Machine shop aggrivations

[Macrobb]

Just be aware of the hydraulic lifters - if they don't have fluid in them, they will compress a bit as you rotate the engine around, so the valve will open 'late' and close 'early', not open as far.

If they do have fluid in them, make sure that it doesn't end up 'pumped up' a bit and open early/stay open late.

 

[Clb]

When I took mach. Shop in high school the teacher was a ww2 retired mil. Vet from the local shipyard!
Have not met his equal in decades!
How cheap can I make it fast is corporate chinas (american businesses) mantra today and the indies follow suit!

 

[IDIBRONCO]

That's true. I don't know how I could make sure that they have the right amount of oil in them without running it so I'm going to have to chance it I guess. Clb, you hit it right on the head there.

 

[Macrobb]

That's true. I don't know how I could make sure that they have the right amount of oil in them without running it so I'm going to have to chance it I guess. Clb, you hit it right on the head there.

What you need is a solid spacer, basically. I might take one lifter apart, take the hydraulic 'guts' out of it and put a washer or two in it until it's solid.

Then, you can simply snug the rocker down until you have no slack(but aren't loading the valve spring) when the valve in question is supposed to be closed, and then rotate it over. That is about where it would be where running(lifter takes up all slack with valve closed, but doesn't push it open).

Then just move your lifter and pushrod along each valve as you test the rest.

 

[hce]

What you need is a solid spacer, basically. I might take one lifter apart, take the hydraulic 'guts' out of it and put a washer or two in it until it's solid

Or use a light weight test spring.
Forget this still would need a solid lifter is claying the cylinders.

 

[rustygold]

If the valves hit the pistion head could you just cut a small valve relieve or would that mess up the combustion chamber?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I had thought about pulling the pan, replacing the front and rear seals, putting the pan back on (only rtv), putting some oil in it and just rotating the engine over by hand to keep oil in the lifters.

 

[gfemling]

Interesting discussion as I am overhauling my 6.9 including checking clearance of one of Russ's Torque Cams and wrestling with lifter issue to use for test. Intend to modify a junk lifter to be "solid" by removing hydraulic guts and add spacers- epoxy filler and/or washers- to arrive at zero lash on valve tip- rocker tip with respective cam lobe on base circle. Thinking will fill lifter to least height of lifter, bolt up with lifter roller on base circle then measure lash at rocker/ valve tip and reduce that by 2/3- understand rocker ratio is 1:1.5 ratio- to arrive at added amount the lifter needs to be shimmed up to get zero lash for clearance tests. Does that sound like a good approach?

 

[Macrobb]

then measure lash at rocker/ valve tip and reduce that by 2/3- understand rocker ratio is 1:1.5 ratio- to arrive at added amount the lifter needs to be shimmed up to get zero lash for clearance tests. Does that sound like a good approach?

Since you are only running the engine over once by hand... why not just take up your valve lash with a couple of feeler gauges?
Measure the lash with your feeler gauges on the valve, then take those feelers out of your set and just hold them in place. Easily adjustable for each cylinder.

 

[gfemling]

I like that idea at least for fine tuning the lash once have the solid lifter up to close to what is needed for zero lash. Thanks.

 

[riotwarrior]

Why not make an adjustable ...or buy adjustable push rod????

Should be able by solid lifter pair too btw...

Just sayin

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Would they be solid lifters for our roller application?

 

[Macrobb]

All you'd need is something the right diameter, even if it isn't a roller...
Remember, you are only cranking the engine over a couple of times, so a little grease will provide the needed lubrication

That being said... an old hydraulic lifter is the right size already, can be easily modified etc.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Ok. I do have some old lifters. I'll try to modify to make solid. I figure that If I can do two, then I can check one cylinder instead of one valve.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Today, finally, after life and a couple of injuries got in the way, I managed to do the Play Do trick. I decided to let the Play Do harden in order to take thickness measurements. I don't have numbers yet. A couple of the valves do look very close on clearances. I'm talking maybe 2 or 3 thousandths, maybe a little more. I did modify a couple of lifters by putting 3/16" washers inside to fill up the space taken up by the spring and "piston". Then I put the top piece that the pushrods sit on back on and installed the clip that holds it all together. I'm thinking that the extremely close clearances won't get any closer since the lifters were completely solid and since I also used Victor Reinz head gaskets. Icanfixall says that the FelPro head gaskets that I'm going to use on final assembly measure .076, while the VR gaskets measured .066 as measured with my Mitutoyo caliper. It may be quite as accurate as using a mic, but it's still measures exactly the same as my "test block" that's with it. Tomorrow, I will put a battery in my Mitutoyo mic to do the PlayDo measuring. I've also done some thinking on the question of valve/piston chasing. My answer is yes, both ways. We know that the valves can't be open very much at TDC so in that case, the piston chases the exhaust valve, while the intake valve chases the piston. Now one last question, does anyone know the minimum valve clearance?