Knocking at higher end rpm ?

[DrCharles]

I'm about to try the 2 gal. of diesel in the (empty) crankcase to clean out decades of sludge. But I'm not planning to fire up the engine. I'd really be wary of running it with only diesel as a lubricant...

 

[nostrokes]

DO NOT run it with the diesel in the crank case the blowby will make it run away. You can also just put some MMO in the oil and drive it for a while, it will act like a detergent and help loosen the crud in it.

 

[onetonjohn]

Wes posted in another thread to just let the diesel (fill to normal oil level) sit in crankcase overnight, drain and refill with oil. I wouldn't run it while you have diesel in the crankcase - just seems like bad idea.

 

[Christian9112]

Ok so I did a quick testing today and found out that I have been misreading my oil pressure gauge all this time. so cold idle it is at 45 psi. i didnt get a chance to do a test drive. I did notice that my cold advance switch is no longer changing my fuel pressure like it used to (around .5 psi) maybe my cold advance is stuck or i jacked up the wiring. maybe turning up the trim screw messes up with the cold advance and the inlet pressure?

 

[Christian9112]

well, crap. it looks like the cold advance is stuck. probably why the knocking at high rpm. ive been holding off on a new IP because of financial issues but at this point, i think im out of options. im not sure if I could just set the timing a little retarded to compensate or try to un stick it. Im guessing the high concentration of PS diesel kleen might have pushed something in there and dickerd something up.

 

[Thewespaul]

The cold advance is stuck on? That would just mean the glass hole in the return fitting is stuck open, simply remove the fitting and clean it out.

 

[Christian9112]

simply remove the fitting and clean it out.

Is this the check valve on the barb fitting on top of the cover? do I need to remove the whole cover?

 

[Christian9112]

took the top cover off. cleaned everything. retarded the timing a bit. made sure everything moves as it should. i havent ran it for a test drive. but i will tomorrow.

 

[Thewespaul]

You need to remove the lower fitting the barb elbow screws into, and blow it out with some carb cleaner, thats where the glass ball isnt seating. You can get a new fitting if you cant get it to seal, lots of them online.

 

[Christian9112]

I just had a humbling experience. The TC nuts were not tightened all the way. there as a 1/16th air gap between the flexplate and the nut. I put on a lock nut thinking it would prevent this kind of thing. that lock nut gave me a lot of torque that it convinced me that it was fully locked. For those who tried to help, I appreciate everything. Its good to know that you are not alone with fixing this machines. I also apologize for not double checking my own crap and wasting yall's time. Thank you
/thread

 

[IDIBRONCO]

The factory style TC nuts are locking and I think are still available new.

 

[Christian9112]

The factory style TC nuts are locking

I didnt even know that. my old one was so lose i thought it was just a regular nut. I put on a fine thread nylon lock nut on there. not sure if the heat is gonna affect it but ill give it a shot until i find that crimped style nut.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

my old one was so lose i thought it was just a regular nut.

It sure could have been. There's no telling what some else could have done. There appears to be a plethora of non OEM nuts on Ebay too.

 

[dgr]

I think you win a you suck award.

Someone will be in the same boat in the future.