madpogue
Full Access Member
As mentioned above, the failed relay could be causing this. How is the coil circuit of the relay switched?
key won't shut engine down, lights for in dash stay on, but everything else goes off
- Thread starter SPR1NK
- Start date
SPR1NK
Full Access Member
When I installed the button I followed instructions that I found on here to do it, can't remember exactly how it's wired of the top of head tho
SPR1NK
Full Access Member
I do know tho, that the way it's wired normally I can't use the glow plugs if the key is off and now that it started acting the way it is i can use them with the key out of the truck
SPR1NK
Full Access Member
The button is tied to ground
FarmerFrank
Full Access Member
If you did the manual plug switch like that you are still using the factory battery power wires to the controller. Above the passenger side valve cover is the plug that melts and your getting constant battery power to the FSS and it is back feeding the other circuits. If you leave the FSS hooked up with constant power and not running, like it has now, you will fry the FSS.
SPR1NK
Full Access Member
But I unplugged all of the wires that went into the controller box, the wires only go into that solenoid
I will check for that melted plug tho when I get home from work, the truck is sitting with the batteries unplugged now so as to not fry anything
I will check for that melted plug tho when I get home from work, the truck is sitting with the batteries unplugged now so as to not fry anything
madpogue
Full Access Member
Forget about the controller and disconnect all the wires from the RELAY, and see what happens.
SPR1NK
Full Access Member
And the relay is the solenoid?
Or is there something else I'm not understanding here
Or is there something else I'm not understanding here
madpogue
Full Access Member
The relay is what is often incorrectly called a solenoid. Since it doesn't physically move something externally (like a starter solenoid or a lock actuator solenoid or what-not), it's a relay, not a solenoid.
SPR1NK
Full Access Member
Oh, so I've been calling it the wrong thing
I'll have to try that after work
I'll have to try that after work
SPR1NK
Full Access Member
Ok, on further investigation I discovered that the wiring harness going to the glow plug relay had fallen against the down pipe from the turbo and melted, so I believe I have found the short and am now rebuilding the harness and relocating the relay to the passenger side fender well
Now on the relay there is a little squiggly piece of steel that goes from the relay to controller box, is that piece necessary for something or can that be removed, that piece is the only reason i left the controller box in in the first place, but i would like to just get rid of the box completely if possible
Now on the relay there is a little squiggly piece of steel that goes from the relay to controller box, is that piece necessary for something or can that be removed, that piece is the only reason i left the controller box in in the first place, but i would like to just get rid of the box completely if possible
OLDBULL8
Good Morning Ya'll.
Yes you do need that "little squiggly" piece of steel. or you will burn out the GP's (glow plugs) pronto. That squiggly is call a "resistor". the controller box is called a "GP Controller" or glowplug controller.
If you want to get rid of the GP controller and make the GP system manual, look in the IDI Tech Articles on how to do it.
Attachments
SPR1NK
Full Access Member
The system is already controlled manually, I just wasn't sure if I'd be able to get rid of that piece, but if it has to stay then I will keep it there and just the the controller box as a mounting point for the relay so the resistor has something to mount on
SPR1NK
Full Access Member
The main reason I was curious is my dads old Chevy 6.2 (I know it's probly a whole different animal) doesn't have any resistor like that, it's just the relay and it doesn't burn out plugs hardly ever
