Ford428CJ
FE Freak!
A few things that you will need for this project. Hand tools, Metal chop saw, Sawzall, welder, hand grinder, cheery picker, jacks, jack stand (or blocks of wood). I'm sure there are a few other goods you will need.
Next (for those running a C-6 4x4 with a 205 T-case) you will need a Diesel C-6 Tranny with a C-6 gasser out put shaft and a diesel governor installed on it! So it will go back in the same spot as the gasser did with out modding everything else.
Options for C-6 tranny:
I built mine with a gear reduction kit for it. Lowers 1st gear by 10% and 2nd by 5% with a heavy duty sprag kit. All those parts are rollerized. I have a 6 clutch instead of a 5 clutch. Here is where I got my parts from! Jay is an AWESOME guy to deal with. All of his parts drop in without modding the tranny case. Slick set-up and he is a FORD Guy.
https://www.securepay.com/easyshop/index.asp?mMerch_ID=36422&mDataSource=36422&ESVer=5
Now you will need to strip the front end off your truck! I put all my hardware into baggies (marked what they went to) and attached them to the parts. Did that so I can account for all my parts! Now the fun begins!
You may want to install a 2" body lift on the truck. I put on a 3" body on mine just because of the Turbo and it left me a ton of room for everything. Including the valve covers (if I need to pull them for what ever reason).
I installed the Diesel C-6 trans in it (with out the converter). I left the mount plate to the cross member unbolted (for the T-case). Then I took the engine and lined it up with the tranny (wont be able to bolt it up to the engine) and centered the front of the engine with the frame rails. Then I mark the X-member centered to the engine dampener Bolt.
Remove the engine. I cut a 10 1/2" wide cut. I took out of the top about 2 1/2" wide. Start from the weld across the top on the passenger side and cut 90 degrees to the frame rail (because the cross member sites cockeyed so to speak). I made a cut across the back side of the X-Member down to wear it starts to roll up ( I want to say 3 or 3 1/2" down). You'll see in the pictures on what I'm talking about.
Next re-mock up your engine back in the bay! Bolt it up to the tranny. Make sure the engine sits level from side to side and front to rear! I used an angle finder. But make sure you truck is on a level surface to begin with! Make sure your T-case plate sites flat and your bolt holes line up. Give it a good look over. You can use a floor jack under the engine to help level it from front to rear.
After you do all that. Check your x-member and make sure everything clears the oil pan. If it does. Remove the engine.
Next, Its time to box it in. I boxed in the X-member with 1/4" Plate for mine.
once you do that then you can reinstall the engine to make sure it clears everything. Then you can get started on the mounts!
I used the plates (the plated that bolt to the truck and the motor mounts rest on) out of the mid 80's pick-up.
Driver side from front of the truck
Top of driver side mount
Back of Driver side
Passenger side from the front of truck back
Top Passenger side
& back
Whole X-Member
You will need a selector valve with a return set-up. I didn't want to hack up my wiring on my truck. So if you wanted to turn it back to a gasser with the stock selector valve in it, you could. I use the stock switch in the truck! You will need 2 relays if you use the Wells VS2 Selector valve. You will need to revers the polarity on the switch is all. Made it simple without adding a switch to your dash. I used 5/16 bungs for the fuel tanks and mounted them on top of the tanks near the sending unit. Easy to install.
Hope this gives you an idea on what to do and what you are getting into for the most part. I know I didn't cover everything but its really general to begin with.
Next (for those running a C-6 4x4 with a 205 T-case) you will need a Diesel C-6 Tranny with a C-6 gasser out put shaft and a diesel governor installed on it! So it will go back in the same spot as the gasser did with out modding everything else.
Options for C-6 tranny:
I built mine with a gear reduction kit for it. Lowers 1st gear by 10% and 2nd by 5% with a heavy duty sprag kit. All those parts are rollerized. I have a 6 clutch instead of a 5 clutch. Here is where I got my parts from! Jay is an AWESOME guy to deal with. All of his parts drop in without modding the tranny case. Slick set-up and he is a FORD Guy.
https://www.securepay.com/easyshop/index.asp?mMerch_ID=36422&mDataSource=36422&ESVer=5
Now you will need to strip the front end off your truck! I put all my hardware into baggies (marked what they went to) and attached them to the parts. Did that so I can account for all my parts! Now the fun begins!
You may want to install a 2" body lift on the truck. I put on a 3" body on mine just because of the Turbo and it left me a ton of room for everything. Including the valve covers (if I need to pull them for what ever reason).
I installed the Diesel C-6 trans in it (with out the converter). I left the mount plate to the cross member unbolted (for the T-case). Then I took the engine and lined it up with the tranny (wont be able to bolt it up to the engine) and centered the front of the engine with the frame rails. Then I mark the X-member centered to the engine dampener Bolt.
Remove the engine. I cut a 10 1/2" wide cut. I took out of the top about 2 1/2" wide. Start from the weld across the top on the passenger side and cut 90 degrees to the frame rail (because the cross member sites cockeyed so to speak). I made a cut across the back side of the X-Member down to wear it starts to roll up ( I want to say 3 or 3 1/2" down). You'll see in the pictures on what I'm talking about.
Next re-mock up your engine back in the bay! Bolt it up to the tranny. Make sure the engine sits level from side to side and front to rear! I used an angle finder. But make sure you truck is on a level surface to begin with! Make sure your T-case plate sites flat and your bolt holes line up. Give it a good look over. You can use a floor jack under the engine to help level it from front to rear.
After you do all that. Check your x-member and make sure everything clears the oil pan. If it does. Remove the engine.
Next, Its time to box it in. I boxed in the X-member with 1/4" Plate for mine.
once you do that then you can reinstall the engine to make sure it clears everything. Then you can get started on the mounts!
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I used the plates (the plated that bolt to the truck and the motor mounts rest on) out of the mid 80's pick-up.
Driver side from front of the truck
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You must be registered for see images attach
Top of driver side mount
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Back of Driver side
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Passenger side from the front of truck back
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Top Passenger side
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& back
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Whole X-Member
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You will need a selector valve with a return set-up. I didn't want to hack up my wiring on my truck. So if you wanted to turn it back to a gasser with the stock selector valve in it, you could. I use the stock switch in the truck! You will need 2 relays if you use the Wells VS2 Selector valve. You will need to revers the polarity on the switch is all. Made it simple without adding a switch to your dash. I used 5/16 bungs for the fuel tanks and mounted them on top of the tanks near the sending unit. Easy to install.
You must be registered for see images attach
Hope this gives you an idea on what to do and what you are getting into for the most part. I know I didn't cover everything but its really general to begin with.
.
