IP Adjustment

[icanfixall]

Glad you fixed the line leak. Yes... The number 2 injector line at the bottom is hell to reach. And nope.. The snapon special 5/8 cut socket will not reach this area.I even ground the hell out of my socket but still not fitting. It will fit other lines because of the line bends at the pump. ut not number 2 line..

 

[Spun4Fun]

Line # 7 still showing a weak sign of some Leak enough to pose a small PITA for all the work I have done .

Does Any one have a spare line for #7 injector ( passenger side fatheset one behind the GP relay)

Would a touch of pipe dope help? Just curious

 

[icanfixall]

Nothing will stop this leak.No pipe dope or anything. Time to replace the line with new or take a chance the used replacement will also leak.

 

[Spun4Fun]

Is it the line usually cause the leak or fitting or it's not tight enough and how much tourque we talking over them Nuts ?

It's not gushing out fuel like it was by any mean if it's any thing it's 95% improved . it's just slightly Wet fitting compare the rest.

I even placed a mirror under it reved Eng up pretty good but it hasn't made a single drop over it even at that higher RPM, am sure it will but

 

[BrianX128]

It's not as much the leak as it would be the air intrusion as it sits and drains back that will bother you. That, and if it is cracked it will only get worse on a heavily vibrating diesel engine.

New lines can be had for 40 or 50$ online if you do some searching.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

If you couldn't see it leak, before you buy a new line, I'd clean it off with carb cleaner or brake cleaner. Then blow it off with compressed air to remove all of the fuel residue. Then start it up again and check to see if the wetness comes back. I'm not guaranteeing anything, but there is a slim chance that it could just be fuel left over from the leak.

 

[Spun4Fun]

Brings me to think

If you couldn't see it leak, before you buy a new line, I'd clean it off with carb cleaner or brake cleaner. Then blow it off with compressed air to remove all of the fuel residue. Then start it up again and check to see if the wetness comes back. I'm not guaranteeing anything, but there is a slim chance that it could just be fuel left over from the leak.

You right , might try that for sure and keep an eye. good thing at least it's the injector that it can be taken in and out without any hassle or hanging upside down, looking back ward, tear the hole truck down all over agin if comes down to replace it.



On a good note i had my son drive it so i can get his feedback, he was blown away by the major grunt, responsiveness , power delivery this pump has 85cc vs stocker sure moves that beast without Intercooler YET

 

[Macrobb]

I'd use a paper towel to figure out where the leak is. If it's coming out the top of the nut, then yes, it's probably the line.
If it's coming out the top of the plastic cap, then it could be from the line, but probably is just the O-ring.

Make sure to use high temp lithium grease on your O-rings when installing them; it really works to prevent leaks.

 

[Spun4Fun]

drove the truck for about 30 miles +/- or so, Line #7 are dry and not spitting fuel like it was 2 days ago but very and i mean VERY light moist nothing even noticeable, Nothing to bother me for now specially after having the truck down for almost 3 month .

found a brand new Line for #7 well priced on E-bay, going to order it and replace it regardless , in the mean time i am going to put the 7.3 to work



Thanks every one for amazing support specially (Bill and Gary), endless info, Patient and technical guides thru this process from every one on this thread and the hole forum .

 

[OLDBULL8]

A leaking line at the nut is sometimes caused when the end is not exactly lined up, the end is like a bullet nose and has to fit exactly straight into the injector or IP, you cannot tighten enough to stop a leak if it's not that way.

 

[Spun4Fun]

So i ordered from E-bay a line #7 it arrived but it's not the OEM, However its shaped 100% like it but thinner line and fitted ok on the injector side but not as easy on the pump side, i am going to return it regardless as it did not do the trick. In fact it leaked worse could be the alignment or me.But i wasn't to happy with the product.

I took a closer look with a mirror and found the alignment seems to be off between the female part of the pump and the flared end of the line male side so i slightly adjusted the line by flexing it which fitted 100% . However after a 370 mile trip it started to drip again. could it be not enough torque on the nut or i still have the same possibility of bad line ? How much torque should i apply ..hand tight and more ???




BTW the new pump jumped my MPG to almost double i was so happy not to stop and fill up during my 370 mile trip

 

[crash-harris]

IIRC, nut torque is about 26 lbs/in.

 

[Spun4Fun]

IIRC, nut torque is about 26 lbs/in.

Extremely difficult to gage how much tour am applying due to the spot, i have been beating my self since loosing that line at the time i was doing the timing adjustment


never seen a torque wrench can get in there



I found NOS OEM line #& to keep it handy in case

 

[crash-harris]

It's a difficult spot to get a crowsfoot intro. Someone may have over tightened that line in the past.

 

[Spun4Fun]

It's a difficult spot to get a crowsfoot intro. Someone may have over tightened that line in the past.

It's new IP , what's overnighting could do , Flare the end more and cause it to slow drip at high RPM's ?