Rings dont stick unless you grandma around and never change the oil. Put in new injectors and then go pull a big load for a while I bet it will seal up nicely, these engines dont get worked and that is most of the problems.
Major Oil consumption 1993 IDI factory turbo
- Thread starter junk
- Start date
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Work them hard and that will burn off the cylinder glaze in most cases. Acellerate and let off the fuel peddle many times to work both sides of the rings. Milkruns around town will build up varnish on the rings and cylinders. In worst cases you need to machine off the cylinders to get rid of it....
junk
Full Access Member
This truck was a service truck for a farmer and it had a service body on it. I'm guessing it didn't lead an easy life.
Type4 that's what I needed to hear. Thanks
Type4 that's what I needed to hear. Thanks
Hydro-idi
Full Access Member
Both typ4 and icanfixall's responses do make sense to me and have logic behind them. Often times I will drive my truck nice and easy going back and forth to the state farm where I work (roundtrip of 12 miles). Sometimes when I really romp on it, the engine will blow nasty black smoke then all of a sudden clear up into a gray haze under WOT afterwards. Happens again in a week or so. This tells me that these engines.....or just mine...gets loaded up with diesel carbon deposits fairly easilly when making short trips and not "working" the engine. It always seems to run better as well.
FYI I also have new Delphi injectors and pump is tuned properly so I am pretty sure it isn't a problem, just the nature of the old idi diesels.
FYI I also have new Delphi injectors and pump is tuned properly so I am pretty sure it isn't a problem, just the nature of the old idi diesels.
PwrSmoke
Full Access Member
This makes for an interesting sideline discussion because there was an article in one of the lube industry magazine a few years ago about carbon, soot and oxidation byproducts building up on the cylinder wall and causing increased oil consumption. The surface isn't smooth and all this gunk builds up and kind of "glazes" the cylinder wall (for lack of a better term). It comes with engines that are run cold all the time and don't get worked. My Farmall (Neuss D358 engine) had that problem. When I bought it, it had spent more than 10 years previous doing easy stuff. The D358 is a very low compression DI diesel (15:1 CR), so not only is it a bear to start in cold weather, it doesn't warm up much when idling or not working hard and is a known slobberer (white smoke and cylinder wall washing). Even though the guy I bought it from had recently changed the oil, it smelled like diesel fuel. I bought it as a tillage tractor, so immediately I put it to work with a 9-shank chisel plow. I went through GALLONS of oil. I really thought I had made a fatal error buying that tractor (I did, but that's another story not related to the engine ( : < ). I changed the oil (to Rotella-T ( : <) and consumption decreased but not enough right away. It took about a season for oil consumption to decrease to a reasonable level and the following season, it got even better. I was scratching my head until I read that article that explained it. IIRC, I think I went through about 3 gallons in 20 hours of running that first season. Now, it uses about one-to-two quarts in a full 50-70 hour season. I should add that the engine has 8300 hours.
90ididoorguy
nate
What is a cdr? Is it the tube that goes from the valve cover to the intake I usually call that the oil breather.
junk
Full Access Member
The CDR is similar to a PCV valve in gasser world. Some guys call the CDR the "Tuna can" as it looks like a can. On N/A engines its at the back of the intake, but on the ATS 093 turbo trucks they put it on the drivers valve cover.
Well trucks sitting in the shop. Hopefully tonight I'll start pulling the injectors. I'm wondering about removing the pump, but don't plan to replace it at this point so wondering if it's worth while. Seemed like it might be easier so I'm not fighting the injector lines when I remove the injectors and run a compression test.
Well trucks sitting in the shop. Hopefully tonight I'll start pulling the injectors. I'm wondering about removing the pump, but don't plan to replace it at this point so wondering if it's worth while. Seemed like it might be easier so I'm not fighting the injector lines when I remove the injectors and run a compression test.
PwrSmoke
Full Access Member
First, good luck. Hope you find the trouble and it's not a clusterf---!
Second, I don't know which is easier. I have only done it by pulling the lines so I'm probably not that much help to you deciding BUT I would caution you to caps over the open ports/fittings to protect the fuel system from dirt ingress.
Second, I don't know which is easier. I have only done it by pulling the lines so I'm probably not that much help to you deciding BUT I would caution you to caps over the open ports/fittings to protect the fuel system from dirt ingress.
I'm a fan of pulling the pump with the lines. Done it once with the IP and lines on and it was a PITA and more than once, I was concerned I'd bend a line.
Heath
Heath
junk
Full Access Member
WINNER WINNER
The pump and lines are coming out. I'll also pop the top cover of the pump to inspect for chunks like Mels write up says, making sure to get the fuel shutoff solenoid back in right.
The pump and lines are coming out. I'll also pop the top cover of the pump to inspect for chunks like Mels write up says, making sure to get the fuel shutoff solenoid back in right.
Mark the Timing on the IP and the gear cover...... so you can put back the way it was before pulling that stuff off.
Heath
Heath
junk
Full Access Member
Oh yeah I'll scribe a line befor pulling the pump.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Instead of a scribed line just make a center punch mark in the pump body to gear cover joint. then all you need to do is match up the two half circles that once were a full circle from the center punch mark. Much easier than a line too. Mel taught me that at the 2009 ralley when he installed Moose pump number two on my engine. Great ideas from great minds works around here.
junk
Full Access Member
That center punch idea is great. Definitely use that.
SparkandFire
We're drinking beer
On the subject of oil consumption...
I run about 300 miles a week commuting to work.
I add a quart about every other week, on average . So I get about 600-700 miles per quart of oil. That's running the '85 vintage 6.9 engine.
The factory '94 7.3 didn't hardly burn a drop, tight as a drum that one. With 200k miles on it I would add about a half a quart between changes, so half a quart every 5000 miles...
But that engine blew up, so I am not complaining about burning up a little Delo every couple weeks....
I run about 300 miles a week commuting to work.
I add a quart about every other week, on average . So I get about 600-700 miles per quart of oil. That's running the '85 vintage 6.9 engine.
The factory '94 7.3 didn't hardly burn a drop, tight as a drum that one. With 200k miles on it I would add about a half a quart between changes, so half a quart every 5000 miles...
But that engine blew up, so I am not complaining about burning up a little Delo every couple weeks....
