Need help with my rear end.... Hehe

franklin2

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MontanaJack

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Dear god! $110? You've got to really like spending money to get that bearing. Cool idea though.

So instead of making my own yoke holder and getting a 3/4 breaker bar with a six foot cheater, I came up with a pretty simple way.

I just used a pipe wrench to hold the yoke, and let my shop floor do the holding on that end. Then, I took my 1/2" ratchet and the 1 1/8" socket put it on the pinion nut, and stuck my floor Jack under the ratchet handle. Up and down a couple dozen times, but very little physical strain on me. Now all I've got to do is find an inch lb torque wrench to check my pinion preload and I should be golden.
 

riotwarrior

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One way to eliminate crush sleeve is a CSEK or crush sleeve eliminator kit. Then you will not have an issue with it losening off due to wear or loose splines ass easkly as the crush sleeve does.

At this point though it is well beyond the norm and uou had better know how and waht you are doing to install it correctly.

IMHO the mix of new earing old race is bad idea but...whats done is done.

Done wrong the pinion nut backs off and then slides deeper into the case ans chews some nice marks into the carrier....some fugly ***** when that happens yuppers sure is...

Replacing the 2 dollar pinion jut with new is good idea as is staking it or a wee spot weld...cant losen then....

LCAM is quite knowledgable about this stuff and has assisted many. I knkw whats going on and how too but damned if I can articulate a particular feel...over a forum...

Search CSEK here and you will find some good info on these diffs.

Speacial bearings my ass...take a reg bearing and brake hone and hone that ***** out....make yer own setup bearings but better be doing a few diffs to warrant it..otherwise spend money on pro wrench to do the work...a pro who knows this stuff...ya well worth it!

Good luck
 

IDIoit

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for the novice, that bearing would save him some well worth while headaches.
but i see these rearends go for 100-200 on CL
 

franklin2

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My point of showing the bearing was that there are shims that set the pinion depth, not the sleeve. I never would buy the bearing either. Looking for that example I also ran across the few problems the first version Sterling had;

1. The splined area that the pinion yoke slides up on is inadequate for the loads, that's why it likes to loosen and that's why Ford upgraded this in version 2 with a longer splined area and longer larger modified yoke.

2. I kept running across reported problems with the pinion gear itself. Of course the guys doing the heavy towing are going to have the 4.10 and higher gear ratios, and this made the pinion gear very small. Apparently a few people have had the pinion fail towing heavy loads with it. They claimed that's the reason why Ford went to the 10.5 rearend, this made the ring gear larger so the pinion could be a little larger for the same gear ratio.

3. There was also mention of some spider gear problems, especially with running very large tires. Something about a kit you can get with a third spider gear to help this.
 

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