Knock Knock

[HammerDown]

Diamondwhips, that's some burnt oil you have up there.
In comparison...here's what mine looks like with regularly changed oil since new.

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[Zaggnutt]

I feel thats not lots of sludge build up at all. I would run some Auto RX thru it. then feel thats all it needs as far as cleaning goes. As for the atf in the fuel filter. Thats for cleaning out the possible gummed up injection pump or injecters. You fill the filter with atf. Run the engine til you hear a distinct sound change and shut it down. Let is sit over nite. then you the hell out of it the next day. That usually flushes out the possible gummed up injection system..

Ahhhh... Okay, I wasn't sure what that would affect. Thanks for some clarity.

 

[Zaggnutt]

Diamondwhips, that's some burnt oil you have up there.
In comparison...here's what mine looks like with regularly changed oil since new.

Wow. That is pretty. How many miles on it?

 

[HammerDown]

Wow. That is pretty. How many miles on it?

That pic was taken around 195,000 it now has 205,000

 

[Diamondwhips]

At Hammerdown,

So I guess the question would be, is the burnt oil from a bad valve guide or the PO not keeping up on his maintenance

At Gary,

I have just put a cleaner in the crankcase yesterday. I couldn't find Auto RX locally so I went with a different product, we'll see if it works or not.

I thought it might be helpful if I made a video with a problematic start. It didn't really knock like before but I hope you get the idea.

I'm trying (with your guys help) to narrow the problem down before I start pulling it down either for head work or a rebuild.

http://youtu.be/osDxVZ1vUIk?

 

[HammerDown]

To me, that just looks like neglected oil changes or even a non diesel oil was being used for a long time.
My thoughts on a bad exhaust guide would put the burnt oil at and around the bad guide...and not what appears to be evenly distributed around the head.
For whatever reason I can't hear audio on your clip. Unless some thick oil additive like STP or Lucas that temporally will cushion a slight knock, a rod knock won't come and go and to intensify the knock simply put a load on the engine while pressing the brake pedal. As with my Harley sometimes piston slap will occur at different times...loose fitting forged pistons will rattle until heat is built and the piston expands. Wrist pin knock usually happens on a hot engine and sounds different than a rod knock. But again, a rod knock will always be present when a load is put on the engine. Usually applying both the brake and fuel pedal is enough to bring the knock out.

 

[Diamondwhips]

So I wanted to update this thread and ask a couple more questions. I decided to pull the heads and check for bad guides. Sure enough I had 4 bad guides all of them on the exhaust side. I have all new guides put in and new springs. I bolt the thing back together and while trying to prime the fuel system I notice a chuff sound coming from the intake. I have been driving the truck every day for 2 weeks to see if I get a knock again. Sure enough I get a much milder version of a knock but its still there.

So my question is could I be hearing a collapsed lifter knocking until it has enough oil pressure?

Any thoughts on what else it could be? It has to be in the valve train some were I just cant seem to pin point it

 

[riotwarrior]

Chuff on intake...this could be lifter issue holding the valve open more than should be especially if you just had heads done!

Or the valves got sunk in too deep and are being held open directly from the lifter...I"d have to suspect it's an issue with lifter being it's still there and you now have a chuff.

Valve depth in head is critical and too deep can cause problems. Where the heads re-surfaced too? There are some very critical measurements that should be adhered too and assembly steps when doing a head job.

Specifically setting the cranks position so as to have all the pistons below deck surface when installing heads and then the rockers, this helps avoid issues with piston kissing valves and bending and such.

We need more info in order to assist you further. What machining took place etc.

JM2CW

Al

 

[Diamondwhips]

Yes the heads were re-surfaced I found a thread about valve depth after I had reinstalled the heads. The machinist I had do the work has done many idi rebuilds so I think were ok. When I torqued down the rockers i had the crankshaft turned to the correct position. I have to admit I wish I would have put new lifters in when I was there but i thought I had found the problem.

 

[cheap bronco]

Or like in my case, lifter knock

 

[icanfixall]

Head can stay on when you replace the lifters. Just need a valley pan gasket really. Might be able to reuse the valve cover gaskets and possibility the valley pan too but the reuse of the valley pan is depending on its crushed condition. If any gasket material separates from the valley pan you really should replace it...

 

[Diamondwhips]

How does everyone feel about used lifters I saw some on fleabay and thought about trying them. The ones I saw were the needle bearing type.

 

[HammerDown]

This time I got audio...just as you exited the cab I thought I heard a quick, few hammer hits...but I can't be sure.
All the rest of the audio I couldn't really hear anything out of the ordinary...no 'chuff' no nothing.

 

[Diamondwhips]

This time I got audio...just as you exited the cab I thought I heard a quick, few hammer hits...but I can't be sure.
All the rest of the audio I couldn't really hear anything out of the ordinary...no 'chuff' no nothing.

I agree but something just doesn't seem right. Fixing the guides did improve things but I'm starting to think that it could be a lifter. If the engine stops with pressure on the bad lifter it would bleed down and then on start up take a beating until oil pressure built up. That doesn't explain the chuffing out of the intake but at this point I'm shooting from the hip.

 

[79jasper]

How does everyone feel about used lifters I saw some on fleabay and thought about trying them. The ones I saw were the needle bearing type.

Uh..
I believe most said no.
There was a fairly recent thread debating the use of needle bearing vs bushing type lifters.


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