Manual glow plug switch amps.

Farmer Rock

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As I recall, I just ran ground through a momentary switch to the proper connection on the relay, with the one from the controller disconnected so it was reversible by just redoing the connections.
Ok, I see it what you mean. So your controller is still functional, but the push button is an override so to speak?


Rock
 

Cubey

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Ok, I see it what you mean. So your controller is still functional, but the push button is an override so to speak?


Rock

The controller was disconnected so it can't do anything, but I didn't chop off the connector like the link i posted says to do. I just wrapped it in electrical tape. It can be put back easily in place of the manual button. Just listen for the big click of the relay when you press and release the button to know it's working. I didn't mess with the WTS light/wire.
 

Big Bart

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A couple of thoughts.

1) Some use a starter solenoid and by-pass the old system completely.
2) From what I have seen some members with 6.9’s just wire to the existing solenoid. (Some call it a relay, but to me it’s a repackaged starter solenoid.)
3) Some use/reutilize the top solenoid on the 7.3 controller/solenoid system, by making it a manual ground. As I recall the 12+ is powered with key on.(Turning on the key starts the automatic timer.) The ground is what the controller uses to activate the solenoid top part and turn on the glow plugs. So folks can use a switched ground to that post to turn the solenoid portion manually on and off.

Some used a flip switch and regretted when it stayed on by accident. So as mentioned above momentary makes it more idiot proof.
 
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Cubey

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I dig up the pics I took in 2017.

The wire and switch I used:
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I ran it red so it would be more visible, but it's ground. The white wire with electrical tape to the right of the thin red wire is what comes from the controller. Just disconnected the white wire and ran ground through the momentary switch to the connection the white wire was on. That's the bare minimum needed to make it work.

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Big Bart

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This is the style of switch that I use, not exactly the same as mine but very similar. supposedly rated for 50a but theres no way to know if it can actually hold 50a

https://www.amazon.com/JahyShow-Heavy-Duty-Momentary-Push-Button-Starter/dp/B0781GDMXQ
My boat has a Yanmar Diesel engine. Engine is set to start and run when cranked over. Uses that same style water resistent temporary switch to run a soleniod that dumps the IP pressure and kills the engine. It’s great as if you loose power out at sea the engine does not die and leave you stranded. Yet you can manually push the kill lever if you do loose power and shut the engine off.

(Unlike a IDI that needs constant power to the IP solenoid in order to run.)
 
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Selahdoor

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Here is a quick diagram of my own GP relay setup.

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The relay is a 400 amp rated relay.
The pushbutton switch is exactly the same switch that Cubey used.
The fuse is a 10 amp fuse.

I have had zero problems with this setup if you don't count the cheapo quality of the newer beru glow plugs. I believe I have some that are not working already, after less than a year of use. And used only maybe three times a month, average.

Next time, I may consider the bosch plugs.
 

Joseph Davis

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When I add any thing Electrical to cab" I buy a five wire relay kit to solve switch melt down or button melt down. It Has always been a safe route for me to take.
 

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