79jasper
Chickenhawk
Yes it would.
Intermittent power loss
- Thread starter homelessduck
- Start date
Dsl_Dog_Treat
I lost my face to the jaws of a poodle
This is sounding like a FSV blockage to me homelessduck.Mater did the same exact thing to me a couple years back. Ran cocktails in the summer then straight diesel in the winter. Some days would run fine, others made ya want to shove a stick of dynamite in the air filter and walk away.
Grab an electric fuel pump and test flow rates at various points of the fuel delivery system starting at the lift pump then work your way back to the tanks. My shiny dime bet is gone be at the FSV.
Grab an electric fuel pump and test flow rates at various points of the fuel delivery system starting at the lift pump then work your way back to the tanks. My shiny dime bet is gone be at the FSV.
homelessduck
Full Access Member
Does these have quick disconnect lines (94) ? I crawled under it and looked but I couldn't see how it connects to.the fsv, only the short pieces coming from the fsv to the hard line. Those just look molded over the hard line. It would be easier for me to troubleshoot it if I could replaces the lines with rubber hose. I hate quick disconnects and the hard plastic lines.
Did you have to clean your tanks out?
Did you have to clean your tanks out?
Yeah, there are quick connects on the FVS. The location of that stinking valve is terrible. Right next to the front tank and it's a PITA to get the clips in and out of the connectors. Plus, be ready for a diesel bath when you pull those lines. I've tryed all kinds of stuff to plug the ends over the years and nothing really works well on the nylon fuel lines.
Heath
Heath
Dsl_Dog_Treat
I lost my face to the jaws of a poodle
X2 what Heath said. Those FSV connectors just plain ole suck!
homelessduck
Full Access Member
I'm thinking I will hook an electric pump to the supply line at the lift pump and use it to drain both tanks. Then disconnect the lines at the tank in an aggressive manner, remove the fsv in a similar way. Then slip 3/8 hose on the tanks, run the supply lines to a spin on filter, then to the metal lines. The supply and return lines will then run to manual valves in the cab.
I'm hoping this way will eliminate the need to drop the tanks. I'd rather go.through a few filters than drop the tanks ..
I guess my next concern is whether or not the lift pump can suck through the extra filter.
I'm hoping this way will eliminate the need to drop the tanks. I'd rather go.through a few filters than drop the tanks ..
I guess my next concern is whether or not the lift pump can suck through the extra filter.
homelessduck
Full Access Member
I picked up 2 1/2" ball valves and 1/2-3/8 barbs .. $95. Geez. Heading home to tear into it soon.
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79jasper
Chickenhawk
Do like the old trucks and put the valve beside the drivers seat. 
homelessduck
Full Access Member
Do like the old trucks and put the valve beside the drivers seat.
That's the plan
.I drained the tanks, removed the fsv, and dropped the front tank. The front tank was pretty clean and the pickup was still attached. I'm not too concerned that it was clean, I have been thinking the issue is with the rear tank and fsv anyway.
I took the fsv apart to see how it worked .. I'm glad it isn't going back in. What a dinky design! !
With the front tank selected I was able to blow through it but it felt a little restricted. I switched it to the rear and could not blow through it. I tried with the compressor and it barely blew through! !
I know the valves could have been purchased online at a cheaper price but I need it running asap so I couldn't wait for shipping.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Gotta do whatcha gotta do! At least now you won't be relying on electronic control. Just gotta figure a way for the fuel gauge to work on both tanks. Shouldn't be to hard though.
homelessduck
Full Access Member
I actually asked about converting to manual valves awhile back. I went back and read the thread and found the information for connecting the gauges.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Got a link? I'd like to take a peak.
homelessduck
Full Access Member
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?53265-Electric-FSV-manual-valves-questions
I had ripped a nipple off my fsv and was trying to figure put the best route to take. Truck ended up being scrapped.
I had ripped a nipple off my fsv and was trying to figure put the best route to take. Truck ended up being scrapped.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
That's pretty good info. I guess I really don't even need two tanks. Being as I can't afford to fill both up! Haha
homelessduck
Full Access Member
I'm having some trouble visioning how the senders are wired. Does the wiring go from the tank, to the fsv, to the tank switch then to the gauge? Does it require something from the fsv to function? I would think the senders just run from the tanks, to the tank switch then to the gauge. In that case, wouldn't the senders still work without having to rewire them to another switch? It would be really convenient if I could still use the factory tank switch to switch between senders.
Edit: I re-read my old thread and it pretty much answered my question. ... I've been running on almost zero sleep so my brain is pretty foggy and slow .
I had to run back to motion flow, so far I'm into this swap about $140.
As soon as I get home I'm going to drop the rear tank. Hopefully I'll have this finished today, before the sun goes down and it gets COLD.
Edit: I re-read my old thread and it pretty much answered my question. ... I've been running on almost zero sleep so my brain is pretty foggy and slow
.I had to run back to motion flow, so far I'm into this swap about $140.
As soon as I get home I'm going to drop the rear tank. Hopefully I'll have this finished today, before the sun goes down and it gets COLD.
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