homelessduck
Full Access Member
Is there a reason to NOT put check valves at both tank ends of the supply lines? Just trying to make it has efficient as I can while it's torn apart.
Intermittent power loss
- Thread starter homelessduck
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79jasper
Chickenhawk
I forget why, but I think some people said it's not a good idea.
homelessduck
Full Access Member
Almost finished .. should be wrapped up tomorrow. I couldn't finish it today because I need more 5/16 for the returns. I ended up mounting the valves on the trans tunnel. I originally planned for them to be to the left of the driver seat but there just wasn't enough room. My valves are 1/2" , I'm guessing the people that mounted theirs by the seat used smaller valves.
A bonus is that with it right over the trans it should help warm the fuel.
I can't wait to see if this fixed my issues, and what my fuel pressure will be.
A bonus is that with it right over the trans it should help warm the fuel.
I can't wait to see if this fixed my issues, and what my fuel pressure will be.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Sweet. Running it over the trans should help for your wmo.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
I found this for the tank selector.
"The six-port diesel fuel valve is powered by a small electric motor which opens and closes the valve ports. The supply and return ports for either tank open and close simultaneously. The valve is shifted to the front mode (that is, the front supply and return ports open to the engine supply and engine return port respectively) by applying a positive 12 volts to terminal 2 and ground to terminal 1. When the valve reaches the front mode position, an internal switch opens the circuit and stops the motor. Returning the valve to the rear mode is accomplished by reversing the current: positive 12 volts to terminal 1 and ground to terminal 2. Terminals 3 and 5 connect to the front and rear fuel tank senders respectively, and terminal 4 feeds the fuel gauge. In the front tank mode, an internal switch connects terminal 3 to terminal 4, thus supplying the front tank sender signal to the fuel gauge. Terminals 4 and 5 are connected in the rear tank mode. Therefore, a change in the fuel gauge reading (assuming at least 1/4 tank fuel level difference), means that the valve has shifted."
That sould help for wiring the level senders to work. I could probably figure it out, but it's late.
"The six-port diesel fuel valve is powered by a small electric motor which opens and closes the valve ports. The supply and return ports for either tank open and close simultaneously. The valve is shifted to the front mode (that is, the front supply and return ports open to the engine supply and engine return port respectively) by applying a positive 12 volts to terminal 2 and ground to terminal 1. When the valve reaches the front mode position, an internal switch opens the circuit and stops the motor. Returning the valve to the rear mode is accomplished by reversing the current: positive 12 volts to terminal 1 and ground to terminal 2. Terminals 3 and 5 connect to the front and rear fuel tank senders respectively, and terminal 4 feeds the fuel gauge. In the front tank mode, an internal switch connects terminal 3 to terminal 4, thus supplying the front tank sender signal to the fuel gauge. Terminals 4 and 5 are connected in the rear tank mode. Therefore, a change in the fuel gauge reading (assuming at least 1/4 tank fuel level difference), means that the valve has shifted."
That sould help for wiring the level senders to work. I could probably figure it out, but it's late.
redneckaggie
rebel w/o a cause
I wouldnt see why it would be a bad idea to put check valves in there
79jasper
Chickenhawk
I thought I read where people didn't think it was a good idea. Or wasn't needed.
Myself, I'd do it.
homelessduck
Full Access Member
Thanks Jasper, that definitely helps!!
I didn't get to fire it up today but it is basically finished.
Have a question regarding my supply line route. I originally planned to run it to the frame rail and up to the lift pump. This put the line 4" from the dp. If I had a heat sheath on hand I would have done it, but it worried me without one. Instead I ran it up the back of the engine, similar to the return line, THEN it goes UNDER the rear of the intake manifold, pops out by the fuel filter and runs down to the lift pump. I figured this would help a lot with thicker wmo blends. It was a snug fit, I didn't have to shove it through but it also isn't flopping around under there. It was a perfect fit.
Now, does anyone see an issue with it being routed like this?
I didn't get to fire it up today but it is basically finished.
Have a question regarding my supply line route. I originally planned to run it to the frame rail and up to the lift pump. This put the line 4" from the dp. If I had a heat sheath on hand I would have done it, but it worried me without one. Instead I ran it up the back of the engine, similar to the return line, THEN it goes UNDER the rear of the intake manifold, pops out by the fuel filter and runs down to the lift pump. I figured this would help a lot with thicker wmo blends. It was a snug fit, I didn't have to shove it through but it also isn't flopping around under there. It was a perfect fit.
Now, does anyone see an issue with it being routed like this?
homelessduck
Full Access Member
The hose is rated for 257* .
For anyone replacing their lines with rubber .. I strongly recommend using Parker 39706. It is FAR better than Gates barricade that is rated for biodiesel.
For anyone replacing their lines with rubber .. I strongly recommend using Parker 39706. It is FAR better than Gates barricade that is rated for biodiesel.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
I don't really see a problem with it. We'll see what everyone else thinks.
On second thought though, you said downpipe. I didn't think you were turbo'd. (probably slipped my mind)
I could see the routing being a problem if it's anywhere near the turbo. The return lines are fine there because the have low pressure in them. Not enough to pop a hose open.
Now the supply line could be a problem. Heat will weaken it a bit no matter what. Buy also since it will have a vacuum on it, it could easily collapse. Especially with could wmo.
So I guess just keep an eye on your fuel pressure with engine up to temp driving. (Not just idle temp)
On second thought though, you said downpipe. I didn't think you were turbo'd. (probably slipped my mind)
I could see the routing being a problem if it's anywhere near the turbo. The return lines are fine there because the have low pressure in them. Not enough to pop a hose open.
Now the supply line could be a problem. Heat will weaken it a bit no matter what. Buy also since it will have a vacuum on it, it could easily collapse. Especially with could wmo.
So I guess just keep an eye on your fuel pressure with engine up to temp driving. (Not just idle temp)
homelessduck
Full Access Member
I guess I'll just have to warm it up and see what happens 
. The hose I used is a very well made hose and I don't think it will collapse, but I also don't know how hot it will get being routed as it is. It's farther away from the turbo than it would have been if I routed it across to the frame rail. I always thin my wmo very close to the viscosity of diesel so the vacuum shouldn't be too bad.
. The hose I used is a very well made hose and I don't think it will collapse, but I also don't know how hot it will get being routed as it is. It's farther away from the turbo than it would have been if I routed it across to the frame rail. I always thin my wmo very close to the viscosity of diesel so the vacuum shouldn't be too bad.
homelessduck
Full Access Member
So far so good other than a slight leak on one of the valves.
Here are a few pictures :
Here are a few pictures :
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79jasper
Chickenhawk
Ah I see now. Shouldn't have a problem with the heat. Could just get some of that aluminum tape and wrap it just in case. Did you dope your metal fittings? If not, that could be your leak.
homelessduck
Full Access Member
I used type 3 aviation sealant. It's leaking from the 90* fitting where it has a cone type of seal. I really don't know what to call it.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Yeah I just read the other thread. Any reason you used the 90's you choose?
I'd drop those and get normal brass 90's.
I'd drop those and get normal brass 90's.
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