IP Pump Questions

[boxathey]

I just installed a freshly rebuilt IP pump I purchased at a local diesel shop. (http://www.wimerfuelinjection.com/). It has a factory turbo, the IP pump was calibrated for a factory turbo also. after start up I let it warm up. Then using the timing meter I rented off of icanfixall i timed it to 9.1 btdc @ 2000 rpm using the #4 cylinder I also had the air cleaner housing removed, and temporarily installed a dryer vent to prevent sucking any debris during the timing process. took it for a test drive last night, the truck ran great, good power, turbo spooled up nicely. I drove it all over town thru out the day about 50 miles or so. I noticed black smoke out the exhaust. I get some about 1/4 to 1/2 throttle when shifting into the next gear. mostly 2nd to 3rd. and 3rd to 4th. its not a crazy amount of black smoke but it is definately noticeable and consistant when on the throttle. Is this normal for these trucks ? I ask this because for the four or five years Ive owned the truck I have never seen black smoke except on rare occasions. I decided to throw the timing meter on it again after the driving except instead of using the #4 cylinder I used the #1 cylinder. (#4 cylinder is blocked from the air cleaner housing) I also left the air cleaner assembly completely attached. the timing meter read 5.5 @2000 rpm. is it possible getting a different reading cause i used cylinder #1 this time ? Or because when i timed it the first time i had the air cleaner off ? Or is there a break in on the pump and i need to re time it after a couple hundred miles ? Tomorrow im going to check the timing again using the #4 cylinder like i did when i first installed the pump and see what the readings are. Thanks for all the help.. By using the tech article i found on this site. It made installing this ip pump a breeze. also a special thanks to icanfixall for his timing rental program its been a huge help.

 

[Wyreth]

Honestly, you should get at least a little puff of black to start when you punch it. However, constantly? I think you're wasting a bit of fuel.
I cannot answer the timing meter questions. However, I do have a question for you:

What do your EGT's look like? Are they high?

you may just want to bump your fuel down half a flat or so.

 

[Agnem]

You should get the same timing on both cylinders. Something is wrong. First question, was the engine at operating temp both times? Possibly your cold advance was on if not the one time, and then off the second time. Aside from that, my guess is your advance piston is sticking. A typical problem for a low quality rebuild. Check the timing throughout the RPM range. You should see the same readings at the same engine speeds. If it is moving all over the place.... advance piston problems.

 

[boxathey]

I'm going to check it again today when I get out of work. Operating temps pretty close. When you say same reading s at same engine speed do you mean for example at 1000 rpm it reads 10.0 and 1500 rpm 9.0 and 2000 8.5 each time I test it at those rpms it should stay consistent

 

[boxathey]

My coolant temp was 130 when I originally timed it, when I eed it yesterday it was 160

 

[Agnem]

Yes that's correct.

 

[icanfixall]

Well... It sounds like either something is sticking in the pump or your timing has slipped some. Either way do check both number 1 & 4 cylinders when timing. That will tell you lots about whats going on. Mel taught me something neet about timing. It wont matter what temp the engine is at if you remove the injection pump electrical advance wire and the wire to the fast idle solenoid. Then your working on an engine that wont burn you... Thats a winning proposition right there. The back wire on the injection pump is the electrical internal advance. The front wire is the fuel shutoff solenoid. The exhaust smoke could easily be the shop turned up the fuel just a bit to much too. I'm hopeing the pump is ok because its a bad deal when you do all the work and find out you have a poorly rebuilt pump. Clearly at this point nothing is telling us that. Further testing will tell you whats going on. Sorry I missed your call too and thank you for being part of the timing program.
One more thing is what contition is the air filter and is the air inlet to the filter blocked in any way. Understanding you have a factory turbo truck I think you can remove the flexible air intake to the filter from the core support area. You will be sucking warmer air from under the hood but thats something that will illiminate possible sucken stravation issues for air. A dirty air filter will do the same. I don't know what injection pump was on the engine before but it may have been a lesser pump with the fuel delivery much lower than what you have now too.

 

[boxathey]

Thanks for all the good advice. I got my coolant temps to 160-170 I removed my flexible air housing duct. (air filter is in good condition) attached to #1 cylinder. I got the same results as yesterday. 6.5 btdc. ran the test a few times at different rpms as stated by Agnem. the timing did stay consistent. I shut it down for ten minutes then did the same series of tests again, the timing stayed consistent. So I bumped it up a few times till i got to 8.0-8.2 btdc. I ran the truck up and down the road for about ten miles, Parked it. then checked again. @ 2000 rpm it was still at 8.0-8.2. I figured after a couple days of driving Id check it one more time then call it good.

Now on to the black smoke. I do not have an egt gauge but i will order one in the next day so i cant tell what my egts are. I dont think im going to adjust my fuel screw until i install the pyro. the black smoke is not blinding in any way it is just noticable at about half throttle at lower rpm range. Im just not used to it, I definately dont want to put unwanted stress on my engine by over fueling it.

Its amazing how my truck sounds so much different now at idle cold and warm with this new pump on and with it being timed correctly It makes me think my trucks timing was retarded for years. it was the original pump

 

[Agnem]

It probably was retarded. All pumps decrease fuel delvery and retard with wear. They really do need a "tune up" every 20,000 miles or so.

 

[boxathey]

as of yesterday i ordered a auto meter pyrometer. It should be here on Monday. I do have a couple questions on installing it. with having a factory turbo can I safely drill and tap the manifold while still attached to the engine ? I certainly dont want any metal shavings hurting my turbo. what cylinder exhaust do you recommend putting the probe ?

 

[Blind Driver2]

It probably was retarded. All pumps decrease fuel delvery and retard with wear. They really do need a "tune up" every 20,000 miles or so.

That word is nor longer socially acceptable

My pump takes offense at your insensitivity