The blue wire is totally optional. It requires you chop it off and move it. I didn't want to, as mentioned in my original post. But unless you want the WTS light to come on when you press your manual button, you don't have to even touch it. WTS comes on for a fraction of a second when you turn the key is all, not when holding your momentary switch. That's the only side effect.
Manual glow plug button good temp fix?
- Thread starter Cubey
- Start date
The blue wire is totally optional. It requires you chop it off and move it. I didn't want to, as mentioned in my original post. But unless you want the WTS light to come on when you press your manual button, you don't have to even touch it. WTS comes on for a fraction of a second when you turn the key is all, not when holding your momentary switch. That's the only side effect.
Sidewinded_idi
Full Access Member
Just did this, super simple and easy, momentary switch on the dash to ground with wire bolted on top of white wire. Left the white wire on Incase the controller decides to work
Leaving the white undone prolongs the plug life. No firing then up when it’s warm enough to start without them.
After a few hours, mine is still warm enough usually. If it doesn’t fire up I know it needs it after all.
Sidewinded_idi
Full Access Member
That’s a good thought I may have to do that
Sidewinded_idi
Full Access Member
Wow, must say first cold start this morning no more cranking waiting for it to lite off! Usually it takes about 10 seconds of cranking, today held the button for 8-9 seconds and it fired right off thanks for the info
Mine was worse some mornings. It would take multiple rounds of cranking. But yeah this has temporarily solved this for me too. Long term, I know will have to replace them.
Sadly, it turns out this still isn’t enough for sub-45 degree temps. It almost wouldn’t start for anything this morning. It would act like it now and then, but mostly no. It sounded like an engine not getting fuel. I know that isn’t true. It has a little electric fuel pump. With the pump on, I get fuel squirting from the air purge valve when pressed in.
Either my plugs, connections or harness are too bad off. Messing with a few connections at the plugs seemed like it helped just barely enough to finally get it to fire up.
Once I get some new good 9v batteries for my good multimeter, I will get to testing the plugs. If I have to buy them now after all so be it. I can’t have it doing this all winter.
Either my plugs, connections or harness are too bad off. Messing with a few connections at the plugs seemed like it helped just barely enough to finally get it to fire up.
Once I get some new good 9v batteries for my good multimeter, I will get to testing the plugs. If I have to buy them now after all so be it. I can’t have it doing this all winter.
Last edited:
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Go ahead and replace the connectors with the blue female bullet connectors.
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Was there any smoke while cranking?
Mine is doing something similar, it's air intrusion, not glow plug issues, because I have the button also.... I have a fuel heater weeping, and more than likely need a return kit.... which is on the list....... it will hit and miss, hit an miss while cranking and the catch after 10-20 seconds of cranking, and then is thoroughly pissed off until all the air works out - chug, knock, rattle, smoke and then will even out after about 30 seconds.....
Colder temps really brings out air issues, as stuff shrinks when it gets cold, so nearly non-existent leak at 80 degrees is a very existent leak at 40..... plus, now that't its gotten colder here, (Central Indiana - 36 degrees F currently) and when I walk by the truck, it smells like diesel..... wasn't doing it when it was warm out.......
Well I guess I found my problem. I can’t even get a resistance reading on two of the plugs. That’s how bad they are.
Two or three others got around 0.5-0.6. I quit after that. It was a hot engine and it was hard to get in there.
Two or three others got around 0.5-0.6. I quit after that. It was a hot engine and it was hard to get in there.
It’s possible I suppose but less likely. I did return lines earlier this year. I didn’t look for smoke when cranking but it left a fair cloud when I took off (after idling with ever so slight throttle to help warm up the trans).
My previous post to this, just after yours, mentions no resistance readings at all on two plugs.
Yep, 0 ohms, or Infinite Ohms, indicates a bad plug...... 0 is a dead short, infinite is open..
A good plug, when cold should be a few ohms..... 3 or 4 or five ohms (or the .4 or .5 you saw depending on the rang the meter is displaying...) That's what I saw when I checked mine.....
A good plug, when cold should be a few ohms..... 3 or 4 or five ohms (or the .4 or .5 you saw depending on the rang the meter is displaying...) That's what I saw when I checked mine.....
I got OL (open line?) same as having the probes apart from each other.
The instructions I read said to set the meter below 1K. Mine has “200”, then “2K”, so I used the 200 setting.
Out of Limit
I will check them all in the morning when it’s cold, writing down the readings this time. It was too hot (180+) earlier to reach in like I needed to without cooking my fingers.
I don’t have any way to try the block heater, in case anyone was thinking about that. I don’t have a place to plug in, and my little generator is only 500W.
I don’t have any way to try the block heater, in case anyone was thinking about that. I don’t have a place to plug in, and my little generator is only 500W.
