Much difference with steering stabilizer?

[TNBrett]

I appreciate the reply. You're advice is not irritating at all. I have ordered a new rag joint in hopes this one was just not a good one that I got. I really appreciate the feedback on the steering stabilizer. Exactly the advise and response I was looking for so you've save me from spending money on something that wouldn't have worked. Thank You!

I also ordered a new drag link because I found that there looked like there was some play at the joint where it connects to the pitman arm. Bought a TRW brand that was made in the USA. Unfortunately tho the joint is tight and the old one was loose. When I have my wife sit in the truck and rock the wheel back and forth the pitman arm moves slightly before the drag link starts to move. Maybe this is normal as there has to be a lot of force pushing sideways on a joint that wants to rotate in it's socket rather than pushing the shaft sideways. I'm sure when driving there is probably less "slop" since not as much force is required to turn a rolling tire. Wondering if anyone else has noticed this tho?

What you’re describing with the original drag link is worn out. That is how I like to check all the tie rod/ drag link ends. The new one being tight is normal and correct. A lot of times they are nearly impossible to move by hand when new. There is a disc spring inside to preload them.

Oftentimes issues with loose steering on these trucks, or any vehicle for that matter, is a result of many items having small amounts of wear. Half a degree here, .020” there, and a crapped out rubber bushing over there all add up to a death grip on the steering wheel when you get passed by a semi on the interstate. That’s why you hear some people recommend just replacing everything at once.


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[The_Josh_Bear]

You might try shimming the play out of the slip joint of your steering shaft first until you can afford a Borgeson. There is a YouTube that shows how to do it.

+1

What you’re describing with the original drag link is worn out. That is how I like to check all the tie rod/ drag link ends. The new one being tight is normal and correct. A lot of times they are nearly impossible to move by hand when new. There is a disc spring inside to preload them.

Oftentimes issues with loose steering on these trucks, or any vehicle for that matter, is a result of many items having small amounts of wear. Half a degree here, .020” there, and a crapped out rubber bushing over there all add up to a death grip on the steering wheel when you get passed by a semi on the interstate. That’s why you hear some people recommend just replacing everything at once.


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+1

Great advice! I also have the redhead steering gear and chased wandering issues. Tightening up the slip shaft was the last thing I did and maybe made the most difference. Holds a lane better than my Toyota corolla now(which is stupid easy to drive and tracks great). This was after all the tie rods, ball joints, spring bushings, etc.

 

[papadiesel]

Even with all new parts, etc, many early f250 and F350 with TTB front ends came from the factory with a steering stabilizer. My 89 4x4 with 44hd TTB does ok without, but noticable with one. Had it on for 5 years (single shock type Hijacker). I have had larger with and without, solid and loose front TTB and it does make a difference I also replaced all bushings with urethane and the ride and handling is like new without much harshness increased. It is a truck not a Cadillac after all right?