IP timing

[Torinojts]

That's his busiest time and right now is just him and one other. He put out a PSA on the IDI FB group.

Crash-Harris that is a lame excuse. I run a business and if i sent something out with out instructions it would not look good at all. I do not have FB. I searched this forum and others on this cam and have never seen a 1 tooth off timing. Now i have to take it all apart and time it right.
Laserjock thanks for the compliment. It is 8-9* BTDC. Runs smooth at idle, but really low power and extreme black smoke. I cant even drive the front tires up over a 2" lift in my concrete to get into the shop with out a small run at it.
Extremely disappointed in R&D customer service. I was looking at purchasing a stage 1 turbo from there i will now look else where.

 

[Thewespaul]

I agree completely. If you can’t get the instructions in with the orders then you call and inform every customer that is affected that you will be sending out the instructions separately on the company’s coin, or offer to email/fax them. Just sending the orders off and collecting a paycheck just figuring the customer will figure it out is bs. Really sorry you’ve had to deal with @Torinojts, this is no way to run a business.

 

[crash-harris]

Not defending anyone. I would certainly be upset by it. Just passing along the info.

 

[raydav]

It runs smooth at idle and all RPM and Power points. Power seems acceptable.

The only smoke I see is grey, sometimes, under load.

If I had not checked timing I might be temped to just call it done.

However, I have a Tach-N-Time. The mag pickup and timing light yield the same result. A result that I don't know what to do with.

Timing is plus eight at idle. Just off idle it starts to drop. By 2K RPM it is at plus two. If those numbers were negative they would make sense. But the timing light is analog. In real time I can watch the slot in the damper move clockwise from before zero.

Impossible or not?

 

[raydav]

I think maybe I am closer to understanding how timing changes over RPM and load. It does seem to be analogous to a gas engine distributor.

Inside the pump assembly is a mechanism that advances the pump as the speed of the pump increases; like the mechanical advance in a distributor.

The same RPM can be maintained by a wide range of accelerator positions depending on load, like flat road or pulling a hill. The vacuum advance control in a distributor provides for less advance at higher load. The cam and lever on a DB2 increases the spring pressure that the internal advance mechanism works against and reduces advance at high accelerator position.

The reason for setting timing at 2K RPM is that by that speed the cam that operates the advance restriction mechanism has reached it's maximum effect point.

I now have about 9 degrees at 2K and 14 at idle. And all seems well.

The pic below may help.

While you are there you might be interested in the evolution of my crankcase vent system. I followed a lot of talk about oil out of the CDR, and had my own issues with such. So now the whole CDR thing is capped off and replaced by vents from the valve covers and a Mann separator. No more oil.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/flU6gGVF5smIT10m1

 

[icanfixall]

Your idle timing means nothing. You need to forget about what you see at idle because its not something that changes anything. Please use the clamp mode timing with the mag probe and the clamp probe. this is called the pulse method of timing our engines. No more "looking" for a timing mark with a light. you set the J33300 meter for the pulse timing. connect the probes. Press the lower rocker switch once. See the meter reading change from SE-1 20.0 to all zeros. Start the engine and rev to 2000 plus or minus 25 rpm. that can't be any more simple. Then read the rpm and degrees of timing. shut down the engine and make adjustments till you get the timing you want. May take several timing shots to get the timing you want too. A timing like with an advance on it can be nice but its a more difficult way to time our engines especially in a tight quarters van application. Was great talking with you a few days ago too.

 

[Torinojts]

Long over due update. I took the front end apart and changed the R&D cam 1 tooth. Made sure pump still lined up with crank. First fired up and i could tell power was much better just by driving in the yard. Still not on highway, had to put glass in, lights, bumpers, wheels and tires, finish wiring everything. Program trans controller and all the other little things that go along. Fast forward after changing the cam tooth and all the above took on a road test. Power seams good, but still not where i think it should be. I am only getting 5 lbs boost and the EGTS will get to 950 after turbo, so i will let off throttle. I have changed the timing from anywhere from 10* down to 6*(current), still will not boost anymore and EGTS get high without pulling. Engine has a R&D 90cc pump, stage 1 injectors, and camshaft, head studs and comp springs, all installed about 8 years ago, just running the last 2 years with about 20 miles on said parts. Turbo is stock, play in turbo shaft is not excessive in my opinion. I can push, pull, lift the shaft and the wheels do not touch the housings. Also waste gate is removed. I have read and searched and tried so many different things with no change. As soon as you mash the go pedal black smoke starts to role, boosts slow to 5lbs and pyrometer climbs where i will back off. There also seams to be a doggy spot on the acceleration like it hits a wall for awhile. Any ideas would be great. Thanks

 

[Fordman1920032003]

So let me get this straight. I purchased an R&D cam, pump, and injectors. I have installed them in a fresh overhaul. No where is there any instruction sheets that come with the stage 1 cam. Do you offset the cam to crank? Or the pump to cam 1 gear tooth?

This is the r&d cam install sheet

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Thewespaul]

You said the wastegate is removed, is the arm wired shut or can it still move? If there’s no pressure holding it against the seat in the exhaust housing most the exhaust will bypass the wheel and you will hardly build boost. With my 150 pump and the same stock turbo I can build close to 20 psi intercooled, with the 90 pump you should see at least 10 psi.

 

[Torinojts]

It is wired shut.

 

[Thewespaul]

Gotcha, what do you have for a downpipe and intake? If you dont have a boost leak tester you can buy one or build one out of pvc or aluminum. You may have a leak at the back of the intake manifold at the cdr port or at the intake hat, but your boost has to be going somewhere, hopefully not an issue with the cam eating compression like some others have reported.

 

[Torinojts]

Stock intake. 3” DP. I will psi test the CAC and intake that is the one thing I have not checked

 

[Torinojts]

Went to check for leaks in the CAC and tubes. Found quite a bit of oil in the pipe off of the turbo. Funny that was not in there 10 miles ago when I check the shaft movement. No boost leaks, looks like I will be needing a turbo.

 

[Macrobb]

Went to check for leaks in the CAC and tubes. Found quite a bit of oil in the pipe off of the turbo. Funny that was not in there 10 miles ago when I check the shaft movement. No boost leaks, looks like I will be needing a turbo.

Unless you deleted the CDR, it's probably from that. Lots of oil vapors come through the crank case vent.

 

[Torinojts]

The CDR is deleted.