Needing a cab or some good metal fab

Dsl_Dog_Treat

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Well Goldie has yet another dilema :puke:
Got the carpet pulled back tonight along with my deputy buddy and Goldie is in need of some magic metal fabrication or a replacement cab with decent floor pans and rockers.
My buddy said that it would take some great talent to get her floors and rockers back solid or the easier way is to replace the crew cab with a southern rust free one.
Seems that by time the cab gets sand blasted, there may only be half of the floor pans left. :eek:
No problem for the front as those pans are still available, but the rears will have to be fabricated from scratch. Not my cup of tea. :confused:
The rockers for a regular cab wold have to be chopped and modified to fit the C/C as the replacement sheet metal for a C/C just can't be found.
I have a few feelers out in this area for parts and spoke with tractor boy tonight who might have a good track on some great "ole school" work that just might be doable up yonder in Luddington.
So much for quick and easy. :rotflmao
I took some photos of the demise but will have to load em up tomorrow as the laptop has no floppy drive. -cuss


Signed frustrated in Decatur. :rolleyes:
 

93turbo_animal

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your too far away for me to help ya much Ron but I may have some Ideas on where to get or how to build if I can see the pics but thats all I got for now
 

towcat

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didn't understand the item you are looking for when you called today. sorry:eek:
now it makes sense. I will have the cab off the blue truck soon, but that is an '86. If it works, I have no idea how you are going to get it out there. Best I can do is Texas in July. I am scheduled for a overseas run but have not gotten a green light for go yet. In the meantime, I am busy chasing really bad wrecks for a friend of mime.
 

94f450sd

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its not too hard to fab up floor pans.go get a sheet of 16 gauge steel and start cutting bending and welding.just make sure you make the piece a couple inches bigger than you need.and make sure to spot weld the new piece to the floor supports.you should be able to trim the repair panels for the front to make them fit the rear.
 

Agnem

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Ron, look under your truck. There are some decent sized pieces of metal pop riveted to the bottom of the bed and cab that serve unnecesarily as "heat sheilds" if you want some decent metal for cab repairs. I used the ones from the Lady Moose to fix the Moose Truck once.
 

Dsl_Dog_Treat

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Well here are the drivers side uglies for the night.
Any ideas as to getting the seatbelt retaining bolts out of that mess? :puke:
I might be overacting a bit but a welder I am not yet. :confused:
the drivers side is the worst from underneath but dang does that el cheapo carpet hold the moisture.
Even had fun getting the front seat out. -cuss

Found This after calling him and given a price of $1,850.00
Found others ranging from $1,250 all the way up to the evilbay cab. :puke:
 

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93turbo_animal

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Well the main thing is to remember this is going to be under the carpet most of the floor pan will be easy don't try to make one piece to fit it all replace pieces that you can get to fit it will be more welding but way easier to get your pieces to fit rightremember to brace your cab if your going to cut that rocker out or at the very least take some detailed measurements first so your doors fit when you get done
 

geonc

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:eek: WOWZERS!

having lived south of the line since '70 I forgot how bad the rust can get :eek:

Crap Ron.......looks like it's more than just a hole patch eh?

I'll look around my area and mebee when you go to Virginia
and if I find a good donor.............. :thumbsup:
 

Dsl_Dog_Treat

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The best price cab was in Texas for $1250.00 one found in Georgia was for $1400.00.
Momma :eek: :puke: when I told her this yesterday and she said to keep the costs down.
Looks like I'm gonna try to replace the bad areas as I can get front floor pans but will have to patch the rest. The seat belt retainers on the floor are my only safety concern as I'll prolly have to cut them out to get em removed for sandblasting. :mad:
I showed the pics to my parts jockey and he is a feloow IDI'er too ;Sweet and he said he woud drag him wire welder over and give me a hand when I get the truck back from blasting. ;Sweet
 

argve

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Ah heck Doggie just slap some bondo on it and call it a day ;p

Yep you boys living in the south have it nice.

Looks like from the pictures that the supports are going to have to be repaired/replaced as well. I think I would go for a southern replacement myself then rust proof the heck out of it so that it will last another ten years... We used to use a lot of washer and dryer doors back on the farm when replacing floor pans we would rivet them into place then slap on the sealer with a brush - would hold for a few years. Welding would be the best choice but we didn't have a welder at the house so we did with what we had.
 

krawlr

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In my experience chasing that much rust, those cab prices don't look bad at all. Once you cut away what you can see you'll find the rest of it.
 

hesutton

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Mill Supply will likely have the floor pans and rocker panels for old Goldy. They do for reg cab, you'd think they have'm for the crew. I'll have a look in my catalog and see if they list them if you want.

I agree with Aric, gotta brace the cab before you cut the old metal out. Otherwise, you may never get the doors closed again. :D

Heath
 

Agnem

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Ron, if it would help you, you can have the cab off the 84 parts truck I got. The floor is pretty good in it, but it's just a standard cab.
 

Dsl_Dog_Treat

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Here's a few more of yesterdays final cab gutting. :puke:
Would take ya up on that Mel but I can get good regular cab replacement metal. :confused:
 

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Dsl_Dog_Treat

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And a couple more. :puke:
 

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