Nice
My Turbo Tale
- Thread starter mblaney
- Start date
Macrobb
Full Access Member
That wastegate burn hole is what happens when you get too close to the glow plug controller with a wrench and touch the big power stud and the wastegate actuator with said wrench. Nice big sparks. That, or removing the bolts holding the GPC in place and touching it directly.
Of course, if you disconnected the batteries first, it wouldn't happen, but... who ever does that?
Of course, if you disconnected the batteries first, it wouldn't happen, but... who ever does that?
mblaney
Full Access Member
That makes sense... couldn't see anyone using that as a ground for boosting it.
My GP controller is on the other side of the engine bay so can't happen.@chillman88 yes it will go back on the dyno.
Took it apart last night, the Dynomax y-pipe is off intact, manifold studs came out relatively easy. Oil feed adapter is switched, turbo grommet installed... I am ready to install the lower up pipe tonight and do a dry fit for firewall clearance. Overall this is going very smooth! Maybe too good, just waiting for the
03wr250f
Full Access Member
You seem to be doing a stellar job, and it seems to be coming together nicely. I love the auber gauge install that is slick!
Are you going to turn the fuel up before the dyno, during, or after. I honestly would be very interested to see what power you make not turning up the fuel, just installing the turbo.
I would suggest you take a screwdriver to the valley pan, and punch a few holes. I hope you already know this if you have been waiting years to turbo, but if not I hope to save you a headache down the road!
Are you going to turn the fuel up before the dyno, during, or after. I honestly would be very interested to see what power you make not turning up the fuel, just installing the turbo.
I would suggest you take a screwdriver to the valley pan, and punch a few holes. I hope you already know this if you have been waiting years to turbo, but if not I hope to save you a headache down the road!
mblaney
Full Access Member
My plan is to turn up fuel before the dyno; I don't want to use up a lot of his shop time. I think it will be easier to load my tractor on the float and give it a good long pull and watch EGT's. The dyno run will be too short to really do that.
I did not know about the extra drain holes! Just in time too, will punch some this morning.
Not too much progress last night; got the lower up pipe installed, some extra firewall hammering. Buddy showed up for some craft beers and a bottle of Jacks, that finished my evening.
The Mrs brought some chicken wings home so switched gears:
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Light up the wood grill
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Sorry for off topic but I didn't have any useful truck **** to share! Too damn cold this morning (-7C) so waiting a bit before getting back at it.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
It's a good thing that finished the evening right after he showed up for beers and Jack. Otherwise that could have caused you a headache pretty quickly.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Pfft, I don't even unhook them for a starter swap anymore.
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mblaney
Full Access Member
It was a long weekend but the turbo is in!
Exhaust installation... Last fall I put a Dynomax on the truck so the downpipe has to adapt to that. I used a digital angle finder on my pallet engine and calculated that a 30 degree elbow should be pretty close. I also decided to add a flex pipe and to use band clamps for serviceability. My Summit racing order (the old looking piece is the Dyomax pipe that goes into the muffler):
I prewrapped the downpipe where it came closest to the firewall. Totally screwed up though and does not color match the wrap from R&D's crossover. Almost scrapped the whole project...
Llots of clearance with the firewall flange. I found the firewall easy to notch and flatten; I still need to get some paint and rustproofing on the cuts.
One "problem" is the Banks downpipe takes a 2.75" pipe inside... outside diameter was some funky dimension that did not any adapters I had... but managed to sleeve it with a piece of 3" pipe. Elbow fit perfect!
Done! The 30 degree elbow was perfect, it was a straight shot back to the muffler. Looks a little messy with the band clamps.
This pic from the top down is downpipe, elbow, flex pipe, exhaust line running to the muffler. I fabbed up a stainless hanger that used the original rubber mount.
Exhaust installation... Last fall I put a Dynomax on the truck so the downpipe has to adapt to that. I used a digital angle finder on my pallet engine and calculated that a 30 degree elbow should be pretty close. I also decided to add a flex pipe and to use band clamps for serviceability. My Summit racing order (the old looking piece is the Dyomax pipe that goes into the muffler):
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I prewrapped the downpipe where it came closest to the firewall. Totally screwed up though and does not color match the wrap from R&D's crossover. Almost scrapped the whole project...
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Llots of clearance with the firewall flange. I found the firewall easy to notch and flatten; I still need to get some paint and rustproofing on the cuts.
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One "problem" is the Banks downpipe takes a 2.75" pipe inside... outside diameter was some funky dimension that did not any adapters I had... but managed to sleeve it with a piece of 3" pipe. Elbow fit perfect!
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Done! The 30 degree elbow was perfect, it was a straight shot back to the muffler. Looks a little messy with the band clamps.
