Make my 89 F250 a dual wheel?

[TorchMadness]

First I would like to thank everyone for such useful info. The reason I figured I would convert to a dually is the truck will be a welding rig and I though it would help with the weight of the welding generator and supplies for jobs. Maybe a upgraded in the suspension is more of what I'm looking for.

 

[3Kp]

If I used the adapter kit on the rear wouldn't put stress on the lug nuts of the rear axle more than the axle itself? That's why it would be better to do a true axle?

 

[The Warden]

First I would like to thank everyone for such useful info. The reason I figured I would convert to a dually is the truck will be a welding rig and I though it would help with the weight of the welding generator and supplies for jobs. Maybe a upgraded in the suspension is more of what I'm looking for.

How much weight are you talking about? Unless you're going to go over the GAWR for the rear axle or you're going to load the truck past what the tires are rated for, the biggest advantage to going DRW is that you'll have more stability against sway. One thought would be to outfit the truck the way you want, then run it over a scale...see what the overall weight is, and then see what the weight on the rear axle is. If you've over the axle weight rating (this is printed on the door jamb sticker) or if, divided by 2, it's higher than what the tires are rated for (printed on the sidewall of the tires), then the DRW upgrade is STRONGLY recommended. If you're under the max weight, how does the truck feel when driving? If you don't like how it handles, you can go DRW or upgrade the suspension. Honestly, though, with suspension, about the only thing worth doing is adding air bags...but, that could prove to be a very good thing

If I used the adapter kit on the rear wouldn't put stress on the lug nuts of the rear axle more than the axle itself? That's why it would be better to do a true axle?

I imagine it would put more lateral stress on the SRW lugs than they're designed for, but the lugs on these trucks are pretty stout...I would be more worried about the wheel bearings in the axle. The wheel bearings are designed to be in a specific position relative to the center of the wheel, with a specific weight distribution between the two wheel bearings in the design. The adapters push the center of the wheel(s) out by enough that nearly all of the load is placed on the outer wheel bearing. As I said in my earlier post, that'll work for a while, but I strongly suspect that it will lead to prematurely failed wheel bearings in the long run...not to mention that the axle itself wasn't designed for the weight bearing points (i.e. the center of the wheels) to be as far out as it would be on a SRW axle with a DRW adapter.

For something as critical as this, and especially if the primary purpose to go DRW is to increase your weight carrying capacity and limit sway, I strongly contend that you're much better off with a true DRW axle.

JMHO...

 

[3Kp]

Sorry to hi jack this thread for my own needs..

SO I was looking on the inter web and found a dually rear end out of a 97 F350 has 4:10 ratio which is what I believe to have according to RPM at 65 mph, For $200.00 Will that work on my frame? Would I have to make modifications besides the fender flares?

But also found a Dana 70 rear end not sure of gear ratio or what year is came off of. But it's $125.00

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

found a dually rear end out of a 97 F350 has 4:10 ratio which is what I believe to have according to RPM at 65 mph, For $200.00

that's a too good to be true deal.the odds are high it's either a srw axle with adapters or a cab and chassis axle.
as a general rule,drw pickup axles go for $500 on the low end and 1k+ on the high.

if it's a '97 f350 drw pickup axle,yes.it will bolt right in place of the srw f250/350 srw sterling without any mods,save for dually fenders/wider flatbed.
the '93 and up sterlings sport a longer yoke so you'll need to insure the driveshaft doesn't bind or have yours shortened.you'll need the correct u-jont and u-bolts in place of your u-joint straps.

 

[3Kp]

Did you make chip truck into dually or did it come that way? Notice is says F250?

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

Did you make chip truck into dually or did it come that way? Notice is says F250?

i did,yes.specs;

Complete Dually Conversion
w/ 6 Matched set Accuride #29577 Rims (1984.5-97 2wd f350 dually rims.16x6,4.88 center bore,5.00" offset,4 hand hole,16x5 bolt pattern)
Arrowcraft AA-4 Series Front Adapters
1989 F350 Pickup DRW Axle w/3.55 R&P
(1st gen/short pinion & yoke w/ring tone for VSS)
Carquest Part #2-3050 Rear of Rear Drive Shaft Conversion U-Joint & Moog #331-10 Yoke Strap Kit.

 

[3Kp]

Truly amazes me what all you have done to your trucks. I may Pm you some questions once I figure out what I'm going to do with the truck.. Maybe I could win the lottery and by a new truck . OH that's right have to play it first to even have a chance to win.

 

[The Warden]

SO I was looking on the inter web and found a dually rear end out of a 97 F350 has 4:10 ratio which is what I believe to have according to RPM at 65 mph, For $200.00 Will that work on my frame? Would I have to make modifications besides the fender flares?

