It's fallen . . . and won't come out.

[Noiseydiesel]

Thought that would get your attention. . . .
'94 idiT engine is stuck. Do I get to pull the turbo to get the engine out?
I haven't pulled the starter off either but looking at the bottom, it *might* have enough clearance to get out(?)
Tomorrow I hope to call Florida and get the Allison coming. The old E4OD that was rebuilt shortly ago is slightly hung up under the truck with this driveway engine job. It will go away cheap enough with some built in problems.
The BW 1356 transfer case is waiting for me to open it up and replace anything that rotates. I imagine bearings and chain.
Now if I was smart I would have sprung for the other $1500 for the E-locker that fits into the Dana 60 that also needs installation.
AH! ~~ Larger question is once the engine is together, any tips to pre-fill the fuel system for a faster start? Any body making a good quality electric lift pump?
Tired, this old body should be going to bed. Catch y'all later!
Thank you one and all in advance!!

 

[subway]

I pulled the engine with the turbo, transmission and transferase when I did the engine swap on my 94. It was a tight fit and I pulled the front clip off the truck but it can be done.

The starter can come out, the hardest part is getting the right amount of extensions to reach the top bolt that likes to hide. I used enough extensions to reach up past the cross member all the way back.

If you just want to prime the system any cheap parts store electric pump will do. If you want to leave it in I am not sure what the fan favorite is nowadays. I liked the carter electric pumps but quality and longevity of different brands seems to drop over time.

 

[CharlesG]

I'm very happy with my Walbro FRB-13 fuel pump. 6-8 psi and 43 gph. I have it mounted on the frame just after the FSV.

 

[Noiseydiesel]

Thanks for the replies, my desire is to not pull the rad support and the trans is already off.
The Walbro pump might be the way I go as it seems there is no longer a great rep with many pumps.
This might be a temp situation until the engine is broke in a bit.
Looks like I will be pulling off a turbo to see if i can get a bit more clearance to pull out the engine.
Fun times.

 

[subway]

I found it easier to pull the turbo with the lower cast mount intact when I was working on mine. of course depending on how your bolts have bonded together over the years that can dictate your course of action. IIRC the turbo mount bolts were impossible for me to break loose on the truck.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Yes. Remove the starter before trying to pull the engine. That will make the job MUCH easier. Since the transmission has been dropped out, if the engine tilts backward, you may have to lift the back of the engine back up to about where it sits with the transmission installed. That may be the only way that you get enough room to remove the turbo. I would put some wood blocks on a floor jack and CAREFULLY jack up on the bottom of the oil pan. Just don't try to lift on the drain plug. That's never a good idea. If you're careful, you won't damage the oil pan because you're really not putting much weight on the jack. All you're doing is tilting the engine back forward.

 

[1mouse3]

The starter can come out, the hardest part is getting the right amount of extensions to reach the top bolt that likes to hide. I used enough extensions to reach up past the cross member all the way back.

Yea, it only needs a little bit of a reach around.

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