Need a lil help 93 n/a parts

[Jason1377]

In the pictures below it's passenger side postive terminal need to replace on ebay I seen the like $40 not checked at scrapyard.

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now small red wire not sure where that goes besides the fender solenoid does it go to the starter.

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the wires on the fender solenoid can some one explain to be what all those are picture below I'm trying to figure a way to clean wires up/run a post button for gp. also any one know the length of the og battery cables

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P.s any way to get away from the og plastic off the air filter

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Thanks for all the help

 

[riphip]

That has been over-heated pretty bad. May wanna try a replacement cable. Not sure of the guage wire on this one: https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/MC/5270-07113590.html
Never crank down on the cable clamps. Get a Good battery connector cleaner kit and some Dielectric grease. Take the bolts out and Greazem so they do not lock up, clean posts and clamps for good connection, Greazem & clamp snug. I have had to replace on 2 of my truck. You will loose some wire length on those over-heated cables.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

P.s any way to get away from the og plastic off the air filter

If you mean off of the air cleaner, then it should just pull off.

 

[My1500DollarTruck]

For the air intake funnel, some take them off . Some say leave them on due to they actually help cool the air being sucked in. I leave mine on.

 

[Jason1377]

If you mean off of the air cleaner, then it should just pull off.

For the air intake funnel, some take them off . Some say leave them on due to they actually help cool the air being sucked in. I leave mine on.

@IDIBRONCO meant what @My1500DollarTruck was saying air intake plastic if I had any benefit taking it off or a way to redirect it since it right above the driver side battery n becomes a pain in the **** when replacing batteries.

Thanks though fellas.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

@IDIBRONCO meant what @My1500DollarTruck was saying air intake plastic if I had any benefit taking it off or a way to redirect it since it right above the driver side battery n becomes a pain in the **** when replacing batteries.

Thanks though fellas.

Its definitely helpful and should be left in place. Its not a restriction and the cool air helps with power and MPGs. Every little bit helps.

The PO of my pickup left the hold down bolt out of that intake funnel and that makes it a cinch to remove for any reason. And it will not wiggle out of its spot, either, I had mine totally un-bolted for 7-8 years and it never moved a bit due to that metal hook where the passenger side bolt goes through.

For your cables you might buy marine terminal adaptors and cut the old cable and crimp marine lugs on the ends of the cables. That's only if the copper is clean when you cut it. If not, new cables for sure. And follow the above advice from @riphip to keep them from corroding.

 

[Jason1377]

For your cables you might buy marine terminal adaptors and cut the old cable and crimp marine lugs on the ends of the cables. That's only if the copper is clean when you cut it. If not, new cables for sure. And follow the above advice from @riphip to keep them from corroding.

I'm a little confused as to this if I cut the wire n use the Marine style lugs will that cause a issue on the passenger side we need it has the driver side/fender solenoid/starter postive wires to it.

Also can u post a picture if possible n ive gone thru two battery replacements n was suggested my alternator might be throwing to much power any way to check that n I've read tech files didnt see it.

A interstate battery bought at a dealership of interstate tested a replacement battery thru them n said the cca rated was 950 n the factory lable was only supposed to be 850.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

I'm a little confused as to this if I cut the wire n use the Marine style lugs will that cause a issue on the passenger side we need it has the driver side/fender solenoid/starter postive wires to it.

What issue do you foresee? You need to convert the solenoid wire to a marine lug as well, of course. Length can become an issue if you don't cut the wires tight to the OEM lead bit.

Also can u post a picture if possible n ive gone thru two battery replacements n was suggested my alternator might be throwing to much power any way to check that n I've read tech files didnt see it.

Picture below. The alternator can't put out too many amps, but if the regulator is toast it can pump out too many volts, which will ruin batteries. With the engine running after you've revved it over 1500rpm check the voltage at the battery terminals with a voltmeter. Should read 13.5v-14.3v. Over or under that and your regulator is most likely shot. Alternators rarely fail compared to regulators.

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Please ignore the electrical tape on the big wires. Instead use adhesive shrink wrap for that. I made those connections before I knew what the best way was.

 

[Jason1377]

Will this work I seen it on eBay when I searched marine style cables picture below it has two crimp ends on it. As far as electric tape um nope might as well use flex tape lol.

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[Oledirtypearl86]

Will this work I seen it on eBay when I searched marine style cables picture below it has two crimp ends on it. As far as electric tape um nope might as well use flex tape lol.

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I don't see why those won't work and I use shrink wrap tubing on a lot of my electrical connections

 

[Jason1377]

I don't see why those won't work and I use shrink wrap tubing on a lot of my electrical connections

Awesome I'll invest in set.

To add more to this took a picture of what I believe is my IP but wondering what this bolt surrounded by plastic is see pic below also not sure this would work in a pinch but is flex/gorilla tape fuel grade say if a fuel hose cracks or radiator hose n ur not close to a parts store or forget spares.

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as for the pic what tool is used for it n what's the plastic around it for since it gets dirty.

Pic below is what that is on the back of n the front hose has a pin hole in it.

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