Need help with my rear end.... Hehe

[MontanaJack]

So I started getting a noticeable vibration when I'd drive between 55 and 65. I checked the pinion nut and it was loose. I tightened it up and it got better but didn't go away. I read you're supposed change the crush sleeve when you do that. So I opened it back up put in a new bearing, new crush sleeve, and new seal. Tightened to 160 ft lb. it's not even close to mating the pinion up correctly! all new parts and it's worse than before. I can turn the yoke by hand almost an inch now and it pulls the pinion in and out. What the crap!!!

Does it sound like I've got the wrong crush sleeve? Anyone happen to know the correct part #? I'm super frustrated

 

[franklin2]

They say you need to use a torque wrench capable of at least 225 ftlbs. Keep going beyond 160 ft lbs till the specified drag is reached. This is even higher for a Dana rearend.

Don't know why you didn't just use the old sleeve. It's done all the time, it's all I do. Just tighten it back up and drive on. If it keeps coming loose, your splines are probably worn. This lets the yoke work back and forth on the splines, which loosens the nut over time. A little locktight can help the situation.

 

[IDIoit]

you say you changed the bearing, did you change the race too?

 

[MontanaJack]

I tried reusing the old sleeve at first but was highly cautioned not to as there is a good chance the bearing won't seat again and the sleeve will just float around doing nothing. I might try it again though if I can't get this working right.

I did find out that I've got the right part but it takes 500-700 ft lbs to start crushing the sleeve. Yikes! Most guys use a lift and stand under the truck with a six foot cheater. I might try using a press to get it started and then install it. We'll see. Any ideas are welcome though. And thanks for the quick reply.

Keep in mind I'm working with a limited set of hand tools and an even more limited brain. I've never done or learned anything about differentials before, so this is all new, and mostly Greek to me.

By the way it's a Ford(VanDyke) 10.25 rear end.

 

[MontanaJack]

you say you changed the bearing, did you change the race too?

I bought one, but I couldn't get the old one out. There wasn't anything wrong with either the bearing or race but I figured since I had it apart I might as well put some new stuff in.

So it's a new bearing on the old race. Do you think that's a bad idea? If so any suggestions on getting the old race out?

 

[BDCarrillo]

I welded up some 1" square tube into a holder for the yoke that pushed into the ground, and used a jack on a cheater pipe to tighten it up. Proper measurement for pinion preload is only around 15 inch pounds to keep it spinning. I don't remember the exact number...

Once that sleeve starts, it goes quick!! It can be a royal pain to get the preload just right. Go too far, and you get to start with a new crush sleeve.

There's also a differential preload without axles in measured by spinning the pinion. That one is between 30-45 inch pounds... But I'd look up the exact #.

Old race+new bearing could be bad news if there's any wear. There are pullers for the job. How did you get the pinion bearing off?? They should be press fit...

Jacking, kludging, or over shadetreeing this stuff up will get you a chewed up pinion, bad funky wear on the ring gear, and chomp marks in the diff.

 

[MontanaJack]

That sounds like Im supposed to have a way of measuring preload on the pinion and like something I wish I understood how to do

 

[BDCarrillo]

Measure pinion preload by starting pinion yoke rotation by hand then use an inch-lb torque wrench to apply force (to keep it spinning). Whatever number you have to set the torque wrench at to get it to click is your pinion preload. Repeat with the diff carrier in place to verify that the shims are applying the right preload.

A dial indicator torque wrench is easier, but they are hard to find.

You're basically measuring the rolling resistance of the pinion bearing, NOT the initial resistance from a dead stop.

FYSA: The info I'm providing is specific to the sterling family. I got to do this in a 2009 10.5" sterling because some fugger swapped gears and cheaped out on a new sleeve and seal

 

[franklin2]

That's the problem with doing it the "right" way, you really need to pull the brakes and possibly the axles so the drag from them won't mess up your drag readings on the pinion. So most people go the "right" direction trying to do the "right" thing only not doing it 100% right. So there is really no purpose in doing it that way in my opinion. I don't even have a wrench that measures inch/pounds.
If you tighten the old sleeve up as tight as you can get it with a normal breaker bar or a ratchet with a short piece of pipe on it, that always worked for me. Unless you are a gorilla, you won't be able to over-tighten it under the truck tugging on a breaker bar.

The last one I did I used a impact on it, and let it hit a few times to tighten it. Everyone went off the deep end when I mentioned doing that, and I agree if you pound on it too much with a good impact on high you probably could get it too tight, you have to judge it. But I think you will be safe with a short cheater under muscle power.

 

[BDCarrillo]

No need to mess with brakes on the Sterlings, just pull the axles out about 6".

With a NEW sleeve, it has to be done to factory specs to get the proper crush. With an OLD sleeve, you can tighten it up as Franklin2 said (but I wouldn't mix in a new bearing with the old sleeve). I'm guilty of using an impact gun as well to snug them up carefully.

 

[IDIoit]

remember folks. the crush on the sleeve is only to set the pinion in the pinion housing.
this is only half of the equation.
this is done with 2 bearings, shims and a crush sleeve(typical application)

to do things CORRECTLY, one must also inspect the gear contact pattern and back lash.

when you start mixing combos of bearings, races, and sleeves, thousandths of an inch matters greatly.

if im going to mess with a rearend, im only using all old components for a quick fix, or all new parts.

this is a major part of our vehicle.

if you doubt yourself, i suggest employing a qualified mechanic to deal with this issue, which is not cheap.

or simply find another rearend.
i have destroyed many of rearends in the attempt to do this myself. most failures are not pretty.

 

[franklin2]

The crush sleeve only sets the pre-load on the pinion bearings. If you do not disturb anything else, it should be ok. That's why they are telling you to measure the drag on the pinion shaft, that's measuring the tension or pre-load between the two bearings. You are not checking gear patterns or anything like that.

 

[BDCarrillo]

On the sterlings it DOES set the pinion depth... Focused so much on the bearings I forgot about mentioning that earlier...

 

[MontanaJack]

Does it matter that mine is not a Sterling? According to the tag it a VanDyke. Are they one in the same?

 

[BDCarrillo]

Thats where sterlings are made.

Kinda like Dearborn for older Mustangs...

I'm not aware of any other axle being used for your year in 2wd applications