Is it possible to weld on the valley pan?

[RLDSL]

If the sillyscum doesn't work, then welding won't work with a heavy fitting and a thin pan, but you can get weld up fittings from Summit or Jeggs and braze them on and they will seal up perfectly. Brazing will allow you to join dissimilar metals and metals of dissimilar thickness without a problem. that's not a body panel, if you tried to zap that on with an arc, or mig it would have a bunch of tiny pinholes.... and oil leaking all over... back to square one

youd need some real thin flux covered brazing rod and work it just hot enough to get things moving or you'll warp the crap out of the valley pan

Now, the next question, why are you blowing so much oil out, have you checked to see if you have excess blowby?
You might want to consider running a couple of treatments of Auto Rx and see if you can clean up your rings and lower your crankcase pressure some.

 

[f-two-fiddy]

Be very careful in whatever You decide. Wire wheel, and open valley pan makes Me cringe

One piece of wire down in the VP could be very bad.

 

[snaponprofile]

I sprayed it with brake cleaner and then copper RTV'ed it in. I am sure I got it good this time, I made sure nothing went into the hole either(at least no metal). I'm not gonna weld anything.

How do you test for blow-by??

 

[OLDBULL8]

I can appreciate your frustration of trying to stop the oil return leak. Had the same problem with mine. That damn SS tube has to be bent exactly right to go thru the grommet straight or it will leak. Pic below is what I did, but it's difficult to make just right.

Addressing your blowby: Have you got the CC vent with the 1" hose coming out of the front of the IP gear tower? Pics below show how it is supposed to be. You may have a defective CDR, which would cause a pressure in the crank case, which would cause oil to blow out where you have your oil return thru the valley pan.

Every body likes pictures.

You must be registered for see images

 

[oldblue05]

wait, your cdr goes to the gear tower? how is any pressure released?

 

[icanfixall]

Thats a Banks setup. The crd sucks from the gear tower. Then it dumps into the inlet side of the turbo.... Not the best idea but it works.

 

[snaponprofile]

Ok, I am pretty dang sure I did everything right and oil is coming down underneath on the started and bell-housing in the exact same spot with the exact same quantity. I looked and the oil drain connection appeared to be dry, but the oil appearing underneath the truck hasn't changed!!!!

I sealed that grommet up tight I really doubt with in 15 seconds of starting the engine, a leak could have burst through and made itself down to the crossover. I am second guessing if this is the point of oil leaking??? Does anyone have a list of what could possibly putting oil onto the starter and bell-housing(pass. side)?? This is driving me nuts!!!!

Yes, I have CC vent and new CDR.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Nobody asked why I have a rusty bolt on the right side in this pic.

 

[icanfixall]

I'll bite... Why is that bolt rusty..But more than that why is your vacuum pump pulley so rusty....

 

[snaponprofile]

There is a hole in his hood??

 

[hesutton]

Look at the turbo's center section really well for leaking, top and bottom. I'd tell you look at the junction between the rear of the block and the valley pan and at the oil galley on the back of the block but you really can't see them very well or at all. Unfortunately, those are possible sources for your oil leak. The sealing surface between the rear of the block and the valley pan is undersized and seems as though it was designed to leak from the factory. There just isn't much surface area there and no real way to hold the two together.

Heath

 

[boosted power]

Than is one heck of a leak that you can see it down the bell housing in 15 seconds. Did you check that the oil return flange is sealing to the turbo correctly?

On the factory system I had a really hard time getting the turbo to seat on the oil return pedestal correctly. Looks like the banks setup is a little more forgiving though.

 

[Cincinnati Guy]

Are you sure the leak is coming from the oil drain? and not the oil feed line? Where is it getting its oil from?

 

[snaponprofile]

At this point nothing is coming from anything turbo related, drain tube is dry and grommet is sealing. I am guessing it could be the dipstick or former oil pressure sender port....

 

[oldblue05]

Ok, I am pretty dang sure I did everything right and oil is coming down underneath on the started and bell-housing in the exact same spot with the exact same quantity. I looked and the oil drain connection appeared to be dry, but the oil appearing underneath the truck hasn't changed!!!!

I sealed that grommet up tight I really doubt with in 15 seconds of starting the engine, a leak could have burst through and made itself down to the crossover. I am second guessing if this is the point of oil leaking??? Does anyone have a list of what could possibly putting oil onto the starter and bell-housing(pass. side)?? This is driving me nuts!!!!

Yes, I have CC vent and new CDR.

FWIW I had a bad o-ring on my ats where is sat on the drain bracket and it leaked... now i still have oil coming out of the bottom but I narrowed it down to the rear main seal or the oil pan... might check those. If oil is coming out the bottom but not the sides it shouldn't be the turbo drain...

Nobody asked why I have a rusty bolt on the right side in this pic.

looks too bad to be beer... maybe brake fluid? shot in the dark...