Injector pump fuel leak! Is this a common failure?

[TDI]

Hello,

So yesterday I spend way too much time chasing a big fuel leak that I thought was the new fuel lift pump but it turned out to be a leaking IP.

As best I can see, the fuel leak is coming from the rear of the pump where the injector line circular manifold meets the circular IP housing.

I see of no way to tighten this connection it looks like this line manifold is pressed into the pump body unless I am missing something and the leak is coming from a fitting that I cant see, Ill check the leak with an inspection mirror.

This problem did not show up until i removed the electric fuel pump that the PO installed and installed a new lift pump, the leak should have nothing to do with the lift pump change, just a funny coincidence.... or not ?

Apart from this obvious problem the truck is running fine even with the fuel leak.

It has less than 200 miles on new Conestoga diesel injectors.

Of course I don't want to pull / change the pump. I am not very well versed in these engines but I would tackle a IP change, especially because I know of no good diesel mechanics around here.

I have a spare IP sitting in the garage, I bought that pump from a guy last summer for 70$, he claims that it works fine - it has a rebuilders tag on it. I bought it for the fuel lines when I was doing the injectors but wound up not needing them.

I could install this spare pump but its a crap shoot if its any good.

So where do I start if I need a new IP?

Does anyone have a good link to directions on how to change an IP and the tools I would need?

Lots of info here and i am grateful for it all , trying to piece it all together.

Thanks

 

[gandalf]

The best write-up we've got was written a number of years ago by Mel, Agnem on the board here. I believe you said you bought injectors from him.

The article is HERE.


To R&R the IP you will need only the first section of the article. You'll be able to figure that part out. I'd suggest that you do what I did when I changed out my IP. Print out the relative section and have it handy while you work.

BE SURE: Remove the IP from the gear tower when you pull it. DO NOT remove the gear tower. Remove the IP and the hard lines as a unit. You've got to wiggle it around a bit, but it will come that way.

When you have the replacement IP installed it WILL need to be timed. The two timing marks alignment will probably get it running, but they are not accurate on a replacement. Get it timed properly.

When you have questions, stop work and ask. It's better and easier in the long run to do that, and take a longer time, than to rush, make a mistake, and screw the pooch.

Good luck, It's a learning experience, and not too hard a job.

 

[TDI]

Thank you,

i gave it a quick read but I cant see the two timing marks instruction, I remember some posts here with good photos of the gears and marks but here is a good write up on timing

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...tment-for-timing-purposes&highlight=IP+timing

My biggest question right now is do I have to have the engine timing gears in a specific position beforei remove the pump?

 

[ironworker40]

Roll the dice on the spare ip pump . Its not that bad to install and will get you running while you have your pump rebuilt. It will also let you know if spare pump is good. Have Mel atConestoga rebuild it, maybe get a baby moose. As far as timing look at the top of the flange on the ip pump, where it bolts to engine. There will be a mark and a corresponding mark on gear tower on engine. If you line these up it will be "static timed". This will get you running until you get your new pump and have it timed with a meter.

 

[gandalf]

Thank you,

i gave it a quick read but I cant see the two timing marks instruction, I remember some posts here with good photos of the gears and marks

No real instructions on the timing marks. They were intended for the initial factory installation only, and are of limited use following that. Each IP is sufficiently different...

Have you found those marks? One is on the forward (toward the front of the truck as the IP is mounted) mounting surface of the IP, and the other is on the gear tower mating surface.

If you line them up you will probably be able to start the engine, after you clear all the air out of the lines, but it will still need proper timing.

Clearing air from the fuel lines. People will give you good instructions when the time comes. Two things I would suggest. Have a good battery charger on hand. You can wear down your batteries. Crank the engine only 15-20 seconds, then let the starter cool for 4-5 minutes. The starter if fighting a lot of compression, working hard. Many people have killed their starter by cranking too long and overheated it.

See the attached picture for the timing marks. You'll notice they are not lined up. The engine is timed, but the marks are only a starting point.

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[TDI]

I may have to roll the dice on the used pump for now. The PO must have pulled this pump, everything at the front of the motor seems put back with about a gallon of gasket maker.

 

[icanfixall]

As posted.. DO NOT REMOVE THE PUMP GEAR HOUSING.. If you do the replacement that way you will be removing the housing, pump and most importantly the gear. Then you have made a big mistake. As for running a spare pump of unknown quality. don't. You have no idea if any dirt in inside it or rust. Running that thru your new injectors will ruin them. That leak is not a press fit on the pump. It has an o ring in there and no way would I recommend you taking it apart. Someplace here we have a nice viedo of a pump that cut down so all the internal parts are clearly shown. Those timing marks really means nothing to a proper timing on this engine. sounds like maybe the other owner has already removed the pump and housing by the rtv you say is everywhere. Thats never a good thing to hear.

 

[TDI]

Thanks ,

You are right, point well taken, no sense in going through this and use that old pump.

If the PO took it off maybe he screwed it up and that's why he sold the truck, I just checked and the RTV material seems to be on the front of teh block not at the pump...but who knows.

 

[Agnem]

A word of caution... if you throw an old pump on there, be sure to spin that pump live WITHOUT any lines attached, just in case dirt is waiting in the outlets ready to go into your new injectors. Honestly though, and probably anybody here will tell you, your best bet is a new Baby Moose or the like to go with your new injectors. It's the best way to be trouble free for a long time.

 

[TDI]

thank you Mel,

I emailed CD already asking them which pump they would recommend for my application / use . I was thinking the baby moose or moose junior???

Truck is stock, 4x4, 4 speed with 100k miles. its not a daily driver, pulls an 8000# trailer several times a month and makes regular dump runs with a fully loaded bed. I just want a pump that will be good for this truck, maybe down the road a new set of bigger injectors but really its a basic work truck.

thanks again

 

[79jasper]

^ Mel/Agnem is Conestoga diesel. Lol
In case you didn't know.

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[TDI]

I know that Mel is CD....one problem we ( I mean I ) have today is that there are too many ways to communicate, text, phone, email and now we can post here and IM and all that stuff.

At times I screw it all up and cant manage to get through on any of them.....this is why I have a rotary phone on my desk and my cell phone in a drawer or on the floor of my truck. I kid you not.

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[79jasper]

Nice. Lol


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