Is it possible to weld on the valley pan?

snaponprofile

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Anyone have any other alternatives to welding a barb to the pan???

All i see is SS hose barbs, can that be welded to steel??
 
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icanfixall

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Can you weld that thin of metal is my question...No.. Never try welding the pan whiles its on the engine. I am a very good qualified weldor. Did it for 30 years in a power generating station and machine shop. Not much I can't weld..I would not attempt to weld what you want to weld. Now about you saying... you did all the right stuff and used rtv... Sounds good but I need to ask.... What did you use to clean off the pan grommet area.... What rtv did you use. This is how I install my Banks turbo drain back grommet and line. I use brakeclean on both the pan and new grommet. Then I use permatex ultra copper plus. Its a high temp and oil resistant rtv... Works better than anything else I have used. I never use the supplied rtv with the pan. I fill the grommet to pan groove with the rtv. Then I install it. Then I apply more rtv around the pan to grommet joint. Then I clean the oil drain tube with brakeclean. Apply a bead of rtv around the tube about 1/2 inch from the end. Stick it in the grommet. Make sure the rtv onthe tube contacts the grommet. Install the turbo and being careful not to push the tube deeper into the grommet. Connect the tube to the turbo and finish bolting the turbo to the engine. Now that will never leak. I have over 5 years of that joint without any issues. My oil pan is rtved to the block without any seepage or leaks. Don't try to skip any steps. You will have leaks. If any grease or oil is on any sealing surfce it will wick the oil thru the seal area. Everything must be clean.
 

snaponprofile

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Ok, I am gonna try the grommet one more, I have a replacement sitting here and I need the truck. I have been using Blue RTV, gasket maker, and I didn't really clean it off with brake parts cleaner, just wiped it off with a towel. I'm gonna use brake cleaner this time around.

I'm gonna be crazy about making sure all conditions are right this time and I'll let you know how it goes....
 
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icanfixall

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This is the issues we encounter here most of the time... Members feel they have done exactly whats been said here... till someone actually spells out what really works. I'm not busting your @ss telling you what works or how you need to do something. I'm trying to explain what has worked for me and how its been done without leaks. Others will have another method using a differant method and differant rtv. For me historically my method has never letme down. So I felt I could share that with this forum and feel it would work for others. When a poster posts... I have done everythingjust like I have read to on this board... I have to ask just how did you do it and what did you use or do exactly. Only then will we know what you have done and be able to advise or help you to see what works for others..... Brakeclean will not leave any film or residue befind. Its a proven cleaner that just simply works better than wipeing off something. Its a lesson learned but never forgotten...:angel::D
 

snaponprofile

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I absolutely appreciate that you spelled that out for me! I think I can get it leak free this time around, I will use the copper RTV and clean everything thoroughly with brake cleaner and that should do the magic. The devil is in the details I guess!

Just wondering, did you do it with the turbo on or off? Cause I have the cold side off and I can pretty much get to it, but I am considering just pulling the hot side off too.

thanks.
 

hesutton

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Are you sure the leak isn't coming from somewhere else? I found a hole in the drain tube on my used Banks kit. The junction between the drain tube and the turbo's oil return is also a common place for leaks.

Here was the hole in the tube. Something was rubbing agaist it and finially made a hole.
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Heath
 

riotwarrior

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Gary, Icanfixall is correct in his methodollogy to do the install....I cannot myself speak from experience in this exact situation, just doing this type of work for years....

Doctors have to scrub scrub scrub and use all kinds of stuff to make sure everything is sterilized and contaminant free....

Well we are doctors too...we perform surgery on automotive patients instead and for lack of a better description, any contaminant aka germ will cause a problem...that is guaranteed. I guarantee that! YOU MUST make sure it's absolutely clean cleaner than a doctor....think clean as what they do for space stuff...and you'll be about right! ;Poke
 

icanfixall

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Brakeclean and then JB weld the fitting in place....:sly:dunno That will not leak if the surface is clean first... Thats a world wide garentee..
 

oldblue05

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yeah, silicone is great stuff but has to have a great surface to work. I tried multiple times to make my rear diff cover stay sealed by just wiping everything down back in high school, then my dad told me the golden rule of our shop "you can never put too much prep work into it" this has proven time and time again with welding, painting and rtv sealant.. etc. So I took his advice and promptly got yelled at by mom for washing the cover off in the kitchen sink with dawn!:rotflmao:rotflmao:rotflmao then used brake cleaner and it sealed right up.
 

88beast

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well brake clean must dry
any residue from it will cause issues
and brake clean dont always get loose paint off
if it was me id wire wheel it to bare metal then use the epoxy
 

pybyr

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No personal experience doing fabrication with a valley pan-- but for things that can't hold up to welding, how about some careful brazing using a fitting with some wide flat surface to match up to the pan?
 

oldblue05

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well brake clean must dry
any residue from it will cause issues
and brake clean dont always get loose paint off
if it was me id wire wheel it to bare metal then use the epoxy

From what I've always understood is that brake cleaner leaves no residue, it's carb cleaner and engine degreaser that do; thus the whole point of using brake cleaner. Thats just what I have been told all my life, if I'm wrong somebody call me on it.
 
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