This pic from the top down is downpipe, elbow, flex pipe, exhaust line running to the muffler. I fabbed up a stainless hanger that used the original rubber mount.
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mblaney
Full Access Member
Now that the turbo and exhaust are done I worked on the dipstick. Picked up some 3/4 steel tube and use the turkey fryer to heat it up to bend.
Looks easy but this required 503 trips back and forth
to get it to fit correctly. There is very little room to fit this!
This tube is longer than the original so I cut and soldered in an extension. I also ground down the rubber seal so the handle would seat properly. This tube is heavier wall than the original.
The mount for this was also a PITA... probably two hours to get the fit right. I put a stainless bracket on the top of the bell housing and a jubilee clamp to hold together. The bottom of the tube is sealed to the tranny using permatex gasket maker.
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Looks easy but this required 503 trips back and forth
to get it to fit correctly. There is very little room to fit this!This tube is longer than the original so I cut and soldered in an extension. I also ground down the rubber seal so the handle would seat properly. This tube is heavier wall than the original.
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The mount for this was also a PITA... probably two hours to get the fit right. I put a stainless bracket on the top of the bell housing and a jubilee clamp to hold together. The bottom of the tube is sealed to the tranny using permatex gasket maker.
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mblaney
Full Access Member
ALMOST THERE! CDR is the last major detail. I did not want to install this on the valve cover so went with a Banks setup on the IP cover. As previously mentioned I scrapped the vacuum pump so that opened up a nice location for installing the CDR. I had to modify my IP cover fitting for a lower angle but this worked awesome.
I don't like where the intake spigot is on the back of the intake, I will modify the intake and put one on the front. This is very fugly but for now I ran a 1" hose from the front-mounted CDR around the intake
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I don't like where the intake spigot is on the back of the intake, I will modify the intake and put one on the front. This is very fugly but for now I ran a 1" hose from the front-mounted CDR around the intake
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mblaney
Full Access Member
Done! Will it run? I turned the IP up three flats first... screw turned relatively easy and then seemed to bottom out so I left it there. Truck fired up like nothing had happened. I let it warm up while searching for leaks, tools, and other spare parts. Boost gauge does show a slight positive pressure . The best thing I notice immediately is that the truck (cab) is quiet! The droning noise is gone
Now for the "seat of the pants". I was not sure what to expect - a tire burner or just a little more pull - it definitely has more pep but I am not blown away. I really want to try this with a load. I do notice that I use less pedal during normal acceleration.
Maximum boost I saw was 8psi, max egt was 850. I will be checking timing tonight to see where it's at. I think it can take more fuel but I suspect the IP is maxed.
Previously I had timed myself (0-100KpH or 0-60mph) at 19 seconds (slower than the second coming of Christ). New time is 14.5
I will be checking mileage, plus visiting the dyno once final adjustments are done.
Thanks for reading!
. The best thing I notice immediately is that the truck (cab) is quiet! The droning noise is gone Now for the "seat of the pants". I was not sure what to expect - a tire burner or just a little more pull - it definitely has more pep but I am not blown away. I really want to try this with a load. I do notice that I use less pedal during normal acceleration.
Maximum boost I saw was 8psi, max egt was 850. I will be checking timing tonight to see where it's at. I think it can take more fuel but I suspect the IP is maxed.
Previously I had timed myself (0-100KpH or 0-60mph) at 19 seconds (slower than the second coming of Christ). New time is 14.5
I will be checking mileage, plus visiting the dyno once final adjustments are done.
Thanks for reading!
david85
Full Access Member
I don't like where the intake spigot is on the back of the intake, I will modify the intake and put one on the front. This is very fugly but for now I ran a 1" hose from the front-mounted CDR around the intake
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Looks fine to me. That's a perfectly viable alternative to knocking a hole in the valve cover for the ATS kits. If you really want to split hairs, you could always make a bent steel tube like you did for the trans filler
mblaney
Full Access Member
Looks fine to me. That's a perfectly viable alternative to knocking a hole in the valve cover for the ATS kits. If you really want to split hairs, you could always make a bent steel tube like you did for the trans filler
Hmmm... I had started to make a tight elbow from some 1" stainless tube but it was getting late, I needed a quick fix. I just didn't like the way the heavy 1" hose was crammed under the filter housing. I will work something out.
pastorjeep
Full Access Member
Clean install, looking forward to the dyno results. What kind of condition is the turbo long block in?
03wr250f
Full Access Member
OH MY THAT LOOKS GREAT!!!! I especially love the way you did the downpipe routing, but that is because I need to rework mine. all of your work looks absolutely stellar. I am looking forward to how it all turns out as well.
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