homelessduck
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I'm at schucks and they have no idea what I'm talking about. Anyone have a part # ?
need pollak fsv part number
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Not sure about the number but if you want one that is a direct fit, then you aren't going to get it at Shucks, they don't carry it. All they will be able to get is a universal valve that you will have to butcher your harness and fool with wires for a while to figuer out how to wire it uop. If you want plug and play, yu are going to have to go to the dealer and spend $$$
Now is a great time to ditch that setup and install manual valves
Now is a great time to ditch that setup and install manual valves
Cincinnati Guy
Registered User
Can someone show me what your all talking about when you refer to manual valves?
itsacrazyasian
residentcrazyasian
i have two of these.
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/products/4630-multiple-tank-draw-valves.html
Mine have the click stops so i know where the valves are positioned and not half way. Mine are mounted on the transmission tunnel cover with two pieces of clear fuel rated hose so i can see my fuel change from WMO to bio. I had a serious problem with contamination so as soon as i see the fuel in the return change over i switch the return valve over.
One valve controls feed from the tanks, the other controls return. so i can make sure as much bio returns to my front tank and wmo to the rear. No mixing. No hard starts trying to start my motor on a mix of both.
itsacrazyasian
residentcrazyasian
btw the delco number for the universal 6 port valve (which happens to have a pollack in the box with the harness) is U7001
homelessduck
Full Access Member
I ended up getting a BW Fsv3 , which is supposedly for a Chevy . It says Pollak on it and looks identical to the ones people are using for this application.. No wiring harness or plug was included , now I get to be creative with the plug .. It was $60. I wanted to switch to a manual setup but I don't have a vehicle at the moment so I can't really piece one together .
itsacrazyasian
residentcrazyasian
its why i bought the delco one. i was retrofitting my truck from gas to diesel so i needed a harness. Can't just run on one tank till you get the right valve or switch to manual?
homelessduck
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The only tank with fuel in it is the front tank and I ripped the return line nipple from that tank . It does have a life time warranty , but I'm still going to ditch it as soon as possible . I just had a ride to the store for parts and had to jump on it .
MIDNIGHT RIDER
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https://www.flowline.net/default.aspx?page=item detail&itemcode=6747
I use two of ^^^ these ^^^.
Part # 6747 4-way THREE-TANK valves.
They look exactly like those pictured by crazyasion, except that they have a fourth position/outlet, thus are capable of switching between three separate tanks.
The four positions are TANK-1, TANK-2, TANK-3, and OFF.
I highly recommend the four-position valves be bought, even if only two tanks are currently used, as that extra outlet allows for possible changes later.
A simple pipe-plug can close the extra port until it is needed.
I would shoot anyone I caught trying to swap a shiny-new electric valve onto my truck; they are
pure junk. MIDNIGHT RIDER
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Not meaning to come off as sarcastic, but how is a new electric tank valve going to improve the situation you just described over just running a direct line bypass around the valve ??
If the empty tank is operable, you could TEMPORARILY plumb a DRAW line from the tank with fuel and a RETURN line to the other tank.
When the tank with the faulty return nipple is emptied into the other tank, then the DRAW line could be swapped over to that tank.
A couple foot of 5/16 and 3/8 hose, plus a few clamps, and you would be in business.
homelessduck
Full Access Member
Not meaning to come off as sarcastic, but how is a new electric tank valve going to improve the situation you just described over just running a direct line bypass around the valve ??
If the empty tank is operable, you could TEMPORARILY plumb a DRAW line from the tank with fuel and a RETURN line to the other tank.
When the tank with the faulty return nipple is emptied into the other tank, then the DRAW line could be swapped over to that tank.
A couple foot of 5/16 and 3/8 hose, plus a few clamps, and you would be in business.
I honestly didn't think about that .. you are correct , that would work . Maybe I'll just do that and return the efsv when the truck is back together..
bike-maker
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With manual valves and an electric pump, you can transfer fuel between the tanks without leaving the driver's seat......
homelessduck
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I fully intend on switching to manual valves . I read on another thread that if the fsv says pollak on it , its not factory . Mine says both Ford and Pollak (?) Also , before I cut the lines... I know some fuel will come out , but it won't dump the whole tank on me will it ? It still has the hard plastic lines, I was going to slip fuel hose over it with clamps for now ..
MIDNIGHT RIDER
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If you work quick, you won't get much of a fuel bath.
The fuel won't come gushing out of there, but it will slowly eventually siphon the whole tank out on the ground; this holds true for both the DRAWs and the RETURNs.
I left a return line dis-connected one night, WITH the main draw lines shut completely OFF, and that open return line siphoned probably five gallons out on the shop floor.
Plain old rubber line is a perfect slip-over fit on the plastic lines.
Slide at least six inches of rubber line over each plastic line and double-clamp.
Don't get carried away with torqueing the clamps; else you will collapse the plastic line.
The fuel won't come gushing out of there, but it will slowly eventually siphon the whole tank out on the ground; this holds true for both the DRAWs and the RETURNs.
I left a return line dis-connected one night, WITH the main draw lines shut completely OFF, and that open return line siphoned probably five gallons out on the shop floor.
Plain old rubber line is a perfect slip-over fit on the plastic lines.
Slide at least six inches of rubber line over each plastic line and double-clamp.
Don't get carried away with torqueing the clamps; else you will collapse the plastic line.
I don't know if it was you or someone else, but the idea of using a pump to fill the front tank with the rear tank seemed a little rube goldberg to me, until I discovered where I work that GM uses this idea on some of their trucks. We have a large 1 1/2 ton GM diesel dump truck(has a pickup frontend on it), and it has some sort of computer board that controls a electric pump, and that is how it works; it fills the front tank by drawing it out of the rear tank. The engine always uses the front tank.
This idea seems simple and interesting, but I can't figure out how you can stop the transfer system before it overfills the front tank. As the fuel gauge starts getting near the empty mark, it would be very tempting to go ahead and start filling the front tank with the rear, and if you started too early, the rear tank could overfill the front, unless you possibly could run a overflow pipe from the filler neck back to the rear tank?
Of course the GM system has sensors or uses the sending unit along with the computer board to control the filling.
