Well I guess it's true. what can go wrong, will. While doing my water pump gasket I realized, after I got it on, That the oil leak I thought was the lift pump gasket was actually a bolt that was stripped out at the bottom of the water pump that goes into the oil. On top of that I stripped one of the top ones that go into the oil. So now I get to take it off again. Get a new gasket again. And drill and tap the holes to the next size up. Fun is
Murphy's law
- Thread starter S-west
- Start date
FordGuy100
Registered User
I've had to do the same thing, sorry bud!
redneckaggie
rebel w/o a cause
I would not drill and tap the next size up but rather helicoil the holes, less chance of drilling into another passage. jm2cw
redneckaggie
rebel w/o a cause
http://www.helicoil.in/
Basically you drill just a little larger hole and tap with the tap provided in a heli-coil kit. Then you thread the insert into the tapped hole, this will allow you to use the same sized bolt upon replacement
Basically you drill just a little larger hole and tap with the tap provided in a heli-coil kit. Then you thread the insert into the tapped hole, this will allow you to use the same sized bolt upon replacement
redneckaggie
rebel w/o a cause
I had to go to carquest to get them locally oreillys and autozone didnt have them. If you have a reputable fastener dealer in your area they should have it
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Is the timing plate thick enough for a helicoil??
redneckaggie
rebel w/o a cause
i have put heli coils in 3/8s thick tapped holes and just sanded away excess with a die grinder without bad results. Of course I didnt put 100 ft lbs of torque on those either.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
I wasn't sure, As I haven't used them. Are the timeserts any good?
redneckaggie
rebel w/o a cause
never used that particular brand but a quick google got me this website
http://www.timesert.com/
I have used something like them called keenserts but if I see that picture correctly having the bottom threads as locks. I would think having that would ruin the external threads and make the insert harder to thread in but this is just speculation the flanged face would also be more of a pain than a help as generally things need to be flush mounted and that would hold them up
The below link shows keenserts and I most definately prefer them to heli-coils but I have only found keenserts availible online or at commercial supply stores so I normally dont suggest them because they are hard to find. They reccomend to counter sink the hole but I generally just grind any excess above the hole off, just make sure you thread enough in so that you dont have to grind the lock tangs off. They use standard size threads so you just need a normal tap and not the special heli-coil tap. And they are stout. I have installed countless numbers of these and have yet to see one tear up that wasnt ruined by idiotic behaviour. matter of fact I have only seen two faill and those were because the operator of the machine tried to thread the bolts with a 1" impact and ended up crossthreading the bolts
http://www.newmantools.com/kee.htm
http://www.timesert.com/
I have used something like them called keenserts but if I see that picture correctly having the bottom threads as locks. I would think having that would ruin the external threads and make the insert harder to thread in but this is just speculation the flanged face would also be more of a pain than a help as generally things need to be flush mounted and that would hold them up
The below link shows keenserts and I most definately prefer them to heli-coils but I have only found keenserts availible online or at commercial supply stores so I normally dont suggest them because they are hard to find. They reccomend to counter sink the hole but I generally just grind any excess above the hole off, just make sure you thread enough in so that you dont have to grind the lock tangs off. They use standard size threads so you just need a normal tap and not the special heli-coil tap. And they are stout. I have installed countless numbers of these and have yet to see one tear up that wasnt ruined by idiotic behaviour. matter of fact I have only seen two faill and those were because the operator of the machine tried to thread the bolts with a 1" impact and ended up crossthreading the bolts
http://www.newmantools.com/kee.htm
GenLightening
Yeah, it's a CHEVY!
+1 on the Keenserts.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Those keenserts do look pretty good. The timeserts need countersunk also. They have a special drill bit for them. I researched them when I was repairing a glowplug hole. But I made my own repair "bushing."
Knuckledragger
blowing chunks and grabbing porcelain
However you do the repair, I would suggest taking off the timing cover to do it. If not, you have a tough time drilling and threading for inserts or helicoil (my preference). You may want to check it for flatness too. If the former bolts were on so tight, it may have been because of leaks due to a warped timing cover. They are not very rugged, and pretty thin to boot.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Heres the deal with the top and bottom 2 bolt holes. Behind that thin plate is some spot welded thin square nuts. They are the threaded part that the bolts screw into. At no time is there any threads in the thin timing cover or water pump cover as some call it. I have found these square nuts are soft material too. Mike makes a very good point about removing the cover to make new threads. If that cover is removed you will need a dampner remover installer. Never attempt pulling the dampner by the outer rubber mounted rim. You will pull it off the inner wheel and thats a bad thing. International and Ford offer the special gaskets needed to the block to cover seal. In that kit is also a water pump gasket. I don't recal if a crank dampner seal is also included or not.
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