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Thread: Electric FSV - manual valves questions.

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    Full Access Member homelessduck's Avatar
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    Default Electric FSV - manual valves questions.


    I've been reading thread after thread on the subject but its still hard for me to picture the setup . I ripped a nipple off of my FSV and am trying to decide between the universal FSV and a manual valve conversion . I am also wanting to "Y" in an electric fuel pump that I can switch to for bleeding .. I know its not that difficult , but I can't seem to draw out a solution that works .. probably because of my lack of knowledge as to where the lines run to on the tank . Also , how would you be able to switch between sending units ?

    I know this has been discussed multiple times, so sorry for the repeat ..

    Does anyone have a diagram the possibly drew up during a similar conversion ??

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    Full Access Member homelessduck's Avatar
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    This is what I've been able to come up with ...

    Thoughts ?
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    Lines routing looks correct, but I'd probably plumb the e-pump in parallel with the mechanical one, this way you ain't pushing fuel against its diaphragm. heck it may be a better idea to put the e-pump between the mechanical lift pump and the fuel filter, also place the junction that returns fuel from it into the main line right next to the 3-way valve - this way there will be no air trapped in the line between the valve and the junction, which is possible the way you have it drawn now...

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    Sorry to hear about the ripped nipple.....
    My FSV suffered the same fate while I was laying under the truck trying to pull the lines off to bypass them because the FSV was pulling out of the front tank and over flowing the rear.
    I switched over to manual valves, and ran a Carter pump parallel to the stock lift pump. Midnight Rider is the one who first turned me on to this setup. I believe he just left all the wiring there, and uses the stock tank selector switch to change the gauge between reading the front or rear tank. Not exactly sure if it works that way once the FSV has been deleted. I cheated and use 2 separate aftermarket fuel gauges; one for each tank.
    I've got a couple pics of the fuel pump/check valve setup. Don't have any of the valves/plumbing, but I can get a couple if any one is interested. I mounted the fuel pump on the frame rail just behind the transfer case (you can see it in the right side of the 2nd pic). Mounted the valves through the floor just to the left of the driver's seat.
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    Mike

    1984 F350 Crew Cab 4x4 SRW, originally a Gasser/Auto truck. Now Sportin':
    7.3IDI, ATS 088 Turbo, PSD Intercooler, York On Board Air, ZF-5, Lucky Mod, 4.10 gears, Hydroboost, Air bags in rear, 3" Straight Pipe, 35" Mud Terrains, Carter electric fuel pump run parallel to stock lift pump, Manual Fuel selector valves, Custom gauge cluster, Explorer OHC, Coolant Filter, Group 31 Batteries, 4/0 Battery Cables, 3G alternator, Windstar electric fan conversion, Clutch Linkage Heim Joint Mod, Headlight Relay Mod, Running Light Relay Mod, Manual GP's

    Gearing up for a SAS....

    2002 Cougar 281BHS 31' Fifth Wheel

    2006 Home Made Harley

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    Full Access Member homelessduck's Avatar
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    The E pump would only be used for bleeding , so if it was ran parallel with the list pump wouldn't it have to suck through the E pump ?

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    Bike-Maker, that is one EMPTY frame rail there! Mine is so busy it's ridiculous - on top of the fuel lines there's also an air line, and like three fat electrical harnesses... Speaking of, where the heck is your main harness, the one for the rear lights and trailer connectors?

    Quote Originally Posted by homelessduck View Post
    The E pump would only be used for bleeding , so if it was ran parallel with the list pump wouldn't it have to suck through the E pump ?
    Not with the the 3-way valve before the pumps, it effectively closes off the pump you ain't using so fuel cannot flow through it and be sucked by the running pump.

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    Full Access Member homelessduck's Avatar
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    Definitely interested In pics . Thanks !

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    Full Access Member homelessduck's Avatar
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    So .. same line route but instead of the E pump being on the diverted line it would be on the main line , and the diverted line would just be fuel line ? Just want to make sure I understand .

