New 93 turbo engine, lots of white smoke.

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by raydav, Dec 7, 2017 at 12:36 PM.

  1. raydav

    raydav Full Access Member

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    I got my 84 E350 in 1995. It came with a 460/C6. Over the next decade I swapped the C6 for an E4OD and the D70 rear for a D70 dually. In 2005 I got an 89 E350 for it's IDI. A few years ago I added a remote turbo. At that time I also had a 2001 E350 PSD. They are both 7.3, the PSD turbo seems to work well, so I had a shop build me one like the PSD. The most boost I ever saw was ten pounds. But five pounds put me up one gear on hills and the black soot was almost gone.

    Prior to adding the turbo I removed the fuel filter from the engine and put a Racor on the frame.

    I had bought a turbo-calibrated IP in anticipation of adding a turbo, was carrying it, and swapped it in on the road prior to adding the turbo. I replaced the injectors about a year ago. And all was well.

    Recently the 89 IDI produced a large cloud of white smoke when starting cold.

    I have just replaced the 89 IDI with a rebuilt 93 turbo IDI. I set the IP at the center of the slots. It produced enough white smoke to make it unusable. I advanced the IP what little I could without reforming the lines.

    Now, a few seconds after starting it idles very smooth. After it warms a bit it starts instantly, and the white smoke is hardly noticeable. But run it up to maybe 2K and it billows white smoke, and runs a bit rough.

    And that is where it stands. I have driven it only enough to get it on the lift, and that felt normal.

    Suggestions?
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2017 at 12:54 PM
  2. icanfixall

    icanfixall Official GMM hand model

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    Your engine really needs to be timed with a meter. Hopefully you did not remove the injection pump with the top gear housing and gear at the same time.If you did then I feel you are not gear timed correctly.
     
  3. raydav

    raydav Full Access Member

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    Yes I removed the housing with the pump. You don't get a pump, gear or housing with a rebuilt engine. And they went on gear > housing > pump.
     
  4. Sidewinded_idi

    Sidewinded_idi Full Access Member

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    Sounds like it just needs more advance.
     
  5. raydav

    raydav Full Access Member

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    Yea, right after I turn a couple offset box end wrenches into tube wrenches to get at the bottom lines on the pump.

    I got a new set of lines recently. Do they really need to be that stiff?
     
  6. towcat

    towcat Administrator Staff Member

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    white smoke at idle and clears up instantly.....injectors.
    white smoke and rpms breaking up as you throttle up....you're either off a tooth or.....your pump is done.
    good luck.
     
  7. Sidewinded_idi

    Sidewinded_idi Full Access Member

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    For the bottom two nuts I use a stubby craftsmen combination open/box wrench. It’s only about 3 inches in length but the open end reaches the bottom ones no problem
     
  8. Macrobb

    Macrobb Full Access Member

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    advance the ip gear 1 tooth(clockwise when viewed from the front of the engine).
     
  9. raydav

    raydav Full Access Member

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    I advanced the IP drive gear one tooth. I left the advance I previously got by twisting the pump.

    It now seems functional. It is still on the lift, it idles smooth, and is smooth up to I am guessing about 2K; I don't have a tach. And no clouds of smoke. I hope to soon have a timing system.

    When I assembled the engine, I set the IP gear on the cam gear with no gear cover or front cover. I then bolted the gear cover on, then tried to disengage the IP gear. I rattled the IP gear around in the cover but the gears stayed meshed. I then sealed to IP gear cover and did a final bolt down. I left the front cover off as long as I could and then finally installed it and the pan. I installed the IP later. That was all done on a stand.

    I am confident the timing marks were properly aligned. Are the timing marks not necessarily true?
     

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