Kent-Moore J33300 Magnetic Probe Location and Offset Adjustment

[KZF250]

I have been scouring old posts looking for a pic of my question but have not found one so before I go sticking my probe in a hole where it don't belong I just want to make sure I have the right place. I'm thinking the taller tower/hole on the top of the pic? Should I prep/clean that hole before sticking the probe in there. Also instruction say to set the "Offset" and that 20* is the default...what should that be set at.

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[79jasper]

Search the tech articles.
Use a drill bit to clean the hole by hand.
Then you use a stack of business cards to gap it.

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[riotwarrior]

Read the image captions and descriptions here....you will see your info you requested very clearly!

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...FOR-TIMING-LIGHTS-Tech-101&highlight=TECH+101

Hopw that helps....

 

[KZF250]

Yes that helps Riot and using the top hole seems to explain why the 20* offset works.

 

[icanfixall]

Here is what needs to be done. First off please... Clean off the timing tab in the pic. The middle of the short fat probe location is the top dead center. We don't use that for any timing IF you use the mag probe and line clamp method of timing. If you are using a timing light then use that line for timing. Now you MUST clean out the tall skinny probe hole with a 5/16 drill bit by hand. Then wash out the hole. Clean off the damper outside diameter too. Now press the mag probe in the skinny probe location but make sure 3 business cards are between the probe tip and the damper. That sets the air gap. Sand off ALL the paint from the number one or 4 injector line. thats the best way to get a good signal from there. Connect power to the meter. Read the display. It will say SE 1 20.0. Now press the lowest rocker switch only once. That sets the offset and all the display readings will show zeros. You are ready to start the engine. Rev to approx 2000 rpm plus or minus 25 rpm. Read the display for rpm and degrees of timing. Write it down. Shut down the engine and make any timing changes you want. NEVER attempt timing changes on a running engine. There are some u tube vids showing the use of a turn buckle to adjust timing on a running engine. What they wont tell you is if the wrench or turn buckle slips off the pump spins to adjustment lock and snaps the pump main shaft. That ruins and core value of the pump. Every cylinder has the number cast into the aluminum port runner near the head. May need to clean off some road dirt to see it. Drivers side is even numbered and passenger side is odd numbered cylinders.

 

[KZF250]

Thanks Gary...I have been reading many of your posts on timing and appreciate the post. Truck runs good but I'm curious what the timing is set at,

 

[icanfixall]

Your very welcome. I'm just sharing what I have learned from others like Riotwarrior and my own work. Here is what I suggest to those that rent my meters. Time your engine. Get a degree of timing you like. Make a center punch mark in the joint line where the pump connects to the gear cover. Now advance or retard the timing to another timing. Make another mark somewhere in that same joint line. Do this a few times. Now you have several timing sets that you know are say 8.5... 9.5.. 10.0 advance. You can now change the timing anytime you want WITHOUT the use of a meter. Just loosen and move to a know degree of timing. Also as long as you do not remove the gear cover your pump timing will be the same with this particular pump. You can remove the pump from the engine and reinstall it and know whats the timing by your marks. This timing should be good for 50 to 75 thousand miles. As the pump wears out the timing does change. But see how you just saved yourself work time of money not having to rent a meter from me or anyone else. I try my best to figure out the least costly way to keep our rigs running great. Before my timing meter rental program there was nobody on the US or Canada that would time our simple engines. Now things are different.

 

[mu2bdriver]

As the pump wears out and the timing changes, does it move towards advanced or retarded?

 

[79jasper]

As the pump wears, timing will retard. As injectors were, timing advances.

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[sjwelds]

Hmmmmm. Makes you wonder. Has anyone ever timed an engine with new IP and injectors, ran it for 100k, and checked timing again to see how much it actually changes? Based on ^^^ wonder where it actually ends up.....

 

[79jasper]

Seems usually not too far off.

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