But also found a Dana 70 rear end not sure of gear ratio or what year is came off of. But it's $125.00

Those are both Ray Charles deals right there

If the Dana 70's out of a '80-'85 Ford, that would work as well (I say up to '85 because that's when Ford transitioned from Dana axles to the 10.25"; any axle out of an '80-'97 Ford F-250/350 pickup will bolt in). The Dana 70 has a 10.5" ring gear and IIRC can handle a bit extra weight, but the brake drums are inboard of the axle hubs...meaning that the outer axle hubs (and the axleshafts) have to come off before pulling the brake drums to inspect or redo the brakes. A bit of a hassle...also, the Dana 70's almost certainly not going to have a hole for the ring tone sensor for your rear ABS...fortunately you have a brick-nose so you don't have to worry about a speedometer sensor like OBS trucks do. {Added on edit} One other thing about the Dana 70...see towcat's post a couple of posts down from this one about the different rims that you'll need to source. That is something VERY important to consider.

By the way, one other thing to note...if you can find a factory DRW bed, I would suggest going that route. The aftermarket DRW conversion companies sell fender "doghouses" that will bolt to an SRW bed, but compare the price between those and to the factory doghouses meant to bolt to a DRW bed, and understand that you're almost guaranteed to destroy a doghouse at least once (either a light post/parking meter jumping out to bite it or a blown tire or similar)...

Worth noting: I have participated in converting a '91 F-350 4x4 from SRW to DRW; the pictures I posted above were from that job. Ended up using all factory parts, but realized later that I could have used Arrowcraft adapters for the front axle if I hadn't found the factory hubs at a reasonable price

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Hey Torch. I read in "Diesel Power Magazine" years ago that Ford started using One ton axles on the rear of their diesels way before Chevy and Dodge did. I used the axles from a 1990 F250 on my Bronco project. I saw "F350" stamped on one of the brackets that were riveted to the frame. Just to throw a number out there, I'm guessing that Ford might have started doing that in 1988 when they switched to the 7.3. I have nothing to base that on, but it seemed like a good starting place. I'd check your truck. You could already have F350 springs.

 

[TorchMadness]

Hey Torch. I read in "Diesel Power Magazine" years ago that Ford started using One ton axles on the rear of their diesels way before Chevy and Dodge did. I used the axles from a 1990 F250 on my Bronco project. I saw "F350" stamped on one of the brackets that were riveted to the frame. Just to throw a number out there, I'm guessing that Ford might have started doing that in 1988 when they switched to the 7.3. I have nothing to base that on, but it seemed like a good starting place. I'd check your truck. You could already have F350 springs.

Awesome I will be sure to check that out ASAP in the morning. Thanks for the heads up!

 

[towcat]

Sorry to hi jack this thread for my own needs..

SO I was looking on the inter web and found a dually rear end out of a 97 F350 has 4:10 ratio which is what I believe to have according to RPM at 65 mph, For $200.00 Will that work on my frame? Would I have to make modifications besides the fender flares?

But also found a Dana 70 rear end not sure of gear ratio or what year is came off of. But it's $125.00

for the sake of simplicity you really want to run a sterling 10.25 or 10.5" pickup dually rear axle. if you co with the Dana, you will need to source a set of "coined" rims to run with the Dana. I can post a pic of what it supposed looklike tomorrow evening.
if the slide-in camper lives on the back of your rig full-time a true pickup dually axle will be your best choice for longevity of axle and suspension parts.

 

[The Warden]

for the sake of simplicity you really want to run a sterling 10.25 or 10.5" pickup dually rear axle. if you co with the Dana, you will need to source a set of "coined" rims to run with the Dana. I can post a pic of what it supposed looklike tomorrow evening.

Oops; forgot about the coined rims that the Danas require...given that they're not the easiest things in the world to find, that's a very strong argument in favor of sticking to the Ford axle. Going to edit my original post...

 

[fsmyth]

So - whats a "coined" rim. (I got 3 different kinds here: truck, trailer, and trailer)
The 40' 3-axle trailer seems to be able to use anything, the truck needs the ones
with the little dowel hole, and the smaller trailer has a smaller center hole in the rim.
Forgive my ignorance - I an used to 20" and 22" rims
FWIW, the dodge has the same bolt pattern, but uses pressed rims (like a car).
I do remember that my old E350 needed a wheel that had the larger center hole.
I think that ford and dodge used the same one, chev was smaller.

 

[3Kp]

if the slide-in camper lives on the back of your rig full-time a true pickup dually axle will be your best choice for longevity of axle and suspension parts.

I just got the camper plan to use it to go to the MOB this year in PA. Also plan a few trips that we are going to take. When I'm not traveling the camper will come off the truck. IF I stay somewhere for a whole week I'm taking the camper off at the site most likely.

I just to like to talk things out and think about it for a while before I make a final decision. Plus lot of people on here use there truck daily for work to haul and pull things. I feel the input they can share will be very helpful. Thank you everyone!