Manual glow plug button good temp fix?

Cubey

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My thought is that cold (but not gelled) fuel just cools things down, not helping matters in a hard start situation. Warmer fuel means warmer compression when cranking a cold engine.
 

79jasper

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Would sure take a lot of cranking to Get that warmed fuel from the filter, through the I.P, then through the injectors lines, down through the injectors and into the cylinder. Lol
Not saying it's a bad idea. You can get a wrap style heater for the filter.

Curious, what are the coldest temps you see?

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Cubey

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Would sure take a lot of cranking to Get that warmed fuel from the filter, through the I.P, then through the injectors lines, down through the injectors and into the cylinder. Lol
Not saying it's a bad idea. You can get a wrap style heater for the filter.

Curious, what are the coldest temps you see?

That’s true about the distance from a heater to the engine.

20s overnight. 28 tonight and tomorrow night will be a good test of the all new, Motorcraft plugs.

I probably need to do more, like make a new harness for the plugs. Only one seems loose though. I was tired of working on it by the time I got the plugs put in, I didn’t think to sandpaper the harness contacts. I’m sure they need it.
 

ISPKI

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Not to jack your thread but, I have never had an issue with gelling. I run optilube XL which I don't believe contains anti gel. I have started my truck up in just about 0 degree weather at 5am during last winter without much issue.

With regards to your GPs. I installed new motorcraft plugs and a manual switch. With clean connectors, you wont have many issues starting on frigid winter mornings with a single 8-10 second prime.
 

Cubey

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I guess my problem is fixed good enough for now with the new plugs.

First start after about 15 hours, with an overnight low around 30.

The studder might be from that broken cold temp sensor by the water outlet pipe. Or maybe 12 seconds would have better than 10 but no matter.

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ISPKI

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Ya know, my truck studders on startup after sitting over night in very cold temperatures. I always associated it with one of my glowplugs not functioning correctly, but maybe I should look into the cold temp sensor. It also doesn't kick into high idle when cold immediately after startup, I have to slap the throttle pedal to get it to idle high.
 

Thewespaul

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The high idle solenoid does not have enough force to raise the idle, only hold it at the high idle. You have to blip the throttle manually
 

franklin2

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Don't expect a diesel engine to start right up when it's cold. I know the newer ones do, but most of the older equipment, including these trucks, will be a little stubborn at times. It's just the nature of the beast. These engines do not have spark plugs, they use heat to ignite the fuel. When it's cold it's tough to get them going sometimes. Everything has to be right for a quick start; Good batteries, good battery cables, good starter, good glowplugs.
 

snicklas

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Franklin is correct,

Even my fairly modern, computer controlled, low mile 6.0, when it gets cold, will still cough an sputter for a second on a cold startup......

A 1000lbs of cold cast iron is a 1000lbs of cold cast iron......... doesn't matter what diesel engine it is cast into.... takes a bit to warm it up...... down into the 30's my 6.0 will blue haze for a few seconds on startup....... the IDI will haze for a bit...... but once you get some heat in the heads and the piston crown, they clear up
 

ISPKI

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My truck billows grey smoke for a solid few minutes on cold startups. Even in the summer, it will billow smoke just not quite as long.
 

Cubey

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Ok it must be a fuel system problem I’m still having. On the steep hill this morning, it wouldn’t start. I coasted backwards down the hill to a less steep area and got it started after a few tries. I guess I will just have to avoid parking on steep hills overnight.

Yesterday wasn’t. The very hard starting video previous to that was on the hill.

As previously mentioned, I did the return lines earlier this year.

When I did the glow plugs, I saw no fuel pooled around them like I saw when I had bad return line o-rings.

Maybe it’s a bad lift pump? I have a cheap fuel pump that a previous owner put between the fuel selector and lift pump (with a small filter before the electric pump) but the pump is disabled during cranking based on how they wired it in. It runs with the key turned, before running running the engine, but not during cranking. It also runs with the engine running. So perhaps it’s having a fuel pressure problem while cranking when uphill? I guess that may deserve a new topic of its own...
 

79jasper

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Park facing downhill.
You won't always see leaking fuel at a bad return cap, or fuel line olives.

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OLDBULL8

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When facing up on a steep hill if you don't have at least a half tank of fuel, you might be the lift pump is sucking air.

If that cheap pump don't run when cranking, get rid of it.
 

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