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    The harness for the rear lights are in there, as well as the brake lines, with an additional 1/4" air line for the rear air bags, and 4 extra wires for the trailer wiring. I just bundled it all together and zip-tied the hell out of it.
    Homeless, the way I have mine run, I hardly ever use the electric. Only if I need to prime the system, or while I'm running the glow plugs if it hasn't been started for a while (came in real handy a couple of times). With the use of 2 check valves and 1 on/off valve, I could run the truck off of the electric only, and even cut flow off to the stock lift pump in case the diaphragm ruptured and was puking fuel into the engine oil.
    Mike

    1984 F350 Crew Cab 4x4 SRW, originally a Gasser/Auto truck. Now Sportin':
    7.3IDI, ATS 088 Turbo, PSD Intercooler, York On Board Air, ZF-5, Lucky Mod, 4.10 gears, Hydroboost, Air bags in rear, 3" Straight Pipe, 35" Mud Terrains, Carter electric fuel pump run parallel to stock lift pump, Manual Fuel selector valves, Custom gauge cluster, Explorer OHC, Coolant Filter, Group 31 Batteries, 4/0 Battery Cables, 3G alternator, Windstar electric fan conversion, Clutch Linkage Heim Joint Mod, Headlight Relay Mod, Running Light Relay Mod, Manual GP's

    Gearing up for a SAS....

    2002 Cougar 281BHS 31' Fifth Wheel

    2006 Home Made Harley

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    Full Access Member homelessduck's Avatar
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    Any chance you have a parts list for that setup ? I want to set mine up identical to yours . Also , happen to have a diagram ? I'm having trouble visualizing everything, lol .

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    I can draw up a diagram if needed, but I'll try describing it first......
    Fuel lines come from the tanks and go directly to the 3 way tank selector valves. From the tank selector valves to the electric fuel pump setup seen in my first pic posted above. Return line just goes from the valve up to the engine.
    On the fuel pump setup, you can see a Y right before it goes to the electric pump; the line that doesn't go through the e-pump goes to the stock lift pump (includes shut-off valve just in case). The line from the e-pump is a second line run up to and T'd into the inlet at the fuel filter housing. So off of the fuel pump setup, there are 2 separate fuel lines running up to the filter head, 1 of them going through the stock lift pump on the way.
    The check valves are the 2 little canister looking things in the pic. They keep the fuel lines full up to the filter housing.
    1 other thing to add; my truck was originally a gasser, so ALL the fuel line in it is rubber (diesel rated, of course).
    Those who are really paying attention will notice that if my stock lift pump puked, I could just flip on the electric, but if the diaphragm ruptured, the fuel could still go through the T at the filter head and back feed down to the lift pump and continue filling the crank case with diesel. The check valve for the stock lift pump side of the system should be AFTER the lift pump, not before it as I have it. Gonna have to fix that here someday.
    Mike

    1984 F350 Crew Cab 4x4 SRW, originally a Gasser/Auto truck. Now Sportin':
    7.3IDI, ATS 088 Turbo, PSD Intercooler, York On Board Air, ZF-5, Lucky Mod, 4.10 gears, Hydroboost, Air bags in rear, 3" Straight Pipe, 35" Mud Terrains, Carter electric fuel pump run parallel to stock lift pump, Manual Fuel selector valves, Custom gauge cluster, Explorer OHC, Coolant Filter, Group 31 Batteries, 4/0 Battery Cables, 3G alternator, Windstar electric fan conversion, Clutch Linkage Heim Joint Mod, Headlight Relay Mod, Running Light Relay Mod, Manual GP's

    Gearing up for a SAS....

    2002 Cougar 281BHS 31' Fifth Wheel

    2006 Home Made Harley

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    Full Access Member homelessduck's Avatar
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    I'm pretty sure I understand .. but if you get bored , I would love a diagram . And .. if you happen to have a parts list you would be my hero . I am without a vehicle until this is fixed , and I'm sure the person I bum a ride from wouldn't be very happy about me spending an hour at the hardware store trying to piece it together , haha .
    Sorry about the typos .. Posting from my phone .

