I believe russ had told me you wanted .030in clearance minimum. He also told me you can advance or retard the cam 1 tooth if needed to get the proper clearance.
More clearance is always better; I'd be aiming for at least .015, .030 sounds good to me.
As you can see, it's pretty easy to end up with valves touching pistons, and, well... you probably won't notice it until you end up with destroyed guides and depressions in your pistons.
Another thing that I forgot to ask. I know for the ARP head studs, it's recommended to do the torque sequence 5 times. Does that go for Justin's studs too? I'm going to be installing his studs.
I bought these about a year ago. He was about $100 cheaper than anyone else I found. It didn't mention ARP, but they may be. I've been thinking that now may be the time to pull the trigger on a set of decompression pistons to make sure that I have enough valve clearance. I found a set of Silvolites that says they have been destroked .015. Is that too much?
I'm fairly certain that's all he's ever sold.
Iirc, he's the one that originally put the IDI kits together. Somewhat like a patent. Lol And that's why his are cheaper.
Justin sells ARP studs for the IDI. He apparently buys the studs in bulk and not in the "kit" form that ARP sells retail. You get the 34 studs, washers and nuts, but they are not in an ARP box. You do not get the ARP torque lube with the studs form Justin. I know this because I bought studs from Justin about a year ago and installed them in my truck.
When you do get the point of installing the studs, watch that the sheet metal stampings that hold the rockers in pairs are not resting on the tops of the studs. While probably not a common occurrence, it is possible that the studs might stick up too far out of the heads and those sheet metal stampings will bend when the rockers are torqued down. I suspect this can occur when the already tight tolerances on the engines stack up. Just something else to watch for as you assemble the engine.
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