Need some help!

marblecrusher

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Alright I bought a 1992 F-350 the other day 5spd, with the 7.3 idi it ran like a champ for 2 weeks then all the sudden im driving it then park it, the next day it woulnt start, so i check and i have fuel at the fuel filter, but when i take a few injector lines off the bak of the pump and turn it over no fuel comes out. My question is what all can i check before it comes down to the pump? Ive been a cummins guy for a while so alot about this motor is different to me lol.

Thanks

-Jordan-
 

BrandonMag

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Based on my limited experience with the fuel system on these trucks, your process of elimination points to the IP.
 

marblecrusher

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yea i know but i mean so the pump was working fine then goes to not working at all, just seemed strange to me, i know the injection pumps on a cummins will get weak and eventually go out but not just all at once
 

Goofyexponent

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Ok! Forst off, welcome to the site! Glad to hear you bought the right kind of truck to start with!

I am going to copy and paste this....it's pretty much what you do when your IDI won't start lol

This is what I posted before when another member's truck wouldn't start.

NO starting? IDI Diesels need a couple different things to make fire. Good compression, a good fuel supply with no air in that fuel system, and a working glow plug system.

First, let the truck sit for a while, and go SLOWLY remove the fuel filter. You will be checking to see if it's full to the top with fuel. If it is, remove the filter and dump it into a clean container....(lighter colored or clear) Look for particles or any other junk in the filter. Replace with a new filter.

Completely fill the filter with a diesel fuel additive (howes, diesel kleen or automatic transmission fluid) before installing on the truck.

Once this checks out, move to the pump. There are 3 wires on it. The back wire is the timing advance wire. The wire on the driver side of the pump is the fuel shut off solenoid. Remove that plug, and hook a wire to the battery's positive post and touch it to this contact on the pump. Verify it is making a clicking sound. If it clicks when the temporary wire is hooked up, the FSS is working right. Replace the plug from the trucks harness and verify that it is getting power to the pump that way. Use a voltage meter or a test light.

While the truck is cranking, open a couple injectors at a time and bleed them so fuel squirts out. Do this to EVERY one of the 8 nuts on the injectors, cranking for 20 - 30 seconds at a time and letting the starter cool a bit between cranking sessions. You will be removing ANY air in the lines, make sure to do this AT THE INJKECTORS lol.

Now that this is all done, and we are sure there is no air in the system, you should check the glow plugs. Get a test light, and hook that to the positive terminal of the truck's battery. Then, one by one, take the wire of the glow plugs and touch the test light on them. If the test light lights up, the plug is good. If the light doesn't light up, it's time to replace that glow plug. MOTORCRAFT/BERU plugs only!!! Trust the wisdom of the majority on this!! I am a victim of buying cheap plugs myself....now I have 8 Motorcraft plugs.

Once you have 8 good plugs, it's time to check to make sure you are getting 12V at the plugs. Have someone turn the key to the "run" position while you check the GP harness. Ground out the test light by hooking it to the negative of the battery and touch the test light on a plug that connects to the GP's. Make sure the others are hooked up or it won't cycle long enough to decide that the relay is closing.

This should get you started on trying to track down the problem.


Don't be scared to ask questions on here, that's what we are all here for!

I would first run the jumper wire from the positive side of the battery to the FSS (Fuel shutoff solenoid) and make sure it is working. You said you had no fuel at the lines, so this is where I would start!
 

Goofyexponent

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yea i know but i mean so the pump was working fine then goes to not working at all, just seemed strange to me, i know the injection pumps on a cummins will get weak and eventually go out but not just all at once

Factory, these trucks had a mechanical lift pump (like the carb'd gassers) bolted to the side of the block by the oil pan. These can get weak and let go, and they can take the high pressure injection pump with them. The IP needs fuel to libricate and cool itself, without this....well...you know what will happen lol.

Someone MAY have installed an electric pump. This will be obvious, tollow the fuel line down the side of the block on the passenger's side to the lift pump and back to the splitter falve on the driver side frame rail beside the front tank...if there is just silod line, then you have a mechanical fuel pump....if there is a pump in line, make sure it is hooked up....and not just there for priming :rolleyes:

Also, if the injectors were wet, you may have an injector cap o-ring problem. Typ4 can supply a KICK ass set for a damn good price.

