94250turbo
Full Access Member
Whats the best way to cut the hose without fraying the hose cover? (kits from Mel) Also I read something about greasing the caps I think. Is wheel bearing grease ok?
Just got my return line kit for 7.3
- Thread starter 94250turbo
- Start date
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
I use a single edge razor or an exacto knife. Any grease is ok even petroleum jelly. KY is water based so stay away from using that. Thanks for supporting a member of this forum in his great business too.
94250turbo
Full Access Member
Do the caps just pop off?
yes caps just pop off, I used engine oil, you only need lube to put them on. so you don't bust an o-ring
x2 on the single edge razor blade.
x2 on the single edge razor blade.
94250turbo
Full Access Member
Ok i got the first one off. Im not seeing where the copper washers go? Also on the left side third injector my existing cap has 3 nozzles with one going to the pass. Side. None of my new caps have three nozzles?
copper washers are for the injector tips.
gotta pull the injectors out, youll see them.
I didn't pull mine out, I just replaced the O-rings, caps, and lines
im not an expert on this, I remember running into a similar issue.
I deleted one of the lines from the system.
as long as you have a return line from both sides going back to the tank, and one to the filter, im pretty sure youre good. may wanna let someone with more knoloedge help ya with this one
gotta pull the injectors out, youll see them.
I didn't pull mine out, I just replaced the O-rings, caps, and lines
im not an expert on this, I remember running into a similar issue.
I deleted one of the lines from the system.
as long as you have a return line from both sides going back to the tank, and one to the filter, im pretty sure youre good. may wanna let someone with more knoloedge help ya with this one
Eric,
A few other tips.
I know you got the kit from Mel, so it is a high quality kit, but just double check and make sure there is no "casting flash" inside the caps before you try and put them on. This is one of the biggest things that cause a leak on a new return kit. The casting flash cuts the new o-ring when it is installed over them.
Put the top o-ring on first, and then roll the second one over it and into the lower groove on the injector. Trying to fish the o-ring out of the top groove to move it to the bottom is a good way to damage one, and cause a leak. You will not hurt the o-ring by stretching it over the top o-ring. Just use care while you do this.
Lube them up, have heard many use Vaseline (petroleum jelly). This also helps to keep from damaging the o-rings.
Make sure the "pop" on solid and are seated completely down where they are supposed to be. When you re-install the injector hard line, if the new cap touches the nut on the line, or there is almost no gap between the cap and the nut, the cap is not seated. On the ones that I have seen the distance between the nut and the cap is about the same as the "height" (lying down, not standing up) of the replacement o-rings, just to give you an idea of the gap. One trick Travis has talked about if a cap is a bit stubborn to go on, is take a socket that is just slightly smaller than the cap, so you can set it on top of the cap, and bridge the injector line threads, and tap it with something like a rubber mallet. I mean a love tap, don't beat on it like your are trying to hammer a log cabin nail into a telephone pole. With a light tap, it should pop on straight and solid, and not damage the cap or the o-rings...... again, just to make it clear for anyone that is looking at this thread in the future, the cap is plastic, and can break. A very light tap with a rubber mallet, not a hammer. If you do not feel comfortable in doing this, leave the socket and mallet in the toolbox and just push it on with your hands. Do not want anyone to damage an injector by using this trick.....
Make the new lines "just the right length". Make them so they just fill the gap between the two caps. I have seen where they are left a bit long, or a bit short, and they push, or pull on the cap and cause a leak. They should go on nice and straight..... kinda like this:
O-----O-----O-----O
I hope that makes sense.
Make sure you thread the injection hard nuts on BY HAND as far as you can before you touch them with a wrench. They are easy to cross-thread, and if you just start them, and then take a wrench it is really easy to screw up the threads on the injector (they are the softer of the two parts).
Other than that, should not be too difficult. Once you see what you have in there, it makes since what needs to go back.....
A few other tips.
I know you got the kit from Mel, so it is a high quality kit, but just double check and make sure there is no "casting flash" inside the caps before you try and put them on. This is one of the biggest things that cause a leak on a new return kit. The casting flash cuts the new o-ring when it is installed over them.
Put the top o-ring on first, and then roll the second one over it and into the lower groove on the injector. Trying to fish the o-ring out of the top groove to move it to the bottom is a good way to damage one, and cause a leak. You will not hurt the o-ring by stretching it over the top o-ring. Just use care while you do this.
Lube them up, have heard many use Vaseline (petroleum jelly). This also helps to keep from damaging the o-rings.
Make sure the "pop" on solid and are seated completely down where they are supposed to be. When you re-install the injector hard line, if the new cap touches the nut on the line, or there is almost no gap between the cap and the nut, the cap is not seated. On the ones that I have seen the distance between the nut and the cap is about the same as the "height" (lying down, not standing up) of the replacement o-rings, just to give you an idea of the gap. One trick Travis has talked about if a cap is a bit stubborn to go on, is take a socket that is just slightly smaller than the cap, so you can set it on top of the cap, and bridge the injector line threads, and tap it with something like a rubber mallet. I mean a love tap, don't beat on it like your are trying to hammer a log cabin nail into a telephone pole. With a light tap, it should pop on straight and solid, and not damage the cap or the o-rings...... again, just to make it clear for anyone that is looking at this thread in the future, the cap is plastic, and can break. A very light tap with a rubber mallet, not a hammer. If you do not feel comfortable in doing this, leave the socket and mallet in the toolbox and just push it on with your hands. Do not want anyone to damage an injector by using this trick.....
Make the new lines "just the right length". Make them so they just fill the gap between the two caps. I have seen where they are left a bit long, or a bit short, and they push, or pull on the cap and cause a leak. They should go on nice and straight..... kinda like this:
O-----O-----O-----O
I hope that makes sense.
Make sure you thread the injection hard nuts on BY HAND as far as you can before you touch them with a wrench. They are easy to cross-thread, and if you just start them, and then take a wrench it is really easy to screw up the threads on the injector (they are the softer of the two parts).
Other than that, should not be too difficult. Once you see what you have in there, it makes since what needs to go back.....
http://conestogadiesel.com/support/fuellineroutingoptionsforfordidiengines.html
Here is Mel's return line routing. I have reused caps before if you want to keep the three way. I don't know if he includes a "T" as shown in the diagram. The copper washers are only needed if you are removing injectors. If it ain't broke... I assemble each bank of return caps and then install. You have to measure center to center and keep it from growing or getting shorter. Each hose section is 4" or slightly less.
Here is Mel's return line routing. I have reused caps before if you want to keep the three way. I don't know if he includes a "T" as shown in the diagram. The copper washers are only needed if you are removing injectors. If it ain't broke... I assemble each bank of return caps and then install. You have to measure center to center and keep it from growing or getting shorter. Each hose section is 4" or slightly less.
94250turbo
Full Access Member
I would like to route mine like the first diagram. My fuel return manifold is only a two way. Anyone know where I can get a three way one? Also where can I get a three way cap?
