to dig around and fix the taco-meter .... been too rainy

 

[damac]

I am no techie but I think our clunker is all original parts at 220,000 miles. Truck starts easy hot or cold with the manual glowplug mod.

I think we had an incident a couple weeks ago with an injector and a ticking noise. I also think we had oil spewing into the intake and caused a slight runaway due to cleaning and using the old cdr

I got a new cdr unit that has a different design now. The unit, a rubber round grommet that mates to the intake, and a new rubber neck from the intake to the cdr, all from ford.

Also just today I warmed the truck up with the tick, turned it off and filled the fuel filter with atf. Started it up and within seconds the tick went away! Let it idle for a while then hooked the trailer up and pounded it hard up some hills and it still isn't ticking? I have no idea what this means but for now we are going to keep driving the truck

Our compression just last week with the truck warm showed from 385-440. I am actually going to pull it apart soon to install a head gasket/intake set as I suspect some minor issues.

As far as the defrost thing, we had the same issue with the selectors not acting right. Plus the truck stunk. I ended up yanking everything out of the truck, drilled out the rivets, took off the old weatherstripping and cleaned it up.

Terrible job you can only get to after you take the dash top off and get in there. Also be aware if you need to save money you will have to get some nice weatherstripping to keep the elements out and make sure you reseal everything good.

Also the internals have various flap doors that is nasty and you will need to use some good glue to place new foam on all of them. Also make sure all the paths from the cowl to heater/ac box are cleaned out before reassembly.

For us there was crap that was let down into the defrost area physically messing with the top trap door. Upon reassembly we are going to have to make some new vents because our dash is tore up.

Also all the flap doors are pretty strong except the one that seperates the main from the bottom area. This one is made with a single piece of white plastic that is thin and hinged. Ours was completely broken so it couldn't actuate and direct airflow.

I had everything apart and was able to simple use the existing frame and flap door and I used pieces of a 2 liter bottle and rivets to allow it to hinge and actuate.

Planning for thickness and cuts of the new weatherstripping and all of that sucked. I also had to use some foam cutting knives to shape various blocks of foam so all the blend doors would mate nicely.

Then there are all of the areas that need to be sealed between the housings and the firewall on each side.

 

[rhkcommander]

good info, thanks! yeah when i took an ac/heating class the mode dors were very easily broken at the hinges. sucks that it takes that much work... might just use a heat gun to defrost for a while

depending on the stink its either mold or a leaky heater core probably... I think my heater core is fine but the wing windows need to be sealed

 

[rhkcommander]

I promised some pics of the sand... After I cleaned it with gas. But not fully clean, just removing the oil

here's what the PO did right after I bought it cause he wanted to borrow it and thought I could trust him

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oil pic:

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After toweling off the oil...

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and I cleaned all the sand out of the banks kit, gonna take the intake mani off and clean it out when it stops raining reliably. then rebuild it to clean 'er out...

 

[rhkcommander]

Pretty sure the oil is just from the bad CDR and oil rings, just a guess though

 

[rhkcommander]

after investing in group 31 batts (not on sale) and cleaning ALL the wires for ground and positive.

I was wondering how people tie the two batteries together? I was thinking of running another wire from the secondary batt to the starter and maybe another wire from the alternator maybe - anyone?

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

after investing in group 31 batts (not on sale) and cleaning ALL the wires for ground and positive.

I was wondering how people tie the two batteries together? I was thinking of running another wire from the secondary batt to the starter and maybe another wire from the alternator maybe - anyone?

Did it not already have two batteries ??

Original equipment method was each battery had a GROUND cable that connected to the engine-block; a HOT cable ran across the top, in front of the radiator, and connected the left-side battery to the right-side, then a HOT went from right-side battery to starter.

IMPORTANT :

To maintain 12-volts :

Always HOT to HOT; GROUND to GROUND.


If you connect HOT of one battery to GROUND of another, and so forth and so on, you are adding the voltage of every battery in the series = NOT WHAT WE WANT.

 

[rhkcommander]

Did it not already have two batteries ??

Original equipment method was each battery had a GROUND cable that connected to the engine-block; a HOT cable ran across the top, in front of the radiator, and connected the left-side battery to the right-side, then a HOT went from right-side battery to starter.

IMPORTANT :

To maintain 12-volts :

Always HOT to HOT; GROUND to GROUND.


If you connect HOT of one battery to GROUND of another, and so forth and so on, you are adding the voltage of every battery in the series = NOT WHAT WE WANT.

Lol I know not to wire it 24-volt (series) and thats not how its connected. I am great with electrical work just haven't had as much experience on automotive as I have with computers and home electronics. Things would burn out quickly with 24V thanks for the concern though lol.

I am concerned because the right side draws more current than the left side assuming that right=passenger side.. It had dual batteries that were put in a few months ago and died because the alt was dieing/dead and i figure thats how the prior batteries died too before the crappy reman batts the dude popped in.

I am only concerned with putting more load on one battery than the other. I want to have have both batteries do the work rather than one 'primary' one 'secondary'. The stock wiring was very corroded and I cleaned it up alot! Watching them under load, the 'primary' passenger side is lower on voltage than the secondary, both have great voltage but I still want to know if its possible to load balance or if it'll be fine.

The guy I bought the truck from added a few grounds and said this truck needs alot of ground... lol... I looked under it and he added a few extra ground cables between the chassis and the engine and around the battery I guess if stock wiring is good enough (which I have read repeatedly is under-rated) I'll just finish cleaning the grounds today and call 'er good. Thanks for the input and help guys