But let's try and do this the free way, and just check all the stuff I mentioned out first...then we'll go from there.

Ask questions, give details when explaining stuff and for god's sake, have a beer! ;Sweet
 

marblecrusher

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cool well ive verified everthing but the fuel shutoff solenoid, but would that cause no fuel to flow through the pump, well im just getting off work so ill go check the solenoid, thanks for the help so far guys
 

Goofyexponent

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cool well ive verified everthing but the fuel shutoff solenoid, but would that cause no fuel to flow through the pump, well im just getting off work so ill go check the solenoid, thanks for the help so far guys

Indeed it would. It's what stops the flow of fuel through the pump to the injectors. If this is stuck, or doesn't have 12V to snap open...fuel won't flow through the pump to the injectors.

Are you running a diesel additive? A good dose of ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) will free up crap stuck in the fuel system. It has a LOT of detergents in it, and our engines LOVE it. A quart every fill up will do wonders. Ask any old trucker lol. A good diesel additive every fillup does an engine good too! Personally, I now use diesel kleen or howes diesel treat.
 

marblecrusher

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Indeed it would. It's what stops the flow of fuel through the pump to the injectors. If this is stuck, or doesn't have 12V to snap open...fuel won't flow through the pump to the injectors.

Are you running a diesel additive? A good dose of ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) will free up crap stuck in the fuel system. It has a LOT of detergents in it, and our engines LOVE it. A quart every fill up will do wonders. Ask any old trucker lol. A good diesel additive every fillup does an engine good too! Personally, I now use diesel kleen or howes diesel treat.

I use Lucas in my dodge and have plenty of auto tranny fluid layin around that i was going to use in the ford, but i havent owned it long enough with it running to fill it up yet lol
 

vegas39

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Did anyone mention the fuel pickup assembly? I know it was an issue on the older trucks, dont know about the 92's.

The fuel pickup tends to fall apart in the tank and when you get down to about 1/4 tank, the truck dies.

I read through the rest of the posts real fast, so if someone already mentioned it, then I'm sorry.
 

Goofyexponent

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Is it the front or rear wire on the driver side of the pump, there is 2 wires

The shut off is on the driver side of the pump. The rear wire is the cold start timing advance and the high idle is the thrid wire on the plunger on the front of the pump,

Did anyone mention the fuel pickup assembly? I know it was an issue on the older trucks, dont know about the 92's.

The fuel pickup tends to fall apart in the tank and when you get down to about 1/4 tank, the truck dies.

I read through the rest of the posts real fast, so if someone already mentioned it, then I'm sorry.

No, I don't think it's been mentioned yet, but another good point! How much fuel is in the tank?
 

marblecrusher

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The shut off is on the driver side of the pump. The rear wire is the cold start timing advance and the high idle is the thrid wire on the plunger on the front of the pump,



No, I don't think it's been mentioned yet, but another good point! How much fuel is in the tank?

Well there is a red wire with a yellow stripe on the driver side, and theres another harness in front of it with two wires going to it cant tell the colors, but they are both on the driver side top of the pump, i tested the single red wire with the yellow strip so i take it that was the wrong one it went to a solenoid that moved a plunger. Also the tank is full
 

gandalf

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I've just gone through the same thing. I drove home one night after having the engine timed, and it would not start the next morning. The pump had died. See my previous posts on that subject.

The FSS wire in on the top of the pump, driver's side, toward the front of the engine. It has a spade connector. Both connectors on top have spades, but they are different sizes. The FSS has the larger spade.

I'll attach a picture of my new pump prior to installation. There are things not yet installed on the pump, but the basic configuration is there. In the picture you're looking at the driver's side of the pump. The red and yellow caps face the rear of the truck. The FSS connector is at the top of the pump, on the left in this picture.

I finally faced reality, and bought a new rebuilt pump and new injectors from Typ4. I have a happy engine again.

Hope this helps.
 

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marblecrusher

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well once i check the FSS thats about my only option left, just hate to buy new injectors and a new pump for a truck with 450,000 on it lol. What is the Typ4 place that you got your stuff from? Im looking for a cheaper way out cause the best price i can get on the pump alone from Ford is $411

-Jordan-
 
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