IP questions.

[79jasper]

Running waste oils. That's typically what you'll find. Kind of equal to putting stop leak in the a.c. system. Good luck getting a shop to touch it. Lol
Could be wrong, but I think Mel has stated that before. It would have to be cleaned first.

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[Thewespaul]

Water or any other contamination in the ip pose a threat to the test stand.

 

[Macrobb]

...All I see here are a bunch of scardy-cats who have probably not taken apart a pump before.

I hate to say it, but it's /not/ hard and you do /not/ need to have it recalibrated when you re-seal it.
Yes, it might be a "good idea", but it's not needed at all, as long as you are just re-sealing it and mark any "adjustment" you take out, put it back approximately to the same spot.

Well rebuilding a pump your going to have to have it calibrated on a giant machine otherwise you'll never know what it's putting out and when. Could be barely any fuel or could have tons of fuel. Yes you can take it apart and put it back together with new seals and stuff but it has to be calibrated on a test stand to peform in any way.

Yes and no. The only factor that will really influence "how much fuel" the pump puts out is the "fuel screw" inside the pump. You do /not/ need to remove this screw when disassembling the pump for just a re-seal, and therefor it won't matter.

Even if the pump does change a bit, you can just tune it "by feel" - Drive it and floor it. If you see more than a haze at full throttle, 2500RPM, turn the screw down 1 flat. If no smoke at all, turn it up 1 flat. Repeat until you are happy with how it does.

The one adjustment that you will end up messing with is the "guide stud" at the back of the pump. This affects the "pick up" of the pump when you let off the throttle. Too far in and it'll be "twichy", want to rev really quickly and a very sensitive throttle. To far out and it will droop below idle speed(or even die) when letting off the throttle quickly.
If you simply count how many threads are showing before and after, put it to the same spot... you'll be plenty close.
Even going from normal(usually 1/4" out) to all the way in will still work, it will just feel a bit weird to drive, especially in neutral.

OP, when you do the re-seal job, make sure to find the Stanadyne Service Manual pages detailing teardown and rebuild. There is a digital copy floating around; if you can't find it, PM me.
These pages explain step by step how to disassemble and reassemble it.

 

[79jasper]

Sure, doing it for yourself, no problem.
But sending it in afterwards is a slightly different story.

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[Macrobb]

But sending it in afterwards is a slightly different story.

I'm saying you don't really need to, and I explained the reasons why.

 

[Thewespaul]

Or.... don’t tear into it at all. Usually if a pump is leaking externally it’s in need of a rebuild with hard parts needing replaced that you won’t find in the seal kit. I would pull the top cover off the pump and make sure it’s pretty clean inside and just install it and see how it does. It’ll either work or it won’t, and you won’t be out any money just a bit of elbow grease.

 

[Thewespaul]

I do also agree that you can reseal a pump without needing to recal it, I’ve done it and I know @Greg5OH did this successfully as well.

 

[KodiakForge]

Well macrobb that was more what I was looking for.

The marking and returning things to past adjustments is kind of common practice when taking things apart. In my reading and searching I’ve always found calibration was needed and though that is maybe more certain I’d like to learn how to take care of it myself. I’m glad to hear another possible way.

 

[KodiakForge]

Guess I felt there wasn’t any way around having it calibrated. Now that I do know this. I likely will give it a shot myself.