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    Parts list is gonna be kinda rough because I had most of it already.
    FWIW, adding the parallel electric pump can be done afterward. Sounds like you need to get yours converted to the manual valves, and you can worry about the e-pump later on (that's how I did it)
    I got the valves from Mcmaster-Carr Part #4373K52
    Then I used 6 - 3/8" Street 90's, 3 - 3/8" NPT x 3/8" hose barbs (for supply lines), and 3- 3/8" NPT x 5/16" hose barbs (for return lines)
    Tear the stock electric FSV out of the truck, then you'll just have to extend the four fuel lines coming from your fuel tanks up to the new manual ball valves. I you're still running that stock plastic hard line stuff, you can probably just hose clamp some rubber fuel line over the top of the existing line. 3/8" for the supply side, 5/16" for the return side. And make sure you get the hose that's rated for diesel.
    I'll try to take some pics of the valves in the morning for you.
    Mike

    1984 F350 Crew Cab 4x4 SRW, originally a Gasser/Auto truck. Now Sportin':
    7.3IDI, ATS 088 Turbo, PSD Intercooler, York On Board Air, ZF-5, Lucky Mod, 4.10 gears, Hydroboost, Air bags in rear, 3" Straight Pipe, 35" Mud Terrains, Carter electric fuel pump run parallel to stock lift pump, Manual Fuel selector valves, Custom gauge cluster, Explorer OHC, Coolant Filter, Group 31 Batteries, 4/0 Battery Cables, 3G alternator, Windstar electric fan conversion, Clutch Linkage Heim Joint Mod, Headlight Relay Mod, Running Light Relay Mod, Manual GP's

    Gearing up for a SAS....

    2002 Cougar 281BHS 31' Fifth Wheel

    2006 Home Made Harley

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    Bike-Maker's pictures explain it pretty well.


    As for the gauges, I just connected the existing gauge-wires that were on the FSV through a SPDT toggle-switch that pokes through the floor in proximity of the two manual valves.

    I oriented the switch such that the handle points fore and aft; thus, handle pointed fore is FRONT tank and handle pointed aft is REAR tank.


    The gauge sender wires are very simple in that there is a single wire that proceeds to the gauge and two other single wires, one for FRONT and one for REAR.

    Just put the gauge wire on the center switch terminal, the FRONT sender wire on the aft terminal, and the REAR sender wire on the fore terminal.

    It has been so many years that I can't remember if there was enough wire already there to accomplish all this, or if I spliced on some extra lengths.
    1985 F-350 repowered with a 1989 6BT CUMMINS

    THE DIESEL POWER UNIT UNDER YOUR HOOD IS AN ENGINE


    MOTORS ARE ELECTRIC

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    Pics as promised;
    1st is the valves running off of the front tank
    2nd is of the valves running off of the rear tank
    3rd is the underside of the cab
    From the valves, the lines run over the top of the frame rail and are then tucked inside the frame rail back to the tanks.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Mike

    1984 F350 Crew Cab 4x4 SRW, originally a Gasser/Auto truck. Now Sportin':
    7.3IDI, ATS 088 Turbo, PSD Intercooler, York On Board Air, ZF-5, Lucky Mod, 4.10 gears, Hydroboost, Air bags in rear, 3" Straight Pipe, 35" Mud Terrains, Carter electric fuel pump run parallel to stock lift pump, Manual Fuel selector valves, Custom gauge cluster, Explorer OHC, Coolant Filter, Group 31 Batteries, 4/0 Battery Cables, 3G alternator, Windstar electric fan conversion, Clutch Linkage Heim Joint Mod, Headlight Relay Mod, Running Light Relay Mod, Manual GP's

    Gearing up for a SAS....

    2002 Cougar 281BHS 31' Fifth Wheel

    2006 Home Made